My impression was that you were running the AC on the highway (because of minimal mpg penalty) but not during city driving (because greater mpg hit). My point is that you're paying to be comfortable for X hours (not X miles). It costs the same to be comfortable for an hour of city driving as for an hour of highway driving, so both are worth it if one is worth it.You are correct thats where I get the 5-15 MPGs
This (and other responses) seem somewhat informative but, 1) what's a nHVB (acronyms should be defined)?, and 2) OP is trying to get to what's more eficient (auto or manual) and I dont see a direct recomendation for this here? (closest truely useful ones indicated nothing much matters at hwy speed but any ac is more of a energy consumption when going slow- but again nothing on auto vs manual)Because the hybrid AC system is variable - there is a difference with it's amp draw from the HVB depending on the temp differential your settings are calling for.
Now to how much having your HVB going lower faster will affect your mileage is another matter.
How you drive and opportunities for being in EV may change.
You could have a bunch of areas where you get this long stretch of EV mode, and they are now all cut short because EV mode is shorter due to HVB being used faster on AC.
Then again, you could be on the highway and it matters not.
Auto-mode (you said manual) 1 will still try to get it to set point as fast as possible, just with lower fan speeds - which is actually good for being colder anyway. But you could set that to 77 also.
What will change the response of the AC as to the load applied - is being in Eco mode. Calms that response down a bit, so it's not max amps for ASAP reaching set point.
Since there is no cabin air temp display - your ability to say attempt a 10 F spread between set temp and current temp for some sort of minimal load request can't happen.
Not worth it anyway.
This is good, but I think OP was asking about Auto vs Manual efficiency...My impression was that you were running the AC on the highway (because of minimal mpg penalty) but not during city driving (because greater mpg hit). My point is that you're paying to be comfortable for X hours (not X miles). It costs the same to be comfortable for an hour of city driving as for an hour of highway driving, so both are worth it if one is worth it.
If I was misinterpreting what you're doing, then my apologies, but hopefully the discussion was useful to someone else.
I am good with windows down until 50 MPH when the wind noise becomes bothersome. I don't want the AC to where out prematurely.My impression was that you were running the AC on the highway (because of minimal mpg penalty) but not during city driving (because greater mpg hit). My point is that you're paying to be comfortable for X hours (not X miles). It costs the same to be comfortable for an hour of city driving as for an hour of highway driving, so both are worth it if one is worth it.
If I was misinterpreting what you're doing, then my apologies, but hopefully the discussion was useful to someone else.
HVB - High Voltage Battery - which the AC on hybrid runs from ultimately as a variable 3-phase compressor.This is good, but I think OP was asking about Auto vs Manual efficiency...
That "1" setting blows pretty good. There are times when I wish it was set lower.I want to be comfortable, so I have mine on auto and 1, with the temperature set between 67 and 70. I dont change it much in the winter.
Yep. Windows down buffets the air stream and increases friction.As far a mileage goes, once you get to 50 or so, you are better off with the a/c than having the windows down anyway. I just don't enjoy sweating. When I moved to Mississippi I was told I would get used to the humidity. They lied to me!
I reread the question - actually it sounds confusing like the system hasn't been used in one of the modes to see how it works.This is good, but I think OP was asking about Auto vs Manual efficiency...
From how I understand it the temperature set is always automatic, you set a desired cabin temperature and it tries to maintain it. The auto mode just operates the fan speed and directs the air where it thinks it will be most effective.I don’t use Auto settings at all anymore. My Mustang had a couple of the plenum door motors fail. These are the small motors that open/close the doors in the HVAC system to blend air to achieve the Auto temp setting. And they are not cheap to replace since they’re buried under the IP. I set my AC manually so the motors hardly ever actuate, based on advice from my Ford AC engineer friend.
I would like peoples opinion on what more economical to run the ac in manual on 1 or temp set at 77 on front vent recycling air? Thanks.
[/QUOT if you're typically the only one in the truck then shut down the passenger vents completely, that way you're getting the full thrust of the a/c and not 'wasting it' on the other half of the truck. ME? Here's what I do - I throw the thing on max a/c and drive along happy as a lark and my mpg is about what it is when i don't have the a/c on - about 44 mpg, and it's great. Just set it at your comfort level and enjoy it - you're not saving anything by skimping on this or that or setting it higher than you're comfortable with, in the end even if you're saving 1/10th mpg what's that over one season? About 5 bucks in gas? I love my supercharged a/c - it's the best a/c in any vehicle I have even owned.
I would like peoples opinion on what more economical to run the ac in manual on 1 or temp set at 77 on front vent recycling air? Thanks.
That's exactly how I think it operates.From how I understand it the temperature set is always automatic, you set a desired cabin temperature and it tries to maintain it. The auto mode just operates the fan speed and directs the air where it thinks it will be most effective.
Or am I wrong, and the set temp is what is supposed to come out of the vents no matter what?