Meet the Redesigned "Latch-Safe" Maverick Hood Strut Kit by MRT

[sprubs]

I think I've opened the hood on my mav maybe 5 or 6 times in the past couple of years. once to check oil. a few times just to look around. once to change the oil (the oil has been changed more than once, just not by me). once to add washer fluid.

are you guys checking the oil level a lot? I generally don't do that unless I suspect I'm leaking or burning through it.

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[Fcnrwy]

I think I've opened the hood on my mav maybe 5 or 6 times in the past couple of years. once to check oil. a few times just to look around. once to change the oil (the oil has been changed more than once, just not by me). once to add washer fluid.

are you guys checking the oil level a lot? I generally don't do that unless I suspect I'm leaking or burning through it.

If I open the hood, for no matter what...
I always check the "Fluids"...

Jerry

 

[sprubs]

If I open the hood, for no matter what...
I always check the "Fluids"...

Jerry

yeah, I probably don't check coolant and stuff as often as I should.

 

[JMJB]

Wow ....55 years of driving , probably 50 different vehicles .....NEVER had a " hood issue " .....

 

[JMJB]

I take that back ...my very first car ( '62 Austin Healey ) had a hood latch problem , so I added hood pins ....thought it was cool ...

 

[ChargerRon]

I take that back ...my very first car ( '62 Austin Healey ) had a hood latch problem , so I added hood pins ....thought it was cool ...

​

 

[maccobra]

I think the stuck hood they're talking about, isn't excessive "Latch Pressure" but a LACK of latch pressure.
It pertains to some of the previously offered strut kits. Where there is not enough pressure when you pull the release lever twice, the hood does not pop up. There by necessitating 2 people or the addition of a spring by the front latch. Especially common in cold climates.
One Example from previous thread.

This is the part I used. Eliminated stuck hood and slipped cable. Easy install. The bolt is already there.

 

[ChargerRon]

Why is there a $12.95 handling charge ??
I like these,but without the extra cost !!

 

[Milous]

Why is there a $12.95 handling charge ??
I like these,but without the extra cost !!

"Free Shipping" ?? LOL. Sure, shipping is "Free" but you get nailed with an outrageous $12.95 "handling charge" which of course pretty much covers the shipping. How misleading, and insulting.

 

[Pointyears]

"Free Shipping" ?? LOL. Sure, shipping is "Free" but you get nailed with an outrageous $12.95 "handling charge" which of course pretty much covers the shipping. How misleading, and insulting.

Back in the day it'd be labeled a combined "Shipping and Handling" without the self-congratulatory "free shipping."

 

[TJ2023]

​

Maverick Owners,

If you spend any time here on the forums, you know the "Stuck Hood" threads have become a major point of concern. We’ve seen the photos of binding latches, the stories of release cables popping out, and the "two-person" tricks just to get a hood open after installing aftermarket struts.

At MRT, we don't just "make parts"—we engineer solutions. We followed the discussions here closely, and we weren't satisfied with just providing a "fix" for existing customers. We wanted to eliminate the frustration entirely.

The Standard: Structural Integrity & Sturdy Design
Sturdy, no-drill, and structurally secure mounting points have always been the hallmark of MRT Hood Strut Kits. While many designs on the market rely on thin-gauge brackets or mounting points that put lateral stress on the hood hinges, our kit is built for structural integrity.

Zero-Mod / Zero-Drill: True to the MRT name, this is a 100% bolt-on install using factory hardware locations. There is no drilling into your inner fenders and no permanent modifications to your truck.

Structurally Secure Mounting: We utilize the factory hinges to ensure the pressure is handled by the truck's frame. This robust foundation ensures the hood stays exactly where it was designed to be, preventing the "hood shift" that leads to stuck hoods.

The Evolution: What’s New?
While our kits have always been sturdy, we have "retweaked" this design specifically for the Maverick’s unique dual-latch geometry.

Anti-Bind Geometry: We refined the mounting angles to eliminate the lateral "push" that causes the secondary latch to jam.

Cable Harmony: We have designed this kit to ensure your release cable stays in place. By maintaining perfect alignment and using structurally secure points, we eliminate the shifting that causes the factory release cable to pop out of its assembly.

Tuned Gas Pressure: We’ve optimized the strut valving specifically for the weight of the Maverick hood.

The Result: No More Stuck Hoods
The result is a practical engine bay upgrade that works flawlessly every single time you pull the release lever. By prioritizing structural integrity and secure mounting, we’ve eliminated the binding and bowing issues that plague other designs.

Designed, Engineered, and Manufactured right here in Plymouth, Michigan.


Starting At: $149.99
Our Price w/ Options: $99.99

2022+ Ford Maverick No Drill Hood Struts - $99.99

We’ll be hanging out in the thread to answer any technical questions you have. We’re proud of this one and can’t wait to get it under your hoods!

— The MRT Team

Will you swap out with the old ones? I uninstalled mine long ago because of this very issue.

 

[TJ2023]

Solution in search of a problem.

Nope, it was definitely a problem that needed a solution.

 

[thev8man]

​

Maverick Owners,

If you spend any time here on the forums, you know the "Stuck Hood" threads have become a major point of concern. We’ve seen the photos of binding latches, the stories of release cables popping out, and the "two-person" tricks just to get a hood open after installing aftermarket struts.

At MRT, we don't just "make parts"—we engineer solutions. We followed the discussions here closely, and we weren't satisfied with just providing a "fix" for existing customers. We wanted to eliminate the frustration entirely.

The Standard: Structural Integrity & Sturdy Design
Sturdy, no-drill, and structurally secure mounting points have always been the hallmark of MRT Hood Strut Kits. While many designs on the market rely on thin-gauge brackets or mounting points that put lateral stress on the hood hinges, our kit is built for structural integrity.

Zero-Mod / Zero-Drill: True to the MRT name, this is a 100% bolt-on install using factory hardware locations. There is no drilling into your inner fenders and no permanent modifications to your truck.

Structurally Secure Mounting: We utilize the factory hinges to ensure the pressure is handled by the truck's frame. This robust foundation ensures the hood stays exactly where it was designed to be, preventing the "hood shift" that leads to stuck hoods.

The Evolution: What’s New?
While our kits have always been sturdy, we have "retweaked" this design specifically for the Maverick’s unique dual-latch geometry.

Anti-Bind Geometry: We refined the mounting angles to eliminate the lateral "push" that causes the secondary latch to jam.

Cable Harmony: We have designed this kit to ensure your release cable stays in place. By maintaining perfect alignment and using structurally secure points, we eliminate the shifting that causes the factory release cable to pop out of its assembly.

Tuned Gas Pressure: We’ve optimized the strut valving specifically for the weight of the Maverick hood.

The Result: No More Stuck Hoods
The result is a practical engine bay upgrade that works flawlessly every single time you pull the release lever. By prioritizing structural integrity and secure mounting, we’ve eliminated the binding and bowing issues that plague other designs.

Designed, Engineered, and Manufactured right here in Plymouth, Michigan.


Starting At: $149.99
Our Price w/ Options: $99.99

2022+ Ford Maverick No Drill Hood Struts - $99.99

We’ll be hanging out in the thread to answer any technical questions you have. We’re proud of this one and can’t wait to get it under your hoods!

— The MRT Team

Booyah

 

[Tall Hobbit]

Somewhat late to the party:

Made the purchase around the time of this thread but finding free time on a calm day to do the install is not as easy as it sounds.

I'm a doofus, so at the first opportunity I couldn't make sense of the brackets I'd received compared to the v 1.0 design, and seeing the one pic of MRT's in this thread showing the install of the redesigned ones... I got thoroughly mixed up and bailed on the install -until today. See pics if you get similarly confused:

What I've learned in the process:

• the redesign moves the ball joints for the struts pretty far forward compared to the prior design, out away from the hinge
• brackets go in with the joint as far forward as can be, keeping r/l on the passenger/driver side accordingly even if it's tempting to swap them -MRT knows what they're doing
• 10mm socket for fender bolts, using an 11mm box wrench to hold the new nut underneath on the driver's side; 13mm socket for hood bolts. Using the prop one last time, hood did not shift when undoing on driver's side, but sure did on passenger side
• despite what the video shows, there doesn't seem to be any way or point to having the driver's side fender bracket 'clear' the fender nut. Seems like a correct install clears the bolt and rests below the nut just as on the passenger side -trying to confirm this with MRT now (update: confirmed correct as shown)
• with struts in place the hood opens MUCH shorter than it did with the prop -about 4" if not more. Not for the first time in my life, Tall Hobbit wishes he was Short Hobbit.

Hopefully this helps anyone similarly confused with this kit. My Oxford White does the best possible job contrasting the brackets from factory parts under the hood.

edit: driver's side fender bracket/nut

 

[Dave O]

Somewhat late to the party:

Made the purchase around the time of this thread but finding free time on a calm day to do the install is not as easy as it sounds.

I'm a doofus, so at the first opportunity I couldn't make sense of the brackets I'd received compared to the v 1.0 design, and seeing the one pic of MRT's in this thread showing the install of the redesigned ones... I got thoroughly mixed up and bailed on the install -until today. See pics if you get similarly confused:

What I've learned in the process:

• the redesign moves the ball joints for the struts pretty far forward compared to the prior design, out away from the hinge
• brackets go in with the joint as far forward as can be, keeping r/l on the passenger/driver side accordingly even if it's tempting to swap them -MRT knows what they're doing
• 10mm socket for fender bolts, using an 11mm box wrench to hold the new nut underneath on the driver's side; 13mm socket for hood bolts. Using the prop one last time, hood did not shift when undoing on driver's side, but sure did on passenger side
• despite what the video shows, there doesn't seem to be any way or point to having the driver's side fender bracket 'clear' the fender nut. Seems like a correct install clears the bolt and rests below the nut just as on the passenger side -trying to confirm this with MRT now
• with struts in place the hood opens MUCH shorter than it did with the prop -about 4" if not more. Not for the first time in my life, Tall Hobbit wishes he was Short Hobbit.

Hopefully this helps anyone similarly confused with this kit. My Oxford White does the best possible job contrasting the brackets from factory parts under the hood.

Hood OpenIng height is probably the number one reason I went with the Redline Tuning struts they actually increase the opening height between 3” - 4” over the OEM hood prop.

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