Premature rear brake rotor wear

[HeyBales]

Yes to light braking in past. I had more than one friend over years who would drive with foot on brake pedal supposedly not pressing it until needed. They invariably need brake work in 1/3 +/- % time of the expected frequency.

Oh yeah I hate seeing that. Besides the brake light being on constantly.

Pretty sure those are the people that usually if some critical driving situation arises they are pushing into both gas and brake at the same time - and better hope the foot doesn't slip off the brake pedal!

No, when I said lightly braking, I mean when it's time to brake - I've never felt a need to rush on to the next red light, or the left turner in lane, ect, that required hard braking.
I'm looking far enough in advance I can engine coast enough that by the time I need to brake - it's light braking.
I needed the Brake coach on the Maverick no time at all - I was already doing the best way possible.

That's the type of braking you'll find comments on wearing the rear brakes down more.

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[HeyBales]

I’m curious if with a 25 hybrid AWD that in AWD, whether the regen braking works on all wheels or if it only works to same as the FWD hybrids.

Since Regen is from the traction motor.
And power is mainly only sent to the rear as needed, the coupling for the TM resistance would be minimal for the rear.
I guess some drive modes could change that.
Would be interesting to see changes of regen amount for those extra AWD modes.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Appears it could be a strong result of slippery mode.

Normal mode braking within the regen area also causes no brake pressure.
But when you get slow enough for it to occur - the axles that get the most pressure are different than in Slippery mode.
This was pretty consistent among the stops, and as the pressure was increased the difference remained.
Again - only talking from about 5mph to stopped.

Now - mid-drive braking at 35 mph hard enough to grab pads, not really the same thing.
Still not talking really hard here just enough to go past regen, only down to 28 mph while no one happened to be behind me. Here's a snippet, close enough pressure, though perhaps swapping from front to rear.
I'll for sure include this in my drive mode braking tests. Still trying to figure out how to make the differences due to drive mappings stand out.

Also - here's why I know it's laggy from the ABS to the display or log file.
Slowdown braking about 13 mph the front brakes do get pressure while the back get nothing.
Around 8 the rear's are brought in.
But you can see from the diagonal effect the millisecond delay.
The fronts still came on first in Normal mode. The backs in Slippery mode, with a difference in pressure.

Slippery mode brake rear first/enough to hold rear of truck back to prevent rear from "slipping" to prevent spinning.

 

[HeyBales]

Awesome data, thanks so much. Good to know that the regen green zone achieved by pressing the brake pedal isn't actually riding the brakes, even in slippery mode.

Any chance you could collect some data using the L button to "brake"? My impression is that hitting the L button with your foot off the accelerator and off the brake performs the equivalent of precisely pressing the brake pedal to maximize either regen or engine braking (depending on the state of the hybrid battery charge) without actually using the brakes.

The left dial gauge seems to indicate that's what it's doing, as it will pin the needle right at the edge of the green zone... but given our brake wear, and the amount I use that L button to slow down (quite often), I'm now skeptical.

BTW, it seems you have to be going above ~10-15mph for the L button to do what I'm describing.

So for the braking aspect while using Low in Normal mode. Used on my drive into work.

When you do get the pads in that last 5-10 mph stopping - just even pressure, like Normal. But regen area is indeed all regen, it only appears to pin the needle on the line.

Now - max regen in Low mode with foot off Go pedal? Perhaps no.
That's 145 A max.
I've seen close in Normal mode at decent speed and going past regen into pads, so getting close to max regen then. 1mm on the brakes, didn't have the pressure logged for this, but EV Coach said beyond regen.

For Low mode, this is what was gotten taking foot off Go pedal at 36 mph - 119.36 Amps, and it appeared to pin the needle.
Snippet of final moments off and back on APP. Which may have slight reading delay.

A tad more Amps going a tad faster, so perhaps max can be hit at higher speeds/momentum.
Here is snippet of highest I hit on regen, but it appears to back off as speed decreases.
Might have been slight decline too increasing momentum.

 

[HeyBales]

Wanted to show a little more of the Slippery mode rear brake engagement, after I adjusted the columns for the fact they are each 1 entry delayed extra for each wheel.
The entries where I'm just sitting with equal pressures indicate I got the adjustment right.

So this is snippet of final 6 mph for a bit is each time. Not huge amount of extra pressure difference to the rear.
Not sure what's going on with LF brake.

Just a few showing it does equalize finally while waiting at light, and matches exactly finally.
Guessing the booster/ABS just isn't that exact on where the pressure goes.

While moving and regen not enough, so into the pads, and at this point, starting to release the brake pedal. Again not much extra pressure to the rear, but unlike Normal mode, fronts not engaged first.

So I'm tending to believe, that if your use of Slippery mode is only digging into the pads on the final stop 5mph and less - you'd have to have a whole lot of stops, then those could add up to really wearing out the rear more than others.

And if you are like me trying to use Slippery, and frequently misjudging the distance and the stopping power, and not great at fine tuning the pedal on the bottom end of regen and constantly slipping into the pads - then ya, probably even faster wear on the rear, especially if just barely slipping into the pads.
I'm glad I don't use Slippery very often.
Or remember to change modes coming off the highway. Actually, no I don't remember often, that's the problem.

I'll just keep fine tuning my Go pedal action to remove regen to coast better than Slippery mode!

 

[Pure Michigan]

I noticed this morning that both rear brake rotors are wearing, look almost look like metal to metal west but they aren't making noise. I have only 8000 miles on it. Has anyone else experienced premature brake wear?

My 2922 Maverick hybrid has 28000 miles and the Dealer says the rear brakes will need replacing soon. Are there after market rotors and pads that last longer?

 

[Backdoctor]

Living in Ontario, and having seen this in multiple family vehicles, rusting of the rear rotors is largely from disuse, ie not applying sufficient pedal force to heat the rotors adequately to remove moisture. I advise my kids to “brake hard” coming off the highway at least 1 a week or so. This removes the built up corrosion and extends to life of the rotors. With the maverick, another trick would be to drive in reverse and brake. The regen is not involved in rear direction. The final method is when using the Mav as a toad (towed vehicle). I use the Brake Buddy and it applies the brakes while the vehicle is off. No regen then either. And my rotors looked great on my old 2023 hybrid and the same for my 2025…

 

[Whutmeow]

We just had our inspection 4 yr old 16,000 miles and the back rotors have marks and we were told its at 50% so we didn't pass and its $700 for new rotors. The guy even said it was weird for a truck with so little miles and it must've been a rock. I'm not a happy camper at the moment.

 

[Finnster]

We just had our inspection 4 yr old 16,000 miles and the back rotors have marks and we were told its at 50% so we didn't pass and its $700 for new rotors. The guy even said it was weird for a truck with so little miles and it must've been a rock. I'm not a happy camper at the moment.

Where and how do you store the Maverick when not driving the 4K/year?

 

[Master Blaster]

We just had our inspection 4 yr old 16,000 miles and the back rotors have marks and we were told its at 50% so we didn't pass and its $700 for new rotors. The guy even said it was weird for a truck with so little miles and it must've been a rock. I'm not a happy camper at the moment.

What moron decides that 50% pad is not capable of stopping the vehicle? You're getting taken for a ride.

Having said that, 50% wear in 16k miles is either insanely poor driving or a stuck piston. You should be expecting 75k life on the EcoBoost and 150k on the Hybrid pads.

Aftermarket rotors are considerably cheaper and better quality than the OEM ones. Figure on $75 per rotor and about the same for pads.

 

[Glen Baker LLC]

I checked my brake pads yesterday.
The fronts have easily 50% more material than the rears do. I tried but couldn't get a good picture of the difference. I expect to have to replace my rear brakes before 50,000 miles. That's on a hybrid.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I checked my brake pads yesterday.
The fronts have easily 50% more material than the rears do. I tried but couldn't get a good picture of the difference. I expect to have to replace my rear brakes before 50,000 miles. That's on a hybrid.

Check original pad material thickness for difference?

 

[Mavster Mechanic]

Yes.

I was going to say, front and rear rotors are different, so front and rear pads were probably different from the factory.

 

[Glen Baker LLC]

Check original pad material thickness for difference?

That makes sense now.
Thank you.

 

[Pure Michigan]

My 2922 Maverick hybrid has 28000 miles and the Dealer says the rear brakes will need replacing soon. Are there after market rotors and pads that last longer?

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