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Premature rear brake rotor wear

Master Blaster

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The rears are supposed to engage before the fronts. Are you riding the brakes and causing the issue?
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I'm trying to figure out what the issue is here. Rotors look rusty after sitting in the rain and definitely after salt. They look fine after driving for 5 minutes. You know your rotors are worn by measuring them, not by looking at them. Metal to metal has nothing to do with rotors and everything to do with pads. Take the wheels off, look at the pads and see if they are worn to the wear markers (I assume new car have these). Yeah, this is hard if you have to use the damned scissor jack, sorry. I agree with someone who posted that the only logical cause of this (if it really is a problem) is a failure of something.
 

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I noticed this morning that both rear brake rotors are wearing, look almost look like metal to metal west but they aren't making noise. I have only 8000 miles on it. Has anyone else experienced premature brake wear?
Same issue 7k miles....Bringing it in next week Hybid brakes suck ...too touchy not like my Accord hybrid brakers....
 

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We just had to have the rear rotors (only -- fronts were OK) replaced at the 30K service. (31,000 miles). The pads were worn as well, but still some left. They hadn't been replaced ever. What I don't get is how and why the rotor is wearing -- aren't the pads softer and easier / cheaper to replace by design? I've never seen a rotor wear at the same pace as the pads on any vehicle.

If it matters, it's a hybrid, we always drive slippery mode, and try to max out regen braking. Probably 70%/30% highway / city. What gives? Is it a slippery mode thing?
 

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We just had to have the rear rotors (only -- fronts were OK) replaced at the 30K service. (31,000 miles). The pads were worn as well, but still some left. They hadn't been replaced ever. What I don't get is how and why the rotor is wearing -- aren't the pads softer and easier / cheaper to replace by design? I've never seen a rotor wear at the same pace as the pads on any vehicle.

If it matters, it's a hybrid, we always drive slippery mode, and try to max out regen braking. Probably 70%/30% highway / city. What gives? Is it a slippery mode thing?
Wow just reading this thread as this is the first I've heard about the rear brakes wearing out quickly on the Maverick. I was under the assumption that the hybrid pads and rotors tend to last a real long time but I guess now I'm not so sure. We have a 2023 Escape Hybrid AWD with about 33K on it and AFAIK the pads and rotors are fine but it's due for an oil change coming up so I'll see if they say anything.

So I assume you had to pay out of picket to have the rear rotors replaced? If so may I ask how much they charged for it?
 

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MakinDoForNow

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We just had to have the rear rotors (only -- fronts were OK) replaced at the 30K service. (31,000 miles). The pads were worn as well, but still some left. They hadn't been replaced ever. What I don't get is how and why the rotor is wearing -- aren't the pads softer and easier / cheaper to replace by design? I've never seen a rotor wear at the same pace as the pads on any vehicle.

If it matters, it's a hybrid, we always drive slippery mode, and try to max out regen braking. Probably 70%/30% highway / city. What gives? Is it a slippery mode thing?
I drive hybrid a lot in slippery mode and have wondered if in a front wheel drive the rear brakes are applied more frequently in slippery. I have 39,000 miles on mine and pads look fine but haven't had them measured. Rotors look fine also. Do not concentrate on Regen maximizing on mine. You might get more slippery mode braking if rolling radius of rear wheels are different the faster wheel may cause braking more often. Uneven tread wear???? Would expect only one side though??
 

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Around $880? Their computer system was down so no itemized bill. The total cost was $959.82, including pads, oil change, 30k service, the rotation, inspection, tax, etc..

As usual they tried to upsell a piston valve carbon treatment or some nonsense totally inappropriate for the hybrid. The right rotor was more worn than the left, but both needed to be replaced. Original tires and wheels with about 25% tread remaining, even wear.

Other driving habits of note: I'll sometimes drop into neutral and pick up some speed on a downhill., and often I'll max regen brake by popping it into L when rolling to a stop with long runway and no one behind me.

In neither my, nor my wife's experience owning vehicles for the last 40 years or so have either of us ever had to replace rotors... And most of those had more than 50k miles when we started driving them. Mostly standards, so lots of engine braking. This is the first new vehicle either of us has owned.

The whole thing is just odd. Either I don't understand how the rear brakes integrate into the hybrid system, or it's not working as it should.
 

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I drive hybrid a lot in slippery mode and have wondered if in a front wheel drive the rear brakes are applied more frequently in slippery. I have 39,000 miles on mine and pads look fine but haven't had them measured. Rotors look fine also. Do not concentrate on Regen maximizing on mine. You might get more slippery mode braking if rolling radius of rear wheels are different the faster wheel may cause braking more often. Uneven tread wear???? Would expect only one side though??
It would be understandable with slippery conditions to attempt not to throw so much weight to the front driving tires causing a slip, on slight braking applications.

ETA: Found this in service manual:
The EBD system helps maintain vehicle control by keeping a balanced braking condition between the front and rear wheels.
The selectable drive mode system helps maintain vehicle traction by adapting the responses of the engine, transmission, AWD system, the EPAS system, the ABS and the stability control system to the demands of the terrain.



Perhaps this is a case of Ford not applying it wisely?

I grab the pads much more in slippery because I find it hard to regulate in the final 15-25% of the regen range for faster stops that always seem to come up frequently.
It just means I'm using it in wrong driving scenario - but I attempted on highway drive today again - still had to grab the brakes too much for lane switchers and lines of sudden brakers.

This whole discussion is ringing a bell from an article years ago.
ETA: It appears this started to come up years ago, and I'm reminded I noticed it because I'm generally a light braker, and the new systems could cause the rears to be used more, which is what I noticed with the Rav4, not the shift of weight I was used to.

With the Maverick having a calibrated rear brake set distance due to the EPB, and regen causing a bunch of calm braking - perhaps it shouldn't be surprising.
 
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HeyBales

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We just had to have the rear rotors (only -- fronts were OK) replaced at the 30K service. (31,000 miles). The pads were worn as well, but still some left. They hadn't been replaced ever. What I don't get is how and why the rotor is wearing -- aren't the pads softer and easier / cheaper to replace by design? I've never seen a rotor wear at the same pace as the pads on any vehicle.

If it matters, it's a hybrid, we always drive slippery mode, and try to max out regen braking. Probably 70%/30% highway / city. What gives? Is it a slippery mode thing?
Shouldn't be if truly in regen.
Unless the system adds some rear pad action just in case while reporting you are in regen.

I'm going to see if there are any scan tool PIDS related to the amount of brake actuation, something in the ABS system.

I've gathered data logs on coast down regen differences, and accelerations, and was trying to figure out something for braking besides just the brake pedal height in mm's. This might just be what could be interesting. Just unsure how to test differences to braking pressure.
 

jdavidr

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It would be very cool to see that scan data and sort out what is going on. To be clear, we drive in slippery mode to optimize fuel efficiency and coasting, but not in actual slippery conditions.

Breaking is generally gentle, with the coach reporting 100% energy regenerated probably 3/4 of all stops, and rarely below 80%.
 
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MakinDoForNow

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It would be understandable with slippery conditions to attempt not to throw so much weight to the front driving tires causing a slip, on slight braking applications.

ETA: Found this in service manual:
The EBD system helps maintain vehicle control by keeping a balanced braking condition between the front and rear wheels.
The selectable drive mode system helps maintain vehicle traction by adapting the responses of the engine, transmission, AWD system, the EPAS system, the ABS and the stability control system to the demands of the terrain.



Perhaps this is a case of Ford not applying it wisely?

I grab the pads much more in slippery because I find it hard to regulate in the final 15-25% of the regen range for faster stops that always seem to come up frequently.
It just means I'm using it in wrong driving scenario - but I attempted on highway drive today again - still had to grab the brakes too much for lane switchers and lines of sudden brakers.

This whole discussion is ringing a bell from an article years ago.
ETA: It appears this started to come up years ago, and I'm reminded I noticed it because I'm generally a light braker, and the new systems could cause the rears to be used more, which is what I noticed with the Rav4, not the shift of weight I was used to.

With the Maverick having a calibrated rear brake set distance due to the EPB, and regen causing a bunch of calm braking - perhaps it shouldn't be surprising.
Consider in slippery mode in hybrid FWD with steering turned some not necessarily significant amount but if the rear wheels are not within a certain amount of rpm variance, when would programmer determine to brake either one or both of rear wheels to keep the rear of truck "behind" the front. He doesn't have AWD to control "slippage". He has to balance rpm of 4 wheels adjusted for direction, different tire pressures, possibly even different tread wear. I notice that the low tire pressure light doesn't come on until somewhere near 8 psi which would throw off that wheels rpm = "how does that affect slippery mode activity?". (I was programmer for a time with real time interrupt driven routines on single processor devices. Which sensor gets taken care of and which sensors are less important and can be ignored if something more important is happening. Only have milliseconds for each interrupt.).
 

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. . .
Other driving habits of note: I'll sometimes drop into neutral and pick up some speed on a downhill., and often I'll max regen brake by popping it into L when rolling to a stop with long runway and no one behind me.
. . .
Why are you putting it into neutral? That's what you commonly did on an old gas-only drivetrain, but it defeats the purpose of regen on a hybrid. Just drive it and let the computers do their thing.
 

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Why are you putting it into neutral? That's what you commonly did on an old gas-only drivetrain, but it defeats the purpose of regen on a hybrid. Just drive it and let the computers do their thing.
He gets 100% momentum saved in increased speed and doesn't "waste" conversion losses and storage losses in/out of HVB. I have one way home that I can neutral the last 2.6 miles.
 

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Correct. And if the hybrid battery is already fully charged, (you know, as charged as it gets per AATorqe monitoring) then there's no regen, just engine braking.

The more I think about it, regen braking in slippery mode, and especially max'ing out engine braking using the L button must engage the rear brakes.

I almost never touch my foot to the brake pedal at a speed above 10mph. But even that wouldn't explain why the rotors have worn as fast as the pads. That just makes no sense to me.
 

MakinDoForNow

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Correct. And if the hybrid battery is already fully charged, (you know, as charged as it gets per AATorqe monitoring) then there's no regen, just engine braking.

The more I think about it, regen braking in slippery mode, and especially max'ing out engine braking using the L button must engage the rear brakes.

I almost never touch my foot to the brake pedal at a speed above 10mph. But even that wouldn't explain why the rotors have worn as fast as the pads. That just makes no sense to me.
There have been not many but several reporting rear brake wear usually both, it seems. There is most likely some condition or combination of things which keep very slight pressure on rear brake pads and rotors. Could be just a bad, wet, rusty pin in a harness. Rusty rotors are quite common. I will brake hard for one to three time I drive my hybrid Maverick after a rain, who knows if it helps but sometimes the brakes grab. Cheap truck or expensive truck I would certainly expect rust proof rotors. Hell they could Lazer print 3 molecular thick coating on rotors of Silicon Carbide (almost as hard as diamond, probably eater of brake pads). It's sometimes hard to get search results but try several "rear rotor wear" combinations, I will, I think.
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