Burning Question Still Burns — Maverick 12v. Battery

[MakinDoForNow]

No, I leave it in the vehicle. Is that an issue? Why would it keep clicking after that?

I believe that if the fob remains stationary for one full minute communication with fob ceases until door is opened or unlocked with key pad or fob. If truck is double locked with keypad, door ridges, or fob the delay off items are turned off within 2 seconds EXCEPT the front cigarette style power point and 12v at rear of truck which will remain powered up if anything is on and plugged in for up to 90 minutes or the 12volt drops below 12.1 volts. If you are moving near the truck while carrying the fob the truck may start the get ready to drive process so it's a good idea to double lock the truck even in your garage so it will not watch the fob. Ford does say to not leave fob in truck doesn't say why but may be only for anti theft protection but who knows what may work differently.

Sponsored

 

[Master Blaster]

No, I leave it in the vehicle. Is that an issue? Why would it keep clicking after that?

That would definitely cause battery usage. The vehicle knows that the fob is inside, gets ready and prepares to be started. And that's aside from the obvious car theft problem that you have at your place. Put the fob in a tin can with a tin lid where you take your coat and shoes off and see how much it decreases the problem.

 

[Dad]

I think that the 12v battery problem (apparently only for quite a few of us) is the wrong battery complicated by one or possibly several failures of different items. I expect the 25 fix to include a new battery plus reprogramming to help dealers diagnose and fix issues. The 2025 has the new battery.....plus ???

You're probably correct. I'm thinking Ford underestimated the demands the hybrid put on their cost cutting OEM battery.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

You're probably correct. I'm thinking Ford underestimated the demands the hybrid put on their cost cutting OEM battery.

I feel like the size requirement for the Maverick am was one not made. Was shorter than standard auto batteries and a higher amp hour rating than sports batteries most likely needing new equipment by battery manufacturers. A new size might require a 2 year lead time to set up a 25k-50k per month production line. It was over a year before retail production of 225/60/R18 tires were available (they were available in 215 auto and 235 light truck sizes).

 

[22XLThybrid]

I have the original flooded battery from a April 22 delivery hybrid. I found that when I store it for a week it goes into preservation mode. Now that I'm using it a lot, I tried something which worked 100%. It's parked out front of my house so my keys are probably about 15 ft away all the time. The house is really close to the road. And I noticed this truck seems to react if you have the keys in your pocket like pre-condituinning. Something. I bought a small Faraday box on Amazon for 10 bucks. This is a box that blocks signals from your remote. Magically, I've never had a problem since I started using that box with using the truck once a day or every other day parked out front. Without the box it'll come up pretty often. I don't know if that's just a random thing that's happening but maybe it's a thing... Also, I've never had to jump this truck even when it did go into preservation mode.

I have a 2025 Maverick on order, with a February build date.

The more I've read through this forum, the more I consider the 12 volt battery problems a dealbreaker for me. Unless the ’25s have a fix for the problem, I'm considering bailing out of the deal.

I was happy to hear that the ’25s are now supplied with an AGM battery. But is there any change to the BMS? Does there need to be? Has Ford really addressed this for 2025?

I went to the Auto Show at the San Diego Convention Center today. Ford was there, and perhaps a knowledgeable Ford rep could enlighten me about the ’25s without having to mention past battery sins, with a "here's what's new regarding the electrical system...".

The show was large and well attended. There was a ’24 Maverick XLT hybrid (which was mobbed; people crawling all over it), and a ’25 Lobo, locked up tight and unattended.

I snagged a guy with a Ford name badge. Told him I had a question about the Mav electrical system. Was he able to answer that? He said in fact every "Ford" person walking around was just a "paid demonstrator," not a Ford employee. After further discussion, I realized the most I would get from him was the range of available colors and ballpark prices.

My "demonstrator" called in another guy, "he's our best man," I was told. The new guy had never heard of the Maverick battery problem, so he said. So while it was nice to look at the shiny objects on the convention center floor, as a fact-finding tour it was a total nothingburger.

The burning battery question still burns. I have no idea if I'll get an answer, or in fact, if I'll end up purchasing the vehicle when it arrives.

 

[inline_five]

That would definitely cause battery usage. The vehicle knows that the fob is inside, gets ready and prepares to be started. And that's aside from the obvious car theft problem that you have at your place. Put the fob in a tin can with a tin lid where you take your coat and shoes off and see how much it decreases the problem.

I park in my garage so theft isn't an issue. I also keep a charger on it. I'm going to remove the key and keep it in a faraday bag and unhook the charger and see if it holds battery charge.

 

[HeyBales]

My dealer did not really know what the problem was or how to fix it. Finally they said, it is a computer problem that Ford will fix in 2025. Pretty weak tea for me.

Your case sounds exactly like the issue of a dealership passing the buck on a parasitic drain they could have tried to track down, but because of info they had on another matter decided not to.

The SSM doesn't indicate it's a daily parasitic drain - so you likely had a different problem they should have dealt with.

But the time spent tracking that down - they were probably concerned submitting that for warranty work might not fly since something they had said a battery issue would be addressed.

Of course if this is the only nearby dealership to use, then not worth it perhaps even under the best of situations.

 

[HeyBales]

I have the original flooded battery from a April 22 delivery hybrid. I found that when I store it for a week it goes into preservation mode. Now that I'm using it a lot, I tried something which worked 100%. It's parked out front of my house so my keys are probably about 15 ft away all the time. The house is really close to the road. And I noticed this truck seems to react if you have the keys in your pocket like pre-condituinning. Something. I bought a small Faraday box on Amazon for 10 bucks. This is a box that blocks signals from your remote. Magically, I've never had a problem since I started using that box with using the truck once a day or every other day parked out front. Without the box it'll come up pretty often. I don't know if that's just a random thing that's happening but maybe it's a thing... Also, I've never had to jump this truck even when it did go into preservation mode.

Well, the sleep mode, and prior battery saving actions, are specifically to leave enough juice to start the truck.

I've tested a couple times the whole non-keyless entry fob idea (which doesn't send a signal unless a button is pressed), at the 90 min time that a healthy battery truck may keep systems up.
I didn't listen for when the clicking stopped, but nothing clicked from 80 to 100 min.
The radio/antenna system listening for the remote unlock would of course stay up, so no need to bring something back online there with a relay.

My son brings keyfob out from the abouts 50 ft it was resting in house sleeping (they do go to sleep), and there was no clicking going on as it approached. I'm sitting there already.
This was not extreme temps hot or cold, so unknown if that might be kicking on/off some systems. But then with fob unlock button, driver's door only, you can hear the clicks going off.

 

[Master Blaster]

I park in my garage so theft isn't an issue. I also keep a charger on it. I'm going to remove the key and keep it in a faraday bag and unhook the charger and see if it holds battery charge.

So the probnlem now is that your battery is reasonably damaged due to sulphation. It is unclear how much charge it actually holds any more. You might need a new battery first...

 

[inline_five]

So the probnlem now is that your battery is reasonably damaged due to sulphation. It is unclear how much charge it actually holds any more. You might need a new battery first...

I'm going to get it checked. But I've had it on a charger pretty much from day 0 since bring it home. Super annoying as I've really babied it.

 

[dochawk]

What I've observed as the common factor in battery problem threads both here and in the F-150 forum is that replacing the battery with a non-Motorcraft AGM usually solves the problem.

Also, most folks doing this put in the next size up, too.

 

[22XLThybrid]

I've heard the clicking in all different scenarios. The one that annoys me the most is when I have the key out of the ignition and just sitting in the car working on a laptop. Everything with the car is shut off and you can still here something random clicking from front maybe transmission? Sounds too deep for a relay. Or your cleaning out the truck and the doors are open key in pocket clicking... all the time. It's like why is is this doing this... Has to cause some kind of battery drain. I tend to work in the house about 15 feet from truck with key in pocket. I assume it was clicking then too. Since sticking the fobs in a faraday box everytime I come in and haven't had the low power warning once and it's the original almost 3-year old battery that was doing it all the time.

Well, the sleep mode, and prior battery saving actions, are specifically to leave enough juice to start the truck.

I've tested a couple times the whole non-keyless entry fob idea (which doesn't send a signal unless a button is pressed), at the 90 min time that a healthy battery truck may keep systems up.
I didn't listen for when the clicking stopped, but nothing clicked from 80 to 100 min.
The radio/antenna system listening for the remote unlock would of course stay up, so no need to bring something back online there with a relay.

My son brings keyfob out from the abouts 50 ft it was resting in house sleeping (they do go to sleep), and there was no clicking going on as it approached. I'm sitting there already.
This was not extreme temps hot or cold, so unknown if that might be kicking on/off some systems. But then with fob unlock button, driver's door only, you can hear the clicks going off.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I'm going to get it checked. But I've had it on a charger pretty much from day 0 since bring it home. Super annoying as I've really babied it.

The charger has to be a multi phase maintainer with sulfate and stratification treatments just charging is not enough.

Sponsored