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Orientation of Add-a-Tap on Fuse 3 and Fuse 6 (Accessory / Ignition Only Power) [Spoiler: It's All Good]

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clavicus

clavicus

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I noticed this today while trying to set mine up too. In OP's post the setup is all bent and forced in. How do these extensions work? Isn't that like adding 3 fuses if you tap into one?
Yeah I didn't try fuse 6 myself, it seemed all cattywampus in others’ pictures. I used a Micro3 fuse in #1-2 for my dashcam ignition only power.
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Yeah I didn't try fuse 6 myself, it seemed all cattywampus in others’ pictures. I used a Micro3 fuse in #1-2 for my dashcam ignition only power.
Gotcha. I have a Viofo that is running both constant and acc for parking mode, so I need to tap into two fuses. I think the fuse extension has the first fuse at the panel and the secondary would be the extension portion? So I would need to find a single fuse splice? I'm just curious how that would work and what specific cable I would need in addition to the extension.
 
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I noticed this today while trying to set mine up too. In OP's post the setup is all bent and forced in. How do these extensions work? Isn't that like adding 3 fuses if you tap into one?
I haven’t seen these fuse taps like this before. I could be wrong, but it looks like this will be putting BOTH the original system load and your new load on the same fuse as it’s shown in that picture. Another fuse wired off of that tap would only make sense if it was LESS than the original fuse. 10 amps is too large if you’re using 16 or 18ga wire methinks. I’m not sure about that you might want to get more opinions. The fuse rating is meant to be sized correctly for the wire gauge, to protect the wires from overheating and melting.
 

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If you use fuse 1/2, it doesn't matter because they aren't used in the truck anyways.
 

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Please correct me if I messed up the terms or any information.

I was curious which of the Fuse 3 and Fuse 6 legs were line vs. load, as this can impact the isolation of the original system fuse from the added fuse when using a fuse tap. Since these Fuse 3 and Fuse 6 are both adjacent to some large plastic obstacles, there is only one orientation you can use a fuse tap in both of these cases.

It turns out, whether by design or happy coincidence, both fuse tap orientations are "correct". Fuse 3 bottom leg is line, and Fuse 6 top leg is line.

Video for the documentation.





Correct.jpg



Incorrect.jpg



Fuse 3 Tapped Photo - edited.jpg



Fuse 6 correct.jpg
Thanks for this!
 

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Does fuse 1/2 only have power when the ignition key is on and truck is running?

Will two separate fuse taps work in both fuse 1/2 and 3 at the same time? It looks like they need to be installed in the same direction, meaning with the fuse tap wire pointing upward.

Thanks for the help!
 

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I haven’t seen these fuse taps like this before. I could be wrong, but it looks like this will be putting BOTH the original system load and your new load on the same fuse as it’s shown in that picture. Another fuse wired off of that tap would only make sense if it was LESS than the original fuse.
That tap effectively divides that fuse block position to (2) discrete circuits, each only protected by one of the installed fuses...

The original circuit is (only) protected by the original fuse and the new circuit is (only) protected by the new fuse.

.
 
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Darnon

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Does fuse 1/2 only have power when the ignition key is on and truck is running?
It has power whenever the truck is turned on. So also including accessory and when remote started.
 

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Has anyone found a place to tap into to pick up the signal when the key in the hybrid is turned to the start position. Other than the steering column harness.
 

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Has anyone found a place to tap into to pick up the signal when the key in the hybrid is turned to the start position. Other than the steering column harness.
you're looking for (only) the momentary 'start' pulse signal vs 'run'?


.
 
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TheWizziard

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you're looking for (only) the momentary 'start' pulse signal vs 'run'?


.
Correct. Momentary start pulse on the hybrid.
I want to use it as the trigger for a latching relay.
I want to wire the relay to the remote control on/off switch on my 110W (aftermarket) power inverter so that the inverter will only be on when the Maverick is started. This way the ICE will come in when the battery needs charged.

ICE charges the high voltage battery....the high voltage battery charged the 12v battery. It is my understanding this will only work if the vehicle is "started"
 

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Has anyone found a place to tap into to pick up the signal when the key in the hybrid is turned to the start position. Other than the steering column harness.
Ford Maverick Orientation of Add-a-Tap on Fuse 3 and Fuse 6 (Accessory / Ignition Only Power) [Spoiler: It's All Good] 1693825447957


Looks like Pin 4 of C2280D into the BCM or out C2280E pin 41..

Edit: It appears connector C200 under the left side of the dashboard has a wire that loops back on the connector (Pin 53 and Pin 41) almost explicitly for the purpose of tapping/interlocking the start signal?
 
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TheWizziard

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1693825447957.png


Looks like Pin 4 of C2280D into the BCM or out C2280E pin 41..

Edit: It appears connector C200 under the left side of the dashboard has a wire that loops back on the connector (Pin 53 and Pin 41) almost explicitly for the purpose of tapping/interlocking the start signal?
Thanks.

This coincides with a mod that the Cuban Redneck did where he tapped into the Blue-White wire on the steering column for a start signal.

I now need to climb under the dash and find the best place tap.
 

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You could use fuse 6 with a separate inline fuse and a timer.

MyMavMode would do it.

Send the signal wire to the negative leg of your relay.

You could set the timer to close the circuit from .1 second to 999 minutes.
 
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Darnon

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Although technically that'd be triggering off 'key on' rather than precisely 'start'. Probably less of a concern on a hybrid since there's little fuel saving reason not to actually start if you're going to leave it on for an extended period. But an EcoBoost might want to more accurately distinguish if there's going to be a scenario where it's key on, engine off, and a potential high load plugged in for extended periods.
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