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Update to Battery Saver Mode

johnDeere

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I'm not sure where the '12.6 volts' came from.

In my post I said:

"The average AGM voltage has been slightly higher, >12.70V..." (greater than 12.7). Usually >12.75V+ -- which is 90%+ SOC:


1764798495536-yn.webp


I have never seen 13.0V, except immediately after disconnecting the BT. Then it settles to 12.8V or slightly higher.

If people are having battery problems, it is not because they aren't driving for 2 hours at a time. Our Badlands is usually only driven 6 miles one-way and the battery SOC is typically 90% or more. Not 100%, but close to it. We've never seen a battery warning, either with the OE FLA battery (used for 3 years) or the AGM recall replacement.

Unless an owner is taking very short trips, the length of their driving is not the issue.
The 12.6 volts came from in your post when you stated, when the voltage gets below 12.6 volts, I plug in the trickle charger.
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sajohnson

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The 12.6 volts came from in your post when you stated, when the voltage gets below 12.6 volts, I plug in the trickle charger.
What I meant was, after my wife gets home and parks the Badlands, the voltage will naturally begin to decrease from it's initial voltage which is usually ~12.75V +/-0.03 volts or so (measured after sitting for a few hours).

I check the voltage periodically and if/when it gets below ~12.6V I connect the BT.

I could connect it immediately, but I like to keep an eye on the discharge rate since there have been so many issues reported here and on the Bronco Sport Forum.

The main point I was hoping to make is that long drives are not necessary to keep a battery (close to) fully charged. Regardless of the SOC, it makes much more sense to put the battery on a charger.
 

Cherokee

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Called two local dealerships today and asked if my original 2022 maverick hybrid 12v battery could be replaced with the newer 2025 Ford Maverick AGM OEM battery... Of course I was told two different things, one said yes, the other no. I'm willing to pay Ford for the upgrade as my warranty has just expired. Advice please!
Walmart AGM $189 FOUR YEAR FREE REPLACEMENT ! Told me that to my face.
110 minute draw time, Over 700 cca I think it was.
It’s not rocket science, it’s just Ford dropping the ball.
Battery’s are a consumable like tires, shocks and belts.
ALL new vehicles are grossly over complicated and our Mavericks seems to be the biggest Volt Vampire of all.
No big deal,

Work around it.
 

HeyBales

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What I meant was, after my wife gets home and parks the Badlands, the voltage will naturally begin to decrease from it's initial voltage which is usually ~12.75V +/-0.03 volts or so (measured after sitting for a few hours).

I check the voltage periodically and if/when it gets below ~12.6V I connect the BT.

I could connect it immediately, but I like to keep an eye on the discharge rate since there have been so many issues reported here and on the Bronco Sport Forum.

The main point I was hoping to make is that long drives are not necessary to keep a battery (close to) fully charged. Regardless of the SOC, it makes much more sense to put the battery on a charger.
Also keep in mind hybrid talking to EB about something that is NOT the same between models.
 

ZABSMAV

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Mine does not have a problem charging.
And this is what it looks like for having two batteries under the back seat.
Normally the voltage is as high 15 volts.
That picture was taken in the summer, and right after I turned on the truck.
.i would rather have a working truck than have the little extra space.

IMG_0504.webp

IMG_0662.webp
There's nothing holding the battery in place, and the gases from charging are likely never going to make it through that circuitous tubing managery.

Also. Just because the voltage is showing 15 volts doesn't mean a whole lot. It is the amps of current flowing to the battery that is the issue. As others have said it very quickly drops to around 1 amp. Certainly way less than needed to recharge the battery on shorter trips. Shorter trips is what a hybrid was designed for, because of the MPGs in city driving.
 
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ZABSMAV

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Walmart AGM $189 FOUR YEAR FREE REPLACEMENT ! Told me that to my face.
110 minute draw time, Over 700 cca I think it was.
It’s not rocket science, it’s just Ford dropping the ball.
Battery’s are a consumable like tires, shocks and belts.
ALL new vehicles are grossly over complicated and our Mavericks seems to be the biggest Volt Vampire of all.
No big deal,

Work around it.
For some of us it is a very big deal. We paid for the highest end model of the Maverick and when you spend mid $30K for a brand new vehicle you expect it to perform as advertised. If you can't trust that the battery is going to start the system up some cold dark night, it begs that they have an obligation to correct their design defects causing the problem. It truly is a safety issue.
 

Dluep1

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I havebeen watching this thread for two years now, blows my mind that Ford can't design or fix this issue. I have a 2023 XLT , on my third battery, installed an aftermarket AGM and use a solar charger to keep things topped up, hopefully anyways , also turned off Ford pass and wifi .
 

Neils Bohr

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I havebeen watching this thread for two years now, blows my mind that Ford can't design or fix this issue. I have a 2023 XLT , on my third battery, installed an aftermarket AGM and use a solar charger to keep things topped up, hopefully anyways , also turned off Ford pass and wifi .
So did those maneuvers solve all the issues with dead batteries?
 

Master Blaster

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There's nothing holding the battery in place, and the gases from charging are likely never going to make it through that circuitous tubing managery.

Also. Just because the voltage is showing 15 volts doesn't mean a whole lot. It is the amps of current flowing to the battery that is the issue. As others have said it very quickly drops to around 1 amp. Certainly way less than needed to recharge the battery on shorter trips. Shorter trips is what a hybrid was designed for, because of the MPGs in city driving.
If you do not have the battery bolted down, then the installation was not done correctly. And the foot of straight tubing right off the top of the battery is not "circuitous". Get a real mechanic to fix the mess that you have.
You measure the voltage of the battery after the surface charge has bled off, typically 8hrs after you turned the vehicle off. Any reading with a surface charge will be extraordinarily high, like the 15.0V that you claim. A fully charged lead-acid battery is unable to be over 12.7V, be in FL, EFL, AGM or Gel-cell.
I agree with your comments about the ridiculously low charging current though. It like the BMS is going into trickle-charging an hour before it should, and the trickle-charge current is also half of what is reasonable. Its broken.
 

ZABSMAV

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If you do not have the battery bolted down, then the installation was not done correctly. And the foot of straight tubing right off the top of the battery is not "circuitous". Get a real mechanic to fix the mess that you have.
You measure the voltage of the battery after the surface charge has bled off, typically 8hrs after you turned the vehicle off. Any reading with a surface charge will be extraordinarily high, like the 15.0V that you claim. A fully charged lead-acid battery is unable to be over 12.7V, be in FL, EFL, AGM or Gel-cell.
I agree with your comments about the ridiculously low charging current though. It like the BMS is going into trickle-charging an hour before it should, and the trickle-charge current is also half of what is reasonable. Its broken.
I am not sure why you are replying to me as I am not the one with the mickey mouse setup with an unsecured second car battery under the back seat.
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