The fix is in! (Maverick battery drain)

[johnDeere]

Very good statement, but the engine coolant pump has a weird running pattern, but it’s off when I turn off the truck, sometimes it’s off when the engine is running too, now that’s crazy.
As for the HVB pump, it’s only running when the coolant reaches 100. And it’s hit or miss when it runs too.
I can watch it with car scanner.

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[HeyBales]

I wish it was as simple as this.
From what I am seeing on my 23 mav. hybrid XLT. I think the main issue so far is the battery is just too small, (low battery reserve).
I have a volt and amp meter connected to the battery, and have the voltage and amperage on the screen, (car scanner).
So I can see whats going on when in "ready" mode and when the key is off.
Right now, (spring), the battery is charging at 14.6v, in the winter time it was charging at 15v.
The battery has all the current it could take, (i have seen 40 amps going to the battery).
When I get to work, (a 15 minute drive) the current going to the battery is about 3-4 amps at 14.6 volts, so it may not be fully charged.
There is a battery draw right when you turn off the key,
This may be just the lights or other things, but when the lights are OFF the current draw is still present for a while.
It evenly drops, but there is still a current draw.
As for the unknown draw I think its present, but I have not noticed it when walking by the truck and looking in the window. You can hear relays clicking now and then, but thinking it phoning home to ford.

Need to wait 75 min for checking expected draw, 0.25 or less, with hourly spike to 0.5 for couple seconds. Service manual just says 25-50 mA.

What does your scanner show the truck thinks it's SOC% is when it's still at 3-4 amps after 15 min drive?

Mine is almost always down to 0-1 amp after my 15 min, with my SOC% commonly 50, infrequently upwards of 60%.
When it reads 48% before engaging On (and the HVB system charging the 12VB), it'll last longer at the 2-3 A level.

You might also find these PIDS (can't recall if I showed you) and see if yours is keeping it more or less charged than the usage. Mine is always negative by 1 Ah, sometimes 2, and that's when the longer charging at higher Amps occurs.
Currently mine are at 22, 20, and 3.
They would be higher, but I did a BS reset after I charged it up once 206 Day ago. (included the BS in the charging loop, but because it only logs Ignition On charged, it didn't matter.)
So the charging strategy appears happy to allow combined discharges to be at least 1Ah below the charges.

 

[johnDeere]

Need to wait 75 min for checking expected draw, 0.25 or less, with hourly spike to 0.5 for couple seconds. Service manual just says 25-50 mA.

What does your scanner show the truck thinks it's SOC% is when it's still at 3-4 amps after 15 min drive?

Mine is almost always down to 0-1 amp after my 15 min, with my SOC% commonly 50, infrequently upwards of 60%.
When it reads 48% before engaging On (and the HVB system charging the 12VB), it'll last longer at the 2-3 A level.

You might also find these PIDS (can't recall if I showed you) and see if yours is keeping it more or less charged than the usage. Mine is always negative by 1 Ah, sometimes 2, and that's when the longer charging at higher Amps occurs.
Currently mine are at 22, 20, and 3.
They would be higher, but I did a BS reset after I charged it up once 206 Day ago. (included the BS in the charging loop, but because it only logs Ignition On charged, it didn't matter.)
So the charging strategy appears happy to allow combined discharges to be at least 1Ah below the charges.

Thank you for the info. you have.
Your correct, wait about a hour or less and it drops down to .5amps or less. (on amp meter on battery).
I was wondering about the SOC on my car scanner screen, if it was correct or not.
I was kind of surprised when I noticed 65% SOC and showing 14.6 v and 2A. ( I thought it would be higher).
Through out most of my driving, my "volt meter" or "car scanner app" shows 14.6V, 15V in the winter time.
Only one time I did something and it showed 13V but 0 amps in or out of the battery, and the dc to dc converter was supplying all the electric to the electric needs.
Crazy thing was I could only get it to charge to 14.5V when I turned on the lights. any other load, (fan, heated seat, radio, wipers), would not cause the charging at higher voltage., only lights. The BMS must have reset it system and now its charging like it used to.

You should find:
a PID for 12V current from the DC to DC converter.
A PID for 12V battery voltage.
Let me find a picture.

 

[HeyBales]

Thank you for the info. you have.
Your correct, wait about a hour or less and it drops down to .5amps or less. (on amp meter on battery).
I was wondering about the SOC on my car scanner screen, if it was correct or not.
I was kind of surprised when I noticed 65% SOC and showing 14.6 v and 2A. ( I thought it would be higher).
Through out most of my driving, my "volt meter" or "car scanner app" shows 14.6V, 15V in the winter time.
Only one time I did something and it showed 13V but 0 amps in or out of the battery, and the dc to dc converter was supplying all the electric to the electric needs.
Crazy thing was I could only get it to charge to 14.5V when I turned on the lights. any other load, (fan, heated seat, radio, wipers), would not cause the charging at higher voltage., only lights. The BMS must have reset it system and now its charging like it used to.

You should find:
a PID for 12V current from the DC to DC converter.
A PID for 12V battery voltage.
Let me find a picture.

Already got those PIDS.
Also has some for Amps/Current - which is even more important for the charging.

 

[johnDeere]

Already got those PIDS.
Also has some for Amps/Current - which is even more important for the charging.



I put mine on the big screen
Don’t look at SOC on the little screen, it’s not programmed.

 

[Darryl]

I wish it was as simple as this.
From what I am seeing on my 23 mav. hybrid XLT. I think the main issue so far is the battery is just too small, (low battery reserve).
I have a volt and amp meter connected to the battery, and have the voltage and amperage on the screen, (car scanner).
So I can see whats going on when in "ready" mode and when the key is off.
Right now, (spring), the battery is charging at 14.6v, in the winter time it was charging at 15v.
The battery has all the current it could take, (i have seen 40 amps going to the battery).
When I get to work, (a 15 minute drive) the current going to the battery is about 3-4 amps at 14.6 volts, so it may not be fully charged.
There is a battery draw right when you turn off the key,
This may be just the lights or other things, but when the lights are OFF the current draw is still present for a while.
It evenly drops, but there is still a current draw.
As for the unknown draw I think its present, but I have not noticed it when walking by the truck and looking in the window. You can hear relays clicking now and then, but thinking it phoning home to ford.

Interesting you should say this. One Hotline engineer mentioned that HE personally thought the problem was magnified by the fact that the battery capacity is relatively small. Having said that, with the recently released update, the problem should be fixed.

 

[marskren]

From a Ford mechanic regarding the Maverick battery drain

"Hey just wanted to let you know that it looks like Ford finally released a software update to fix the battery drain. It looks like I was correct in saying it's the same issue as the Mach-e. It's a software update for the ACCM (air conditioning control module)"

Maybe I was just lucky (???) but when they tried to do the update, it killed the module in the AC compressor. Now, they have a new compressor ordered and are hoping that it will come in the first of the week (of course, I pick a holiday week!) with it back to me the middle to end of next week.

 

[johnDeere]

I guess the only lucky thing that happened was they trashed out the compressor module there in there shop and told you that they fried it and one will be received next week. Hopefully they found out what fried the module and don't do it again.
I don't have a warm fuzzy feeling about this whole issue being fix with out issues.
23 mav hybrid XLT

 

[Darryl]

I guess the only lucky thing that happened was they trashed out the compressor module there in there shop and told you that they fried it and one will be received next week. Hopefully they found out what fried the module and don't do it again.
I don't have a warm fuzzy feeling about this whole issue being fix with out issues.
23 mav hybrid XLT

Every blue moon an update will fry a modUle. I’ve seen it happen years ago with a diesel Transmission module. Ford even has a special contact for when we have problems. It’s EXTREMELY RARE . But it happens. I think it simply exposes a pre existing fault in a module. Sometimes our computer glitches. Sometimes the battery in either our computer or the vehicle is low. That’s why they tell us to connect to an external charger during the update. Most of the time we can recover the module. But on rare occasions, we can’t. Thankfully it happened at the dealership . Either way, you get the latest component with the latest update.

 

[johnDeere]

Every blue moon an update will fry a modUle. I’ve seen it happen years ago with a diesel Transmission module. Ford even has a special contact for when we have problems. It’s EXTREMELY RARE . But it happens. I think it simply exposes a pre existing fault in a module. Sometimes our computer glitches. Sometimes the battery in either our computer or the vehicle is low. That’s why they tell us to connect to an external charger during the update. Most of the time we can recover the module. But on rare occasions, we can’t. Thankfully it happened at the dealership . Either way, you get the latest component with the latest update.

I like what you said about ford telling the tech to put a charger on the battery before you do a update.
This does make sense, but if you think about it, the update should not take more than 15 minutes, your only updating the software in a module, it should not require that much battery to do the update, unless ford knows that the battery in the maverick is too small for the electronics.
So there just covering there butt.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I like what you said about ford telling the tech to put a charger on the battery before you do a update.
This does make sense, but if you think about it, the update should not take more than 15 minutes, your only updating the software in a module, it should not require that much battery to do the update, unless ford knows that the battery in the maverick is too small for the electronics.
So there just covering there butt.

The charger should put 13 volts into the bus because if less than 12.1 volts is seen on the open circuit while the update checks certain circuits to see if an option is installed and the high-low voltage across some sensors, etc the battery save shedding (if activated) can mask off installed options and diddly-do-do the update.

 

[Darryl]

I like what you said about ford telling the tech to put a charger on the battery before you do a update.
This does make sense, but if you think about it, the update should not take more than 15 minutes, your only updating the software in a module, it should not require that much battery to do the update, unless ford knows that the battery in the maverick is too small for the electronics.
So there just covering there butt.

That's the recommendation for EVERY update regardless of the time it takes. Even if it's a 2 minute update on a super duty diesel with dual batteries. Why? Because we have no idea of the condition of a vehicle's battery . We use our judgement. But sometimes we mess up because we've had vehicles come in with a battery that's good enough to start the vehicle because they start immediately. But 5 minutes with the key on will deplete it. And we're not going to test EVERY battery when a customer simply wants his free recall and will actually get mad and accuse us of sabotage if we recommend ANY repairs. So just take the 2 minutes and connect the charger

 

[Master Blaster]

I like what you said about ford telling the tech to put a charger on the battery before you do a update.
This does make sense, but if you think about it, the update should not take more than 15 minutes, your only updating the software in a module, it should not require that much battery to do the update, unless ford knows that the battery in the maverick is too small for the electronics.
So there just covering there butt.

I just had the ACCM update done at a large and well-trained dealership, and it took just under 3 hours plugged in to the OBD2 port, including multiple update failures. Depleting the battery for that long could be a serious issue.

 

[Dad]

Gee, that didn't take long . . . only 3 years.

 

[HeyBales]

Gee, that didn't take long . . . only 3 years.

It's not what you think it is.

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