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Side Marker/Turns DIY Instructional - How I'm doing it

RideSolo

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I mentioned in a couple other threads that I'm putting together an instructional in making fender "vent" side marker/turn signals. I know this subject has been covered numerous times on here but I thought I'd go at it from a detailed instructional approach. Many folks on here are skilled w/ do it yourself projects and I'm sure many have far better skills and abilities than I, but there are also some who don"t and my hope is to help that group. My way certainly isn't the "only" way but I try come up with a practical and achievable plan, source and acquire the bits n pieces needed, and then put together something that'll work right, isn't too complicated, and will work and last indefinitely.

I like having the extra safety of side turn signals on my vehicles and was surprised that a newly designed, twenty-first century vehicle doesn't have them from the factory. They are visible and convenient when on the mirrors but I wanted an OEM look AND a modification I could afford. I saw one of the threads here on MTC with a pretty nice looking lens that fits on the fender "vent" perfectly and, in my opinion, looks like it could be OEM. They can be found on Etsy.com from a guy named Ty at GadCad. They are available in Amber, Frost, and Smoke. I got the Smoke color because my Mav is SB. Probably most would find the Amber right for their needs but I can see where the Frost lenses would look really sharp on certain color trucks.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1375201097/diy-fender-light-lenses-covers-for-the?ref=yr_purchases

I got the LEDs from Amazon. I've used these before on a motorcycle project so I'm familiar w/ them and have found them durable, bright, and inexpensive. I got the three wire lights that have a running light and a brighter turn signal. If you wish you can get the two wire and have just a turn signal. Here is the link for the .75" lights I got. There are probably many different varieties available. Again, I used these on another project and have been pleased w/ them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096J2T74B?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1

I'm not fond of quickie wire connectors; they can leak moisture, break, and I don't think they look professional. T-taps and scotch connectors will work and, yes, I have used them in the past, but I relegate their use to "last choice." Because of that I wanted to go with a cleaner installation for this project. One of the other threads on here had a link for these and though I thought they were a bit on the expensive side I decided to get them. I think if I were going to do this more than once I'd get individual plugs and wire and make my own. Here's the link:

https://customautoworksstore.com/product/2022-24-ford-maverick-side-marker-plug/

In continuing w/ the professional or finished look I've also gone to using woven loom to cover wiring projects. There's a learning curve and sort of a knack to using the stuff but it provides that "finished" look to wiring projects and helps to tidy things up.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F41JTS6?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_5

Here's picture of the items noted above. In addition some lengths of wire will be needed but we'll get to that in the future.

Ford Maverick Side Marker/Turns DIY Instructional - How I'm doing it Maverick013


I had planned to use the white connectors that are on top of the wire loom spool, but rather than cur off and replace the connectors that come on the LEDs I think I'm going to use individual bayonet connectors, the red ones in the picture below. Should the need ever arise to replace an LED it'll be much easier to go this route.

Ford Maverick Side Marker/Turns DIY Instructional - How I'm doing it Maverick014


Crimp on butt connectors can be used for all the wire connections but I prefer to solder and use heat shrink tubing. It's more secure and looks better. If you don't know how to solder it's an easy skill to learn and isn't very expensive to get into. I haven't looked but I'm sure there are bunches of YouTube vids demonstrating proper soldering tecniques. Check it out, it's one of those life skills everybody should learn. (Yeah, my opinion for what it's worth.)

Next installment I'll show how to extend the wires from the connectors and then put on the wire loom.
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I'll be watching! This is nearly identical to the setup I've been contemplating. I'm still not sure about the lenses though, so I look forward to pics of yours.
 

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I have the mabett side vents and really like them, I just don't like how high they sit personally. I'm going the same route only I'm going to paint that fender insert white to match my truck and the XLT black. Only difference is I'm using the clear lenses instead of the smoke.

I'll only be wiring them for blinkers, they will not come on with the parking lamps. The LEDs I got look to be three times brighter and more visible especially in day than the mabbitt version using smoked lenses.
 
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First Sergeant

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I mentioned in a couple other threads that I'm putting together an instructional in making fender "vent" side marker/turn signals. I know this subject has been covered numerous times on here but I thought I'd go at it from a detailed instructional approach. Many folks on here are skilled w/ do it yourself projects and I'm sure many have far better skills and abilities than I, but there are also some who don"t and my hope is to help that group. My way certainly isn't the "only" way but I try come up with a practical and achievable plan, source and acquire the bits n pieces needed, and then put together something that'll work right, isn't too complicated, and will work and last indefinitely.

I like having the extra safety of side turn signals on my vehicles and was surprised that a newly designed, twenty-first century vehicle doesn't have them from the factory. They are visible and convenient when on the mirrors but I wanted an OEM look AND a modification I could afford. I saw one of the threads here on MTC with a pretty nice looking lens that fits on the fender "vent" perfectly and, in my opinion, looks like it could be OEM. They can be found on Etsy.com from a guy named Ty at GadCad. They are available in Amber, Frost, and Smoke. I got the Smoke color because my Mav is SB. Probably most would find the Amber right for their needs but I can see where the Frost lenses would look really sharp on certain color trucks.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1375201097/diy-fender-light-lenses-covers-for-the?ref=yr_purchases

I got the LEDs from Amazon. I've used these before on a motorcycle project so I'm familiar w/ them and have found them durable, bright, and inexpensive. I got the three wire lights that have a running light and a brighter turn signal. If you wish you can get the two wire and have just a turn signal. Here is the link for the .75" lights I got. There are probably many different varieties available. Again, I used these on another project and have been pleased w/ them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096J2T74B?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1

I'm not fond of quickie wire connectors; they can leak moisture, break, and I don't think they look professional. T-taps and scotch connectors will work and, yes, I have used them in the past, but I relegate their use to "last choice." Because of that I wanted to go with a cleaner installation for this project. One of the other threads on here had a link for these and though I thought they were a bit on the expensive side I decided to get them. I think if I were going to do this more than once I'd get individual plugs and wire and make my own. Here's the link:

https://customautoworksstore.com/product/2022-24-ford-maverick-side-marker-plug/

In continuing w/ the professional or finished look I've also gone to using woven loom to cover wiring projects. There's a learning curve and sort of a knack to using the stuff but it provides that "finished" look to wiring projects and helps to tidy things up.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F41JTS6?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_5

Here's picture of the items noted above. In addition some lengths of wire will be needed but we'll get to that in the future.

Maverick013.jpeg


I had planned to use the white connectors that are on top of the wire loom spool, but rather than cur off and replace the connectors that come on the LEDs I think I'm going to use individual bayonet connectors, the red ones in the picture below. Should the need ever arise to replace an LED it'll be much easier to go this route.

Maverick014.jpeg


Crimp on butt connectors can be used for all the wire connections but I prefer to solder and use heat shrink tubing. It's more secure and looks better. If you don't know how to solder it's an easy skill to learn and isn't very expensive to get into. I haven't looked but I'm sure there are bunches of YouTube vids demonstrating proper soldering tecniques. Check it out, it's one of those life skills everybody should learn. (Yeah, my opinion for what it's worth.)

Next installment I'll show how to extend the wires from the connectors and then put on the wire loom.
I did this exact install, used the same parts from Ty. Still working and looking good. I like the look, close to factory. Pretty inexpensive also.

 

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A.Bursell

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I like the direction you are headed, though I disagree about solder being more secure than crimp. They each have their place, but know that probably 99%+ of the wire connections in the truck are crimped. This is coming from someone who solders and crimps.

What I would suggest, if you're not afraid of a little investment and upping your DIY game, is to look into something like the Deutsch connector system. They don't have to actually be from Deutsch, there are other companies that make them and lots of variations. They are very quick to crimp the terminals, assemble the connectors with no tools, disassemble the connectors if needed with basically a small flathead screwdriver, they are very secure, and waterproof. OEM's use them on everything from cars to airplanes to marine to offroad to anything you can think of. This is a real professional wiring solution.

Here is an example of a fairly complete kit that I would recommend if you like doing projects:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C7K8Q5CZ?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2

Now you don't need that big of a kit for sure, but I recommend using solid contacts if you look at other kits (the crimpers actually crimp in 4 places). These style crimpers are basically self-aligning -- it's actually hard to get a bad crimp.

Here's a 2-minute YouTube video I grabbed real quick so you can see how they go together. Literally a 2-minute video that gives you almost everything you need to know.



Looking forward to seeing your progress and how it all turns out.
 
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RideSolo

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How are you guys attaching the lens cover?
I'm planning to use a silicone adhesive, clear or black, or an industrial double side tape or hook n loop. I don't want whatever I use to be too thick which I think the hook n loop will be. I'll be dong more rearch on that .
 
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I like the direction you are headed, though I disagree about solder being more secure than crimp. They each have their place, but know that probably 99%+ of the wire connections in the truck are crimped. This is coming from someone who solders and crimps.

What I would suggest, if you're not afraid of a little investment and upping your DIY game, is to look into something like the Deutsch connector system. They don't have to actually be from Deutsch, there are other companies that make them and lots of variations. They are very quick to crimp the terminals, assemble the connectors with no tools, disassemble the connectors if needed with basically a small flathead screwdriver, they are very secure, and waterproof. OEM's use them on everything from cars to airplanes to marine to offroad to anything you can think of. This is a real professional wiring solution.

Here is an example of a fairly complete kit that I would recommend if you like doing projects:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C7K8Q5CZ?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2

Now you don't need that big of a kit for sure, but I recommend using solid contacts if you look at other kits (the crimpers actually crimp in 4 places). These style crimpers are basically self-aligning -- it's actually hard to get a bad crimp.

Here's a 2-minute YouTube video I grabbed real quick so you can see how they go together. Literally a 2-minute video that gives you almost everything you need to know.

...

Looking forward to seeing your progress and how it all turns out.
I really appreciate your input! The last big electrical project I did was to wire a motorcycle I rebuilt and it came out fine but I wish I had known about the Detusch connectors, they're pretty sharp. If I head off into another project of that magnitude I'll use them for sure. What I'm shooting for here should work out pretty well w/ what I've planned, I want to keep everything compact and simple. I do crimp things but I like to crimp AND heat shrink and if I'm going to do that it's usually cleaner and more compact to solder and heat shrink and then cover w/ the loom stuff. Anal? Picky? OCD? I dunno, just the way I like to do it. I guess it's largely because over the years I've seen too many old cars and motorcycles w/ butt connectors, scotch connectors, T-taps, and too much dry, hard, and sticky electrical tape and I don't want to leave that kind of stuff for somebody else to find.
 

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How are you guys attaching the lens cover?
I used double sided 3M tape, completely around the entire edge. Been on the truck for a year and a half with no issues. I know the tape is not waterproof, but I have not gotten any moisture in the lens yet and been through many rain storms. I have not been in a brush style car wash, but I am certain they would hold up there also.
 
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I used double sided 3M tape, completely around the entire edge. Been on the truck for a year and a half with no issues. I know the tape is not waterproof, but I have not gotten any moisture in the lens yet and been through many rain storms. I have not been in a brush style car wash, but I am certain they would hold up there also.
Yeah, just put some 3M stuff into my cart. I think what I've found will be thin, secure, and waterproof.
 

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I really appreciate your input! The last big electrical project I did was to wire a motorcycle I rebuilt and it came out fine but I wish I had known about the Detusch connectors, they're pretty sharp. If I head off into another project of that magnitude I'll use them for sure. What I'm shooting for here should work out pretty well w/ what I've planned, I want to keep everything compact and simple. I do crimp things but I like to crimp AND heat shrink and if I'm going to do that it's usually cleaner and more compact to solder and heat shrink and then cover w/ the loom stuff. Anal? Picky? OCD? I dunno, just the way I like to do it. I guess it's largely because over the years I've seen too many old cars and motorcycles w/ butt connectors, scotch connectors, T-taps, and too much dry, hard, and sticky electrical tape and I don't want to leave that kind of stuff for somebody else to find.
There are millions of other connectors, some like Weatherpack style, are also very good and somewhat simple, but I really like Deutsch and think you will too. They aren't the best solution in every situation, but you will like having the option once you try them.

A couple other thoughts:

For splicing wires, I suggest looking into non-insulated crimp butt connectors. Again, very easy to get started, easy to verify, and hard to get wrong. By using bare crimps, you keep the connections as small as possible so you don't end up with big bunches even if all your splices in a bundle are in the same place. You do have to heat shrink over top of them, but since you like that anyway I don't think it's any more work for you. As a bonus, if you are a belt and suspenders kind of person, it is super easy to also solder on top of the bare crimp. Completely unnecessary in 99% of applications, but you won't get a better connection than crimped and soldered. Oh, and they are cheaper than other crimps most of the time too! Once you try them I think you will want to have them around too.

Example: (I like this company but maybe not the best assortment.)
https://a.co/d/6bMUgn9

I would never, ever recommend those old style hard plastic butt connectors. Tap-in, scotch lok, vampires, those types of things do have a place, but they should be a last resort - not the first like so many people use them.

I recently finished a project on a buddy's motorcycle that started as a simple add-on, but when I saw scotch looks and bare wires twisted together and all kinds of other nightmares I just couldn't leave it.

I actually really like wiring so I tend to geek out on it. Your project will come out nice no matter what you use because you are putting the time and effort in. I like to share some of my experience where I can and hopefully it helps everyone bump their DIY levels.
 
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There are millions of other connectors, some like Weatherpack style, are also very good and somewhat simple, but I really like Deutsch and think you will too. They aren't the best solution in every situation, but you will like having the option once you try them.

A couple other thoughts:

....

I actually really like wiring so I tend to geek out on it. Your project will come out nice no matter what you use because you are putting the time and effort in. I like to share some of my experience where I can and hopefully it helps everyone bump their DIY levels.
I appreciate that and like the share. That's a bunch of what I'm trying to do here as I'm seeing lots of posts that indicate there are many who are hesitant to take on simple projects. Oh yeah, for sure, there may be some who SHOULDN'T, but most probably just have never done it before and with some instruction and guidance can learn that they are capable of such projects and enjoy doing them. I have and still use an analog Volt/Ohm meter that I built from a kit way back in the late '70s. It may not be as accurate as a digital one but for testing batteries and continuity I still get satisfaction and feel pride when I use it. Many thanks to the older brothers for encouragement and support!
 

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I appreciate that and like the share. That's a bunch of what I'm trying to do here as I'm seeing lots of posts that indicate there are many who are hesitant to take on simple projects. Oh yeah, for sure, there may be some who SHOULDN'T, but most probably just have never done it before and with some instruction and guidance can learn that they are capable of such projects and enjoy doing them. I have and still use an analog Volt/Ohm meter that I built from a kit way back in the late '70s. It may not be as accurate as a digital one but for testing batteries and continuity I still get satisfaction and feel pride when I use it. Many thanks to the older brothers for encouragement and support!
Great minds think alike! I have my old (1972) Radio Shack meter that I like for exactly the same reasons. Did not build it, just bought it. I have several digital and a clamp style for other uses and also just a 12V light with the sharp point on it.
 
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RideSolo

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Great minds think alike! I have my old (1972) Radio Shack meter that I like for exactly the same reasons. Did not build it, just bought it. I have several digital and a clamp style for other uses and also just a 12V light with the sharp point on it.
Ha ha, I've got one of those, too. My kit (with a blue case) was from Radio Shack and the clear plastic cover is cracked. I came across the same model (non-kit, black case) on eBay a few years ago so I bought it to make repairs to the blue one... Oh well, they look the same but the parts aren't the same. Now I've got two, I keep the black one in the RV.
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