I pay the dealership to worry about it. Climate, driving habits, etc. are going to play a large role. For the average consumer, just change the oil when the life gets to 15% and use what is recommended on the cap.
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*Proceed With Caution* Hybrid, Which oil to use?
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As long as any oil you use meets the specification called out for that part number it is ok to use! I do not have a hybrid but a 19 Ranger. I try to pay attention to what goes on and what is said in this forum because I am considering the purchase of a Maverick in the future. I have watched videos on the tranny system used in the Maverick and do like what I see. but I digress.. I use Mobil 1 in my Ranger. I have been using a full synthetic since the 1980's! Have never had an oil related failure. Either oil is good but I believe a synthetic is better. I worked in aviation manufacture for 40 years, I built, tested and repaired sub components for various aircraft. The company I worked for was a small engineering, Mom and Pop firm. The owner, who was an engineer, flew, built and supplied components for P51 Mustangs. He used Mobil 1 aviation grade oil in his personal P 51. I figured if its good enough for a V 12 Packard built Rolls Royce engine, then its good enough for my cars.
Apologies for the lengthy response. If you would like check out Weber Automotive Institute, they do a teardown and comparison of the Hybrid drive systems used by Ford and Toyota. It is worth watching!
Daniel....
Has anyone tried Mobile 1 extended performance? It's suppose to protect an engine for up to 20k miles.
I'm sticking with the advanced fuel economy version since Sam's has six quarts for $10 for a pre tax total of $33.40 until the 21st.
I'm sticking with the advanced fuel economy version since Sam's has six quarts for $10 for a pre tax total of $33.40 until the 21st.
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Think it's ok to mix havoline 5-20 full syn with havoline 0-20? I have a case of 5-20 I don't want to waste
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A true land mine issue, as you say. Some have replied, even in this string, that it’s a waste of money to change oil sooner than recommended by the maintenance minder or mileage/time stated in the owners manual. Others, again even in this string, that 200k plus miles is achieved thru more frequent oil changes. Is either option worthy of back and forth mud slinging? I think not. Let people be to make a choice that suits them!
As for what oil to use, this is my first ever new car. 2022 xl hybrid. For some reason, I have been affected by the naysayers who say American cars/fords suck and will blow up. So I got the extended warranty and payed very close attention to the owners manual for oil choice. 1st change at 5k done by the dealer. No clue what they used. 2 change at 10k done by me. Motorcraft oil filter and Mobil 1 0W-20 fully synthetic. Most importantly, the reason I chose that particular oil is because it’s states right on the bottle that it “meets or exceeds “ the ford spec oil. I’m saving receipts for the first time ever so if the naysayers are right, I can prove I did everything by the book.
Well put, my opinion is the same. #1 always do what’s best for you.A true land mine issue, as you say. Some have replied, even in this string, that it’s a waste of money to change oil sooner than recommended by the maintenance minder or mileage/time stated in the owners manual. Others, again even in this string, that 200k plus miles is achieved thru more frequent oil changes. Is either option worthy of back and forth mud slinging? I think not. Let people be to make a choice that suits them!
As for what oil to use, this is my first ever new car. 2022 xl hybrid. For some reason, I have been affected by the naysayers who say American cars/fords suck and will blow up. So I got the extended warranty and payed very close attention to the owners manual for oil choice. 1st change at 5k done by the dealer. No clue what they used. 2 change at 10k done by me. Motorcraft oil filter and Mobil 1 0W-20 fully synthetic. Most importantly, the reason I chose that particular oil is because it’s states right on the bottle that it “meets or exceeds “ the ford spec oil. I’m saving receipts for the first time ever so if the naysayers are right, I can prove I did everything by the book.
There seems to be a commonality with the new Dexos Gen 3 (GM), and the ford …962-A1 formulas, discernible in the "Meets OR Exceeds" text.
From what I interpret it’s based on the additive packages that more efficiently suspend combustion byproducts produced by our ICE which takes longer to reach and sustain an optimal operating temperature.
It looks like these new oils, labeled as “Hybrid Vehicle” seem to share the Dexos Gen 3 and Ford …962-A1 in their designations, the only difference is in the “Meets or Exceeds” vs “Approved” markings, now I’m officially in the weeds.
I’m now looking toward the detailed “data sheets” from the oil companies (Mobil 1, Valvoline), to compare their chemical make-up formulas to that of the Motorcraft oil which is marked by Ford as “Approved”, to make my call.
I know I’m picking things a part here, but, I’m a car nerd, and that’s why I’m here.
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Go with what the manual says. But beware - I’m not immediately with the manual, could be a temperature range chart of the various oils, like the 20w and 30w stuff. Depending where you live, work one should heed the ambient temperatures in your region. And what’s the temperature range of the oil you using, the high number.
Equally important one should learn about turbocharger, how they are lubricated, how lubrication affects heating upon startups and shutdown. Long ago, under the old oil “regimes”, heat soak of turbos when shutdown an issue, which results in “coking”. The technology in lube oil has changed with blending, synthetics. As in my old F250 turbo diesel, start ups were sit while idling before rolling. And shutdowns were sit and idle fir cooldown, before shutdown, to reduce heat soaking. I’m doing similar procedures for the Maverick. And the wife’s Escape. She, on other hand, just “goes”, and nothing I can do about that. Her car, her problems.
I'm a big believer in pre-lube and post-lube system, especially for turbo charged packaged engines.
Equally important one should learn about turbocharger, how they are lubricated, how lubrication affects heating upon startups and shutdown. Long ago, under the old oil “regimes”, heat soak of turbos when shutdown an issue, which results in “coking”. The technology in lube oil has changed with blending, synthetics. As in my old F250 turbo diesel, start ups were sit while idling before rolling. And shutdowns were sit and idle fir cooldown, before shutdown, to reduce heat soaking. I’m doing similar procedures for the Maverick. And the wife’s Escape. She, on other hand, just “goes”, and nothing I can do about that. Her car, her problems.
I'm a big believer in pre-lube and post-lube system, especially for turbo charged packaged engines.
so as long as I get the right viscosity synthetic, they cannot void my warranty? What about the oil filter?
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Or, you can do oil analysis (as I did) and make your decision on actual *facts* for YOUR Mav, YOUR driving scenario, YOUR driving conditions. For mine, I did an analysis at 10k mi on the Ford 0w-20 the dealer put in it when I bought it (@ odo 4k). The results were very good all the way across.
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ysis-for-10k-mi-interval-23-hybrid-xlt.54129/
Just for grins, I have 5w-30 (full synthetic) in there now, to see if I can even further reduce the already very low levels of metallics over 10k OCI.
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ysis-for-10k-mi-interval-23-hybrid-xlt.54129/
Just for grins, I have 5w-30 (full synthetic) in there now, to see if I can even further reduce the already very low levels of metallics over 10k OCI.
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They only had the 0w16 hybrid oil where I was at, so next time I guess i will order the 0W20 on line
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I have a 2022 hybrid Lariat that's almost 3 years old, Sarasota Ford has done 3 oil changes, and they used a blend oil each time. That's what Ford recommends according to them. I change my oil around 7K, or once a year, Full Synthetic is good for 15K, that's to long for a hybrid I think. Also there's a way to get an ESP from Granger even if you live in FL. if you want one.
Most full synthetics meet the Ford specification for the Hybrid. The primary difference in the couple of 'Hybrid' blends is the additive package is modified to allow oil change intervals of 15,000 miles or more, depending upon the brand.
FWIW the oils packed by Warren Products (ie: Super-Tech, and other many other private & smaller brands) fully meet the Ford specification or certification. I checked, and received confirmation they fully meet the Ford specification for Super-Tech 0W20 in all full synthetic blends. The fellow replying also mentioned all of their 0W20s, other than high-mileage and non-full synthetic are certified for the Ford spec.
I'll add some personal experience, the factory fill oil had some of that white cream (moisture) on and around the fill cap on my first change. On the second change, done at the same time of year, about the same number of miles, with possibly even cooler/colder temps, did not have that build up around on and around the filler cap area using the Super-Tech. - I realize this is not scientific, and consists of a experience of a single oil/filter change for each oil, just passing along my experience.
FWIW the oils packed by Warren Products (ie: Super-Tech, and other many other private & smaller brands) fully meet the Ford specification or certification. I checked, and received confirmation they fully meet the Ford specification for Super-Tech 0W20 in all full synthetic blends. The fellow replying also mentioned all of their 0W20s, other than high-mileage and non-full synthetic are certified for the Ford spec.
I'll add some personal experience, the factory fill oil had some of that white cream (moisture) on and around the fill cap on my first change. On the second change, done at the same time of year, about the same number of miles, with possibly even cooler/colder temps, did not have that build up around on and around the filler cap area using the Super-Tech. - I realize this is not scientific, and consists of a experience of a single oil/filter change for each oil, just passing along my experience.
The hybrid engine calls for synthetic-only 0W20, and so does the manual. Switching to 5W30 will slow down oil flow at the critical engine startup point, which happens maybe 50x as often as on the EcoBoost. Those extra quarter-seconds with no lube will eventually kill your engine. Also, the thicker oil will not splash correctly on the cylinder walls, again wearing your engine unnecessarily. Just give the 5W30 away to someone with an EcoBoost.
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See previous discussion on this. As with virtually ALL modern engines, it uses a trochoid pump. It pumps the same volume per rotation for any commercially available viscosity lubricant. I assure you, it is never running "dry". If anything, there is a slightly thicker residual film left on parts when the engine isn't running, as compared to 0w-20. For sure, 0W-20 takes less ENERGY to pump, thus I expect (and accept) that 5w-30 it might have a slight impact on MPG, in exchange for *possibly* lower wear metal PPM. Oil analysis will inform me.
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