I forgot to mention and will edit the post the engine oil suggestion I was using is for 2.0L ecoboost engines not the hybrid. I don't know what nuances need to be taken into consideration for those when considering engine oil besides what weight oil is recommended in the book.
Sorry, wasn't trying to say anything bad about your breakdown, it really was a nice job. I just wanted folks to keep in mind that these standards deal with more than the 5W-30 or 0W-20 part of the oil too. I have been to gas stations that still have oils on the shelf that has an API SG rating on them sitting on the shelf and folks think it will still work like modern oil in their 2019 vehicle.
For me it is very simple the Ford Pass app tells me when i need to change the oil and then i bring it to the dealer about 1.5 miles from my house. My Escape had 300k miles engine ran great but the paint fell off. Gave it to my son and he put another 100k on it. He traded it cause his girlfriend was embarrassed by how it looked. I suggested he keep the SUV.
Anyways I did some looking and the hybrid is indeed a direct injection so all that info is valid for the hybrid 2.5L engine. The only logical assumption I'd say is that it will take longer for the sludge issues in the valves to rear their ugly head since you won't be using the gas portion as often. The oil blowback that in turn decreases the turbo performance can be solved at any time with an aftermarket oil catch can. With that said the biggest immediate issue here for both is pre ignition issue which is a problem on all direct injection engines.
Also besides using the app, setting a scheduling alarm it in cluster works as a reminder as long as you know how miles you want to go between changes. It all depends how engaged you want to be in the maintenance process. Some people are more fastidious than others.
2003 Escape Limited 3.0 V6. I also currently have a 2018 Escape SE-4WD with a 1.5 ECOBOOST and a 2021 Escape Titanium Hybrid AWD. I love the new one and can’t wait for my Maverick LAriat Hybrid. It is the last vehicle I will ever buy.
Not a race car but it does have a turbo, which pushes the small engine to its limits. Over the past 12 years, I switched all my vehicles (even motorcycles) to Mobil 1 and use the extended performance with 20,000 mile guarantee. You can go way longer between oil changes with synthetic, which outweighs the cost savings on Dino Oil. The only advantage of using the latter is if you have a vehicle that is losing lots of oil, or you're selling it soon and don't care.
You need to run in accordance with the owners manual but it is your truck and your warranty. Good luck and enjoy your new truck.
FALSE, the hybrid is SMFI (sequential multiport fuel injection) aka port injected
Thank you, the info I found then was incorrect.
Full synthetic if you do it yourself is only a few bucks more per oil change than conventional oil so why not give your expensive vehicle the best oil?
The eb with the turbo and 10k oil changes concerns me. Maybe I'll play it by visual inspection of the oil and the oil meter on the dash. I haven't had a turbo since 1992 thru 1994. It's really an economic and environmental waste to change the oil if it's really not increasing the longevity of the engine/vehicle.
I agree with that. If the dash minder tells me to change my oil at 8,000 miles I'll do that. If the oil looks black, I would change it at 3000. My first change was around 4-5k. Even though Ford didn't recommend it, I still believe in changing it after a breakin period. That is much longer when you're running synthetic.
DI & turbos typically cause some soot build-up & fuel dilution, both of which have their issues with wear and piston deposits. I know GM recently went down to a max of 7,500 miles or 6 months on their OLM dash light algorithm for boosted DI engines. Not sure if Ford has the same recognition of issues.
