Oh No P1061

[Glen Baker LLC]

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[skinnyboy]

Blackstone reports were very clear.
The engine oil was perfect. Transmission had 1089 ppm iron vs an expected average of 53. Nickel and Boron were slightly high as well. The additive package of the oil still looked good so this failure is not due to old/bad lubricant.
Started the process of removing the transmission today. Hope to have it out before the weekend is up.

Hope it goes smoothly and doesn't cost a fortune!

Cheers.

 

[Art Core]

Transmission is out!
It is possible to pull the trans without dropping the engine. You have to remove the subframe and the SOBDMC from the top of the transmission and it is still tight. Cant pull it up and out, has to drop through the bottom. Was able to do it with two floor jacks, a transmission jack, a pair of jackstands, and an engine hoist.
It was late so I only removed the side of the case that attaches to the engine and poked around for a few minutes. One oddity was a spanner nut at the end of the transfer shaft. I was loose as it could be, had no trouble unscrewing it with my ATF soaked fingers. None of the bearings on that side were frozen or had any resistance to spinning. Will get into the other side this weekend.

 

[Bob zimmerman]

A picture of the tranny on the ground would be interesting. You’re going into a repair area that is mysterious and frightening for me.

Keep us posted on the progress!
Bob

 

[Finnster]

Blackstone reports were very clear.
The engine oil was perfect. Transmission had 1089 ppm iron vs an expected average of 53. Nickel and Boron were slightly high as well. The additive package of the oil still looked good so this failure is not due to old/bad lubricant.
Started the process of removing the transmission today. Hope to have it out before the weekend is up.

Did you happen to measure the fluid volume of the old transmission fluid that came out? Had it been properly filled?
Sorry to hear your Maverick had this failure! At least it sounds like you are quite qualified to get to the bottom of the issue!

 

[Cherokee]

Got word back from the dealer:
Recommended service
$399.90
Other | trans diag/info: verified concern, performed eec test retrieved multiple codes in pcm and sobdmc for internal clutch A fault issues and Generator Torque Delivered Performance and Transmission Range Sensor Alignment, also retrieved code p1061 Excessive Engine Component Deterioration, they have a tsb for this one to reprogram 4 diff modules,....

So they are saying the P1061 is in error and only requires reprogramming. But……

$7,716.20
Other | need complete transmission assembly

failed transmission that requires complete replacement. Seems super expensive. Will probably have a second opinion before dropping 8k.

That right there folks is why I dropped
Two Grand on Fords extended warranty.
I’m good to 100,000 miles.
I do about 13-14,000 a year.
I got five years under this warranty.

I will trade up !
I will never own or operate a modern vehicle without a full coverage warranty and full coverage insurance.

AND, A. N. D.
For an extra $60 per YEAR on my Auto Insurance policy I have a full new vehicle replacement warranty if I am totaled for any reason.

Seems a guy could be walking past your
Beloved Mini Truck after a night of Texas Chili and Beer then Fart real hard and total your Maverick !
Or what If you get T-Boned by a Three year old on a tricycle ?
Totaled.

Unibodies, who woulda thunk it ?

 

[Art Core]

Here you go. Very similar to the HF35 from the Fusion.

The large gear in the middle is the top gear on the transfer shaft. The shaft consist of three gears and ties all of the inputs/outputs together.

The shaft at the top of the photo is the input from the electric drive motor. It connects to the top gear on the transfer shaft.

The large gear on the bottom left is the differential that send power to the wheels. It connects to the bottom gear of the transfer shaft.

The smaller gear on the bottom right is the gas engine input, parking mechanism, as well as the starter motor. It connects to the middle gear on the transfer shaft. This is where my issue lies. The middle gear on the transfer shaft is spinning freely (loudly). Not sure if it is splined to the shaft or just press fit, but either way it's not any longer. This explains why I was able to move the truck under electric power, but all hell would break loose as soon as the gas engine would start to drive the truck. Oddly enough none of the gears show any wear or damage.

I'm in the process of double checking all of the bearings. Pulled the sun/plant gears out yesterday and they look fine. This necessated the removal of the starter motor. Those permanent magnets are strong! Ended up pulling the stator first as I could get my hand under it for leverage, but I missed removal of one wire broke it. Haven't flipped the transmission back over to see if it is an easy fix.

 

[Suzukiridr14]

Here you go. Very similar to the HF35 from the Fusion.

The large gear in the middle is the top gear on the transfer shaft. The shaft consist of three gears and ties all of the inputs/outputs together.

The shaft at the top of the photo is the input from the electric drive motor. It connects to the top gear on the transfer shaft.

The large gear on the bottom left is the differential that send power to the wheels. It connects to the bottom gear of the transfer shaft.

The smaller gear on the bottom right is the gas engine input, parking mechanism, as well as the starter motor. It connects to the middle gear on the transfer shaft. This is where my issue lies. The middle gear on the transfer shaft is spinning freely (loudly). Not sure if it is splined to the shaft or just press fit, but either way it's not any longer. This explains why I was able to move the truck under electric power, but all hell would break loose as soon as the gas engine would start to drive the truck. Oddly enough none of the gears show any wear or damage.

I'm in the process of double checking all of the bearings. Pulled the sun/plant gears out yesterday and they look fine. This necessated the removal of the starter motor. Those permanent magnets are strong! Ended up pulling the stator first as I could get my hand under it for leverage, but I missed removal of one wire broke it. Haven't flipped the transmission back over to see if it is an easy fix.

Here you go. Very similar to the HF35 from the Fusion.

The large gear in the middle is the top gear on the transfer shaft. The shaft consist of three gears and ties all of the inputs/outputs together.

The shaft at the top of the photo is the input from the electric drive motor. It connects to the top gear on the transfer shaft.

The large gear on the bottom left is the differential that send power to the wheels. It connects to the bottom gear of the transfer shaft.

The smaller gear on the bottom right is the gas engine input, parking mechanism, as well as the starter motor. It connects to the middle gear on the transfer shaft. This is where my issue lies. The middle gear on the transfer shaft is spinning freely (loudly). Not sure if it is splined to the shaft or just press fit, but either way it's not any longer. This explains why I was able to move the truck under electric power, but all hell would break loose as soon as the gas engine would start to drive the truck. Oddly enough none of the gears show any wear or damage.

I'm in the process of double checking all of the bearings. Pulled the sun/plant gears out yesterday and they look fine. This necessated the removal of the starter motor. Those permanent magnets are strong! Ended up pulling the stator first as I could get my hand under it for leverage, but I missed removal of one wire broke it. Haven't flipped the transmission back over to see if it is an easy fix.

I would check on line, or ebay for a complete engine, and transmission from a wrecked Maverick, then pay over 7K from a dealer to repair what is wrong. Now you can find just about any Maverick item you need if you look.

 

[Art Core]

Don't worry. Not dropping a dime at that dealer. Might reach out to Ford to see if they will comp me some parts.
Figured out the easy way to remove the electric motors. A 3" deck screw head and shaft fit perfectly in the slots of the motor. Screwed them in to a short section of 2x4 and pulled it right out. No special tool needed.



Link above shows the gear/shaft issue.

 

[Cherokee]

I would check on line, or ebay for a complete engine, and transmission from a wrecked Maverick, then pay over 7K from a dealer to repair what is wrong. Now you can find just about any Maverick item you need if you look.

Or do what I did as stated in post # 21 and sleep soundly, :’P

 

[BLUEOVALRACER]

Here you go. Very similar to the HF35 from the Fusion.

The large gear in the middle is the top gear on the transfer shaft. The shaft consist of three gears and ties all of the inputs/outputs together.

The shaft at the top of the photo is the input from the electric drive motor. It connects to the top gear on the transfer shaft.

The large gear on the bottom left is the differential that send power to the wheels. It connects to the bottom gear of the transfer shaft.

The smaller gear on the bottom right is the gas engine input, parking mechanism, as well as the starter motor. It connects to the middle gear on the transfer shaft. This is where my issue lies. The middle gear on the transfer shaft is spinning freely (loudly). Not sure if it is splined to the shaft or just press fit, but either way it's not any longer. This explains why I was able to move the truck under electric power, but all hell would break loose as soon as the gas engine would start to drive the truck. Oddly enough none of the gears show any wear or damage.

I'm in the process of double checking all of the bearings. Pulled the sun/plant gears out yesterday and they look fine. This necessated the removal of the starter motor. Those permanent magnets are strong! Ended up pulling the stator first as I could get my hand under it for leverage, but I missed removal of one wire broke it. Haven't flipped the transmission back over to see if it is an easy fix.

Thanks for the Picture very helpful for the Hybrid Owners.

 

[skinnyboy]

Don't worry. Not dropping a dime at that dealer. Might reach out to Ford to see if they will comp me some parts.
Figured out the easy way to remove the electric motors. A 3" deck screw head and shaft fit perfectly in the slots of the motor. Screwed them in to a short section of 2x4 and pulled it right out. No special tool needed.

Link above shows the gear/shaft issue.

Awesome post! Hope the parts are available and it works out.

Cheers.

 

[Art Core]

LX6Z-7H348-B - $707.31 from the dealer. Should arrive later this week.

 

[Finnster]

LX6Z-7H348-B - $707.31 from the dealer. Should arrive later this week.

I hope you will dissect the failed gear and let us know how it failed and how it is constructed. Thanks for sharing this information!

 

[Art Core]

Still waiting on a wire pigtail to come it. In the attached video I show the symptoms of the truck moving under electric power, but failing when the engine kicks on.

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