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I rotated my maverick tires And took off on a 150+ mile journey yesterday, heading back home on the interstate I started to feel a wobble, pulling off on the first exit I saw, driving SLOW (>5Mph) just trying to find any parking lot and a wobble that felt manageable, switched to catastrophic and the wheel f****** dislocated... went off into the ditch (somehow avoiding any other cars, people or motorcycles businesses thank God...) I clearly forgot to torque one of wheels and this is entirely my fault....
again by the grace of God the stock suspension rotor and wheel combo I have kept the ENTIRE truck bottom end off of the ground until it came to a stop... It ate through the dust shield and rotor >2mm but even the lower control arm itself was fine because of the rotor clearance.
Somehow I got it off the street with a flat bed tow truck without getting hit, any further damage and got it off the road to assess my options
Damages:
Fender (used already painted $300), loaded spindle assembly ($155 local salvage 20k miles, the knuckle survived but I'll get to that later...) my Chinese wheel is scraped pretty bad but I could get another for $130 (or just run my factory FX4 wheels. I should probably get hub centric rings too huh)
Brake rotor (probably could cut it but I'm getting one for $50)
I'll get a used dust shield with the spindle, the fender kinked into the a pillar but if I replace the fender and dribble the touch up on it... you would think a rock hit it... Also not the craigslist side so I'm not that worried...
Zero damage to hood, zero damage to door... Will loosen up, and bend the wrecked fender out of way so I can remove the door before opening
Asked for my replacement fender to come with the inner tabs too so that's another loaded assembly.
The front bumper may require a 1" plastic weld on a inner seam but there is zero visible damage to the bumper exterior. I will have to remove the fender liner to be sure but just by pulling on it a bit the mounting tabs for the bumper don't appear to be damaged...
Now something about YOUR steering knuckle.
I understand in my scenario when the truck hit the ground (even if it was less than 7mph) the bearing was shot but now that I am home and have it off ive noticed the most Anti consumer S*** but let's pretend you're working on yours at home and cross threaded ONE STUD
There is NOT ENOUGH SPACE TO KNOCK THE STUDS OUT THE BACK EVEN IF YOU BROKE JUST STUD 1 YOU HAVE TO PRESS THE HUB AND BEARING OUT MOST LIKELY DESTROYING JUST TO RELOAD STUDS!
There's no recess cut to remove them, if you ask for studs at a parts store THERE IS NOT A STUD PART NUMBER. I consider my self some one who has more tools than most AND I live in a major metro in the USA and on a Monday at 11:00am I couldn't find ANYONE with a press other than dealerships who wanted the whole car. Not to mention the hub and bearing from ford is over $250!
So I scored an entire loaded spindle for $100 less than parts alone and am just going to replace that and the fender. And call it a day.
After this I still feel the rates insurance charge are a complete scam, if I made a claim and my rate went up only 25% I could have paid for all the repairs and tow in the first year!
This is a mistake that would bite me for SEVEN YEARS
Ill loose a couple weekends and a thousand bucks before I call those vultures! $155 Spindle + $300 fender $420 (tow 30 miles on a flat bed...) + rotor $50 = $925 vs $75 a month insurance premium increase? $900 the first year... No thanks!
I CANT BELIEVE how much worse this could have gone and didn't..... what an ignorant mistake! it's too dark and had just about the worst day of my life but man it could have turned out so much worse over all... I'll upload more pictures and maybe a video but my parts are all on the way and my truck is safe at home...
Lesson...s.... learned....
PULL OVER NOW NOT LATER
TORQUE ALL 4 WHEELS TWICE
SLOW DOWN ITS NOT A RACE TO GET HOME ITS A RACE TO GET TO THE BANK!!!
This will NOT be a insurance quality body shop repair but it will get me back on the road and happy that I still have MY truck and can aFford to work on it even if there's some dumb designs...
A $120 BEARING!
again by the grace of God the stock suspension rotor and wheel combo I have kept the ENTIRE truck bottom end off of the ground until it came to a stop... It ate through the dust shield and rotor >2mm but even the lower control arm itself was fine because of the rotor clearance.
Somehow I got it off the street with a flat bed tow truck without getting hit, any further damage and got it off the road to assess my options
Damages:
Fender (used already painted $300), loaded spindle assembly ($155 local salvage 20k miles, the knuckle survived but I'll get to that later...) my Chinese wheel is scraped pretty bad but I could get another for $130 (or just run my factory FX4 wheels. I should probably get hub centric rings too huh)
Brake rotor (probably could cut it but I'm getting one for $50)
I'll get a used dust shield with the spindle, the fender kinked into the a pillar but if I replace the fender and dribble the touch up on it... you would think a rock hit it... Also not the craigslist side so I'm not that worried...
Zero damage to hood, zero damage to door... Will loosen up, and bend the wrecked fender out of way so I can remove the door before opening
Asked for my replacement fender to come with the inner tabs too so that's another loaded assembly.
The front bumper may require a 1" plastic weld on a inner seam but there is zero visible damage to the bumper exterior. I will have to remove the fender liner to be sure but just by pulling on it a bit the mounting tabs for the bumper don't appear to be damaged...
Now something about YOUR steering knuckle.
I understand in my scenario when the truck hit the ground (even if it was less than 7mph) the bearing was shot but now that I am home and have it off ive noticed the most Anti consumer S*** but let's pretend you're working on yours at home and cross threaded ONE STUD
There is NOT ENOUGH SPACE TO KNOCK THE STUDS OUT THE BACK EVEN IF YOU BROKE JUST STUD 1 YOU HAVE TO PRESS THE HUB AND BEARING OUT MOST LIKELY DESTROYING JUST TO RELOAD STUDS!
There's no recess cut to remove them, if you ask for studs at a parts store THERE IS NOT A STUD PART NUMBER. I consider my self some one who has more tools than most AND I live in a major metro in the USA and on a Monday at 11:00am I couldn't find ANYONE with a press other than dealerships who wanted the whole car. Not to mention the hub and bearing from ford is over $250!
So I scored an entire loaded spindle for $100 less than parts alone and am just going to replace that and the fender. And call it a day.
After this I still feel the rates insurance charge are a complete scam, if I made a claim and my rate went up only 25% I could have paid for all the repairs and tow in the first year!
This is a mistake that would bite me for SEVEN YEARS
Ill loose a couple weekends and a thousand bucks before I call those vultures! $155 Spindle + $300 fender $420 (tow 30 miles on a flat bed...) + rotor $50 = $925 vs $75 a month insurance premium increase? $900 the first year... No thanks!I CANT BELIEVE how much worse this could have gone and didn't..... what an ignorant mistake! it's too dark and had just about the worst day of my life but man it could have turned out so much worse over all... I'll upload more pictures and maybe a video but my parts are all on the way and my truck is safe at home...
Lesson...s.... learned....
PULL OVER NOW NOT LATER
TORQUE ALL 4 WHEELS TWICE
SLOW DOWN ITS NOT A RACE TO GET HOME ITS A RACE TO GET TO THE BANK!!!
This will NOT be a insurance quality body shop repair but it will get me back on the road and happy that I still have MY truck and can aFford to work on it even if there's some dumb designs...
A $120 BEARING!Sponsored
