Full audio upgrade complete

[PCK]

Why would the tweeter receive anymore strain or damage than the factory setup since this taps into the OEM wiring it’s not changing anything other than the rms wattage correct?
...

If you look at the back of the stock tweeter, there is a capacitor wired in there- effectively a High Pass filter or crossover (or "bass blocker"). The Focals do not have the capacitor- they have the cross over as a High Pass Filter. So the Focals are unprotected compared to the stock tweeters.

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[Justingreenville]

If you look at the back of the stock tweeter, there is a capacitor wired in there- effectively a High Pass filter or crossover (or "bass blocker"). The Focals do not have the capacitor- they have the cross over as a High Pass Filter. So the Focals are unprotected compared to the stock tweeters.

Completely understand with the focals but these kicker I wanna use have a inline crossover on the harness which will correct the problem correct?

 

[PCK]

[QUOTE=" kicker I wanna use have a inline crossover on the harness which will correct the problem correct?
[/QUOTE]
If used in bi-amp mode, the amp (not the harness) has a cross over but then you are only powering the front pair of midranges and tweeters. Need another amp or use the stock radio for the rears.

 

[Justingreenville]

[QUOTE=" kicker I wanna use have a inline crossover on the harness which will correct the problem correct?

If used in bi-amp mode, the amp (not the harness) has a cross over but then you are only powering the front pair of midranges and tweeters. Need another amp or use the stock radio for the rears.
[/QUOTE]
Kicker key 200.4 uses stock harness and just increases watts I believe. So however the factory is configured with the tweeters and door speakers however that’s split between the front channel it will be the same the speakers will have higher rms wattage than factory. Also the rms watts are increase by the key amp from I would guess 25 rms factory to 50rms amplified from kicker key ( this amp takes factory signal from head unit and amplifies it to the speaks after the amp

im an electrician not audio specialist but I’m gonna build this system and am trying to comprehend what I need and why.

so anyone who can help me in layman’s terms will be great.

with a kicker key 200.4 amp wiring into factory harness using using Hoel harness (amplifies speakers and equalizes them after the head unit before the speakers) with upgraded all 6 speakers do I need anything additional to make this thing work properly and perform adequate

 

[fastducky]

If used in bi-amp mode, the amp (not the harness) has a cross over but then you are only powering the front pair of midranges and tweeters. Need another amp or use the stock radio for the rears.

Kicker key 200.4 uses stock harness and just increases watts I believe. So however the factory is configured with the tweeters and door speakers however that’s split between the front channel it will be the same the speakers will have higher rms wattage than factory. Also the rms watts are increase by the key amp from I would guess 25 rms factory to 50rms amplified from kicker key ( this amp takes factory signal from head unit and amplifies it to the speaks after the amp

im an electrician not audio specialist but I’m gonna build this system and am trying to comprehend what I need and why.

so anyone who can help me in layman’s terms will be great.

with a kicker key 200.4 amp wiring into factory harness using using Hoel harness (amplifies speakers and equalizes them after the head unit before the speakers) with upgraded all 6 speakers do I need anything additional to make this thing work properly and perform adequate
[/QUOTE]
Many are over thinking this. The kicker key equalizes the speakers. I didn't even upgrade rear speakers. I have the fader slightly to the front. The sound after the upgrade is amazing. I have not had the stereo louder than "18" on the volume. I like clear, consise music . You will not be disappointed.

 

[Justingreenville]

Kicker key 200.4 uses stock harness and just increases watts I believe. So however the factory is configured with the tweeters and door speakers however that’s split between the front channel it will be the same the speakers will have higher rms wattage than factory. Also the rms watts are increase by the key amp from I would guess 25 rms factory to 50rms amplified from kicker key ( this amp takes factory signal from head unit and amplifies it to the speaks after the amp

im an electrician not audio specialist but I’m gonna build this system and am trying to comprehend what I need and why.

so anyone who can help me in layman’s terms will be great.

with a kicker key 200.4 amp wiring into factory harness using using Hoel harness (amplifies speakers and equalizes them after the head unit before the speakers) with upgraded all 6 speakers do I need anything additional to make this thing work properly and perform adequate

Many are over thinking this. The kicker key equalizes the speakers. I didn't even upgrade rear speakers. I have the fader slightly to the front. The sound after the upgrade is amazing. I have not had the stereo louder than "18" on the volume. I like clear, consise music . You will not be disappointed.
[/QUOTE]
Amen brother I agree I know I am certainly overthinking it because as you know most of us will wait several months to get our trucks. I am a music lover and wasn’t paying 3000 for b/o system when it isn’t that great to start.

thanks for posting this I never would have knew about the key 200.4 amp or harness

 

[fastducky]

Many are over thinking this. The kicker key equalizes the speakers. I didn't even upgrade rear speakers. I have the fader slightly to the front. The sound after the upgrade is amazing. I have not had the stereo louder than "18" on the volume. I like clear, consise music . You will not be disappointed.

Amen brother I agree I know I am certainly overthinking it because as you know most of us will wait several months to get our trucks. I am a music lover and wasn’t paying 3000 for b/o system when it isn’t that great to start.

thanks for posting this I never would have knew about the key 200.4 amp or harness
[/QUOTE]
I love the harness! Pricey but made the install so much easier. I messaged him 12 times with noob questions. He responded even at midnight...lol. The ability to just plug everything together was fantastic.

 

[Darnon]

Completely understand with the focals but these kicker I wanna use have a inline crossover on the harness which will correct the problem correct?

Yes, the in-line capacitor like those Kickers use would also work. Or just get a component set and pop open the crossover box to steal the filter cap out of it for discrete use. They're usually pretty simple internally. For instance the Focal crossover looks like it literally only has two components in it.

 

[Justingreenville]

Yes, the in-line capacitor like those Kickers use would also work. Or just get a component set and pop open the crossover box to steal the filter cap out of it for discrete use. They're usually pretty simple internally. For instance the Focal crossover looks like it literally only has two components in it.

Awesome thanks now I feel better going forward with the full kicker setup

Also anyone know if the 8 inch kicker. Or 10 kicker underwear sub amp combo?

 

[kcamp317]

This is good stuff, great info. We recently had a new bronco sport big bend as a rental with the basic audio setup thats similar to the mavericks non B&O sound system. I noticed its pretty weak and muddy sounding even with maxing out the bass/treble/and midrange about 3/4.

I think I'd be ok with some front door speaker upgrades whenever I get my maverick in and the kicker key and that plug and play harness looks good and avoids cutting any factory wiring which is something I want to avoid while adding some power to the system. I really don't see much need to upgrade the rear speakers in my case but I may later on as well. AS you mentioned I don't think I'll need a sub, just more full and powerful music watts and better speakers to replace the microscopic magnet factory speakers they come with.

Ill admit I'm a little intimidated with not breaking the OEM tweeter grills and hacking anything up while messing with those but the rest seems pretty easy and a worthwhile upgrade.

 

[Justingreenville]

This is good stuff, great info. We recently had a new bronco sport big bend as a rental with the basic audio setup thats similar to the mavericks non B&O sound system. I noticed its pretty weak and muddy sounding even with maxing out the bass/treble/and midrange about 3/4.

I think I'd be ok with some front door speaker upgrades whenever I get my maverick in and the kicker key and that plug and play harness looks good and avoids cutting any factory wiring which is something I want to avoid while adding some power to the system. I really don't see much need to upgrade the rear speakers in my case but I may later on as well. AS you mentioned I don't think I'll need a sub, just more full and powerful music watts and better speakers to replace the microscopic magnet factory speakers they come with.

Ill admit I'm a little intimidated with not breaking the OEM tweeter grills and hacking anything up while messing with those but the rest seems pretty easy and a worthwhile upgrade.

bright side is if the front door replacement Speakers may have build in tweeters and may Be no need to change the tweeters with the key amp upgrade

 

[colinl]

bright side is if the front door replacement Speakers may have build in tweeters and may Be no need to change the tweeters with the key amp upgrade

you actually could do that, yes. you can buy a component set and disconnect the dash tweeters, and put the component tweeter on the door panel, b pillar trim, whatever you like. and install the crossover in the door assuming it fits which most will. (years ago I had a set of components that had a 24db/oct crossover with bi-amp support. 4 wires in, 4 wires out, outline similar to a large smartphone in an Otterbox. that one wouldn't go in the door, I bet.)

or honestly you could disconnect the dash tweeters and use coaxials. I think it would sound OK at high volume but at lower volume, especially for passengers, the driver's side tweeter in a coaxial is going to fire into your legs and it'll be muffled. it's really easy to put the tweeter on the door panel though so I'd use components. b pillar slightly harder, maybe 30 min.

 

[JiMav]

I installed Morel Maximo Ultra component speakers up front and Kicker 4" KS series rear speakers (all from Crutchfield on sale) this weekend and it made an incredible difference. I connected the crossover to the tweeters only and was able to stash the crossovers under the stock tweeter location. Couldn't believe how crappy the stock speakers were when I took them out - junk. I am thinking of adding a powered sub and a 4 channel amp in the future but wanted to see what difference the new speakers alone would make. Night and day though it would be nice to have a bit more bottom. Next step will probably be to add a modest powered sub and see if I want to go on from there with an amp, but I think it will be fine for my old ears without the amp.

Since this I added an Infinity Kappa 5 channel 500w amp, AudioControl LC71 Line Converter and a 8" 4ohm JL subwoofer in a .35 cu.ft. enclosure. Complete transformation - incredible, full range sound. Sound is clear and on point no matter the volume

 

[jayrx7trbo2]

I finally upgraded the sound system in my xl maverick. The stock sound is awful. Terrible.
Kicker key 200.4 amp. $250 Best Buy.

Focal component speakers ( front doors and dash) RSE-165. $149 CRUTCHFIELD.

tweeter harness . Metra 72-5600. $15 for two. CRUTCHFIELD.

Rockville 8" . 400 watt powered sub woofer. $100 . Amazon.

Complete harness that connects radio to amp and subwoofer. $180
https://hoelwiring.com/#MainContent

The hoel harness may seem expensive but it's such a time saver. All in one to hook up everything. I only had to run two power leads from battery and run two ground wires. The customer service is outstanding. Even answered my many noob questions at midnight !

I bought the Boss amp kit for $20 on Amazon. The Rockville sub came with a wiring kit.

$5. At harbor freight for heat shrink tubing.

I took my time and install wasn't too bad. The tweeters actually caused the most cursing.

The kicker key amp is amazing. It automatically balances the audio.

I am not exaggerating....the sound is 5 times better than stock. Simply fantastic!!!

I was wondering if you could just do a mount behind the rear seat and not use the cubbys

 

[jayrx7trbo2]

Lol. If you have any questions, just ask. I watched every video and still had questions. I only broke one tab. By the tweeter, drivers side. Learned my lesson for other side.

any issue getting the replacement tweeters to sit in factory spot?

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