Full audio upgrade complete

[JBONE]

Thanks colinl. Phase was correct (not way to revers with Crutchfield connector) and no short to ground. Already returned.

Sponsored

 

[colinl]

Thanks colinl. Phase was correct (not way to revers with Crutchfield connector) and no short to ground. Already returned.

Well, that's interesting, but I'm 100% certain that your conclusion that the stock speakers are better is wrong.

The rse165 is way better than the base 6.5 and also way better than the b&o 6.5. To me the most likely explanation is that you installed something incorrectly, but I guess you just didn't like them.

 

[jdmz]

Maybe muddy Bass sounds like lower bass. The RSE 165 when amplified punches so hard that my ears hurt. I now have JL audio subwoofers to take care of the frequencies below 60, but down to 60 hz the RSE 165 is amazing.

 

[hemming1]

Maybe muddy Bass sounds like lower bass. The RSE 165 when amplified punches so hard that my ears hurt. I now have JL audio subwoofers to take care of the frequencies below 60, but down to 60 hz the RSE 165 is amazing.

I had to take my doors apart a second time and start hot gluing everything in sight because the RSE 165s were vibrating everything. They still are, but it's tolerable now. I consider it a "safety feature" for my ears.

 

[pfarticus]

I have the same focal component speakers. The issue is with the maverick, the door and tweeters speakers are connected to the same wires coming from the head unit. I'm trying to locate each seperate pair to connect the crossovers to. The crossover has a woofer and tweeter output, and I'm researching how to locate the wires to connect to each individual speaker.

 

[hemming1]

I have the same focal component speakers. The issue is with the maverick, the door and tweeters speakers are connected to the same wires coming from the head unit. I'm trying to locate each seperate pair to connect the crossovers to. The crossover has a woofer and tweeter output, and I'm researching how to locate the wires to connect to each individual speaker.

Do make sure to review this thread fully, as this topic is touched on. If you are just upgrading factory woofers in the door and tweeters in the dash (with no head unit upgrades or amps), you are going to do far more unnecessary work trying to trace the factory harnesses. The head units uses the same "raw" signals to both the woofer and tweeters because the factory tweeters have capacitors filterinh bass and acting as a pseudo crossover. If you place the Focal RSE crossovers inline just with the tweeter harness, you'll be golden. The door woofers are plug and play.

 

[pfarticus]

Do make sure to review this thread fully, as this topic is touched on. If you are just upgrading factory woofers in the door and tweeters in the dash (with no head unit upgrades or amps), you are going to do far more unnecessary work trying to trace the factory harnesses. The head units uses the same "raw" signals to both the woofer and tweeters because the factory tweeters have capacitors filterinh bass and acting as a pseudo crossover. If you place the Focal RSE crossovers inline just with the tweeter harness, you'll be golden. The door woofers are plug and play.

your assumption is incorrect.

My set up is headunit
Headunit front signals to dsp
Dsp to amp, amp, to front speakers (L/R)

Goal is:
head unit -> dsp -> amp -> crossover (each with one input (+/-)
Crossover has a tweeter output and woofer output. Basically 2 wires in / 4 wires out.


I’ve already have the tweeters and door woofers installed with no issues on the plug and play harnesses.

the signal from the amp is high pass to the fronts , and need to get need to get door woofers more mids sound, hence the crossover and set amp back to default. Let the crossover do all the work.

Im trying to locate where the front L/R split for the tweeter and door speaker.

 

[colinl]

your assumption is incorrect.

My set up is headunit
Headunit front signals to dsp
Dsp to amp, amp, to front speakers (L/R)

Goal is:
head unit -> dsp -> amp -> crossover (each with one input (+/-)
Crossover has a tweeter output and woofer output. Basically 2 wires in / 4 wires out.


I’ve already have the tweeters and door woofers installed with no issues on the plug and play harnesses.

the signal from the amp is high pass to the fronts , and need to get need to get door woofers more mids sound, hence the crossover and set amp back to default. Let the crossover do all the work.

Im trying to locate where the front L/R split for the tweeter and door speaker.

what DSP and amps? do you have electronic crossover in either DSP or amp? do you have the ability to bi amp?

if you can bi amp you don't need the passive crossover.

 

[pfarticus]

what DSP and amps? do you have electronic crossover in either DSP or amp? do you have the ability to bi amp?

if you can bi amp you don't need the passive crossover.

Hi and thanks for your input,

I have a AudioControl LC2i (non-pro) and Alpine S-A32F S-Series 4-Channel Digital Amplifier.

Head unit signal is (L/R) fronts into LC2i; 4 wires L+/- and R +/-
LC2i as two outputs (one main, and one bass).
Output from DSP to AMP
--Main RCA -> ch. 1 & 2 on amp
--Bass RCA -> ch. 3 & 4 on amp

Output from amp to speakers (ch. 1 & 2 set to high pass / ch. 3 & 4 set to low pass)
--ch 1 -> front left
--ch 2 -> front right
--ch 3 & 4 bridged for sub

Objective:
Output ch 1 & 2 from amp (set to default frequency pass / not high or low) to go to each front (2) external crossovers
Each crossover has one input, and two outputs (tweeter/woofer)
Locating the individual pairs for each tweeter and woofer on the L/R.

I think this is the issue with everyone thinking the focals are not that good. mids frequency are not going to the door woofers and/or tweeters are getting a wider range of frequencies instead of just highs.

I've seen youTubers, installing the 3rd party tweeters in the door to get the crossovers connected and leaving the OEM dash tweeters in; which i don't want to do.

 

[colinl]

Hi and thanks for your input,

I have a AudioControl LC2i (non-pro) and Alpine S-A32F S-Series 4-Channel Digital Amplifier.

Head unit signal is (L/R) fronts into LC2i; 4 wires L+/- and R +/-
LC2i as two outputs (one main, and one bass).
Output from DSP to AMP
--Main RCA -> ch. 1 & 2 on amp
--Bass RCA -> ch. 3 & 4 on amp

Output from amp to speakers (ch. 1 & 2 set to high pass / ch. 3 & 4 set to low pass)
--ch 1 -> front left
--ch 2 -> front right
--ch 3 & 4 bridged for sub

Objective:
Output ch 1 & 2 from amp (set to default frequency pass / not high or low) to go to each front (2) external crossovers
Each crossover has one input, and two outputs (tweeter/woofer)
Locating the individual pairs for each tweeter and woofer on the L/R.

I think this is the issue with everyone thinking the focals are not that good. mids frequency are not going to the door woofers and/or tweeters are getting a wider range of frequencies instead of just highs.

I've seen youTubers, installing the 3rd party tweeters in the door to get the crossovers connected and leaving the OEM dash tweeters in; which i don't want to do.

lc2i does have accubass so it's not just a dumb line-out converter, but it wasn't what I was thinking of when you said you had a dsp. also in looking at your amp, it doesn't support bi-amping and the built-in crossover can't be adjusted high enough to run a tweeter directly. specs say:
variable high- and low-pass filters (50-400 Hz, 12 dB/octave)

you would need to crossover at like 3khz to bi-amp a tweeter. some 4+ channel amps have a specific mode for bi-amp and you don't actually set the crossover frequency for the tweeter, the amp just does it automatically. yours doesn't do that.

anyway-
wired up like this you will need to use the focal crossover. I have never seen a person that has found the factory split on the non-B&O system between the door 6.5 and the dash tweeter, so I'm assuming you can't find it, either. It's probably in a wire bundle somewhere under the dash.

if you have a plug and play harness you will need to splice into it manually and intercept the FR and FL speaker outputs and insert the Focal crossover there. Make sure you know what is where, and that you're tapping into the output after, not the input before the T harness. Run new speaker wire through dash using end covers to access.

Front right speaker from harness -> Focal crossover input
Focal crossover midrange output -> Back into the FR speaker output
Focal crossover tweeter output -> New speaker wire to focal tweeter

Test, then repeat for front left output.

 

[pfarticus]

You got that spot on, with below

........I have never seen a person that has found the factory split on the non-B&O system between the door 6.5 and the dash tweeter, so I'm assuming you can't find it, either. It's probably in a wire bundle somewhere under the dash.

the door speaker wires will probably be the easiest to direct wire to the crossover. the tweeters, who knows how easy it will be?!

Sponsored