Full audio upgrade complete

[fastducky]

To clarify, you did not use the 12 db high-pass passive crossovers that came with the Focal set but used the Kicker Key in bi-amp mode so that it used the 24db at 3500 Hz active crossovers, correct?

But is bi-amp mode, you only powered the front door speakers and tweeters with the Kicker Key amp, also correct?

I did not use the crossovers. Still in the box. I actually did not use bi-amp mode. Amp is powering rear, front doors and tweeters in dash. After running the kicker key pink noise from their app, I am very happy with how the amp balanced all the sound

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[PCK]

I did not use the crossovers. Still in the box. I actually did not use bi-amp mode. Amp is powering rear, front doors and tweeters in dash. After running the kicker key pink noise from their app, I am very happy with how the amp balanced all the sound

So you are running full range to tweeters? Not generally a good long-term solution. Midrange will naturally taper off at high frequencies (that is why the Focal passive crossover does not contain a low-pass filter) as will the tweeter for low frequencies but some type of high-pass filter is generally necessary to protect the tweeters from trying to reproducer LF sounds.

I believe the equalization in the Kicker Key will balance power to each of the drivers so that the natural roll off of the midrange and the tweeter will give reasonable frequency response but the tweeter will be straining to produce the LF sent to them. Perhaps should use the Focal passive crossover for the tweeters.

 

[fastducky]

So you are running full range to tweeters? Not generally a good long-term solution. Midrange will naturally taper off at high frequencies (that is why the Focal passive crossover does not contain a low-pass filter) as will the tweeter for low frequencies but some type of high-pass filter is generally necessary to protect the tweeters from trying to reproducer LF sounds.

I believe the equalization in the Kicker Key will balance power to each of the drivers so that the natural roll off of the midrange and the tweeter will give reasonable frequency response but the tweeter will be straining to produce the LF sent to them. Perhaps should use the Focal passive crossover for the tweeters.

You are worried about the tweeter straining over the long term? I am good with the lil tweeter....lol. I have faith in him.

 

[colinl]

You are worried about the tweeter straining over the long term? I am good with the lil tweeter....lol. I have faith in him.

I agree with him about the tweeter. So you're using the hoel harness to split out input to the amp and then the amp speaker output goes back into the acim harness to use the stock speaker wiring, correct? I have looked at the hoel and believe he offers that as an option but I didn't use one since I have the b&o system.

I'm confused as to how your wiring would work since it's 6 channels and the amp has 4. I wonder if the amp isn't actually powering 2 of the 6 speakers and those are still just on the factory head unit.

 

[Darnon]

I'm confused as to how your wiring would work since it's 6 channels and the amp has 4. I wonder if the amp isn't actually powering 2 of the 6 speakers and those are still just on the factory head unit.

Sounds like they are just retaining the factory setup with the tweeters/woofers in parallel. Those split off closer to the a-pillars, I believe, so there's really only "4-channels" of wiring going to the factory audio module. As such the Key can just plug in in-line to power all 6.

 

[All4spl]

The factory NON-Sync3 stereo is only 4 channels, each front door is paralleled to the corresponding tweeter on that side. And I agree not using the crossover is a possible issue, the tweeter has a frequency range it can reproduce (generally around 8khz - 20khz) and if you are sending a FULL range signal to it you will eventually damage it. Granted the time period till tweeter failure will depend on type of music listened to, equalization and volume level. It could last years like this or a couple weeks.

 

[colinl]

Aha, yes, I'm not familiar with the stock / non-B&O system.

Maybe the ideal thing to do would be to find where that split happens and wire the Focal crossover in there. I am pretty sure there is not any room to tuck the crossover under the grille, but maybe a separate bass blocker would be small enough.

 

[Justingreenville]

Why would the tweeter receive anymore strain or damage than the factory setup since this taps into the OEM wiring it’s not changing anything other than the rms wattage correct?
Even with the kicker key correct me if I’m wrong and upgraded tweeters not should be build to handle it?

im no expert but I’m considering doing this set up and I feel like y’all put a rock in my boot if I am wrong then what’s the solution

I’m planning on doing the key 200.4 setup with these speakers
1)Kicker 46cst204 tweeters 50 watt rms
2)Kicker 46csc674 door speakers 100 watt rms
3)Kicker csc4 pillar speakers 50 watt rms
4)Kicker 46hs10 hideaway sub/ amp combo

as well as using the hoel harness set up.
I listened to the speakers on crutch field and they sound just as good maybe better than the focals and very affordable and well I want all one brand and it just seem to fit for me. 1000$ set up but if ima blow the tweeters or if this isn’t gonna work man I’d sure love to
Know or how I can fix it

any suggestions

 

[fastducky]

Why would the tweeter receive anymore strain or damage than the factory setup since this taps into the OEM wiring it’s not changing anything other than the rms wattage correct?
Even with the kicker key correct me if I’m wrong and upgraded tweeters not should be build to handle it?

im no expert but I’m considering doing this set up and I feel like y’all put a rock in my boot if I am wrong then what’s the solution

I’m planning on doing the key 200.4 setup with these speakers
1)Kicker 46cst204 tweeters 50 watt rms
2)Kicker 46csc674 door speakers 100 watt rms
3)Kicker csc4 pillar speakers 50 watt rms
4)Kicker 46hs10 hideaway sub/ amp combo

as well as using the hoel harness set up.
I listened to the speakers on crutch field and they sound just as good maybe better than the focals and very affordable and well I want all one brand and it just seem to fit for me. 1000$ set up but if ima blow the tweeters or if this isn’t gonna work man I’d sure love to
Know or how I can fix it

any suggestions

No reason it will blow the tweeters. Hoel harness hooks up to factory harness. So it's no different than stock, just powering everything with the amp.

In fact, anyone want the Focal crossovers for free? I have the crossovers and a box full of leftover stuff. Speaker wire, rca cables and numerous fittings. I would rather not throw it all away.

 

[Justingreenville]

No reason it will blow the tweeters. Hoel harness hooks up to factory harness. So it's no different than stock, just powering everything with the amp.

In fact, anyone want the Focal crossovers for free? I have the crossovers and a box full of leftover stuff. Speaker wire, rca cables and numerous fittings. I would rather not throw it all away.

So the frequency issue was present in spite of a upgrade therefore isn’t a major issue just a potential one?

 

[Darnon]

Why would the tweeter receive anymore strain or damage than the factory setup since this taps into the OEM wiring it’s not changing anything other than the rms wattage correct?

The stock tweeters have bass blocking capacitors installed on them (they're soldered on the back next to the connector). Aftermarkets, especially intended to be used with a crossover, may not.

 

[Justingreenville]

The stock tweeters have bass blocking capacitors installed on them (they're soldered on the back next to the connector). Aftermarkets, especially intended to be used with a crossover, may not.

i understand now completely so I can leave the stock tweeters and be fine or upgrade to tweeters with bass blocking capacitors built In?

 

[Justingreenville]

i understand now completely so I can leave the stock tweeters and be fine or upgrade to tweeters with bass blocking capacitors built In?

 

[colinl]

component speakers have a separate crossover and mounting it inside a door panel is very easy: find a space, double-stick tape the hell out of it, forget about it. when the tweeter is on the dash and you're trying to re-use the stock wiring (because wiring into the dash is frankly insane), you then have to find a good place near the tweeter's speaker wire to insert the crossover. there is definitely not room for them under the speaker grille on the dashboard.

that's what I was talking about back in reply #37

... it's just math. you could figure out the specs of the capacitor used in the crossover and get your own, and soldier it just like the factory tweeter. there could be phase issues but at least the tweeter won't get damaged from trying to play low frequencies.

 

[Justingreenville]

component speakers have a separate crossover and mounting it inside a door panel is very easy: find a space, double-stick tape the hell out of it, forget about it. when the tweeter is on the dash and you're trying to re-use the stock wiring (because wiring into the dash is frankly insane), you then have to find a good place near the tweeter's speaker wire to insert the crossover. there is definitely not room for them under the speaker grille on the dashboard.

that's what I was talking about back in reply #37

... it's just math. you could figure out the specs of the capacitor used in the crossover and get your own, and soldier it just like the factory tweeter. there could be phase issues but at least the tweeter won't get damaged from trying to play low frequencies.

This kicker cs model tweeter has a built in crossover on the wiring harness from watching videos I’m sure I can stuff it in the dash under the tweeter correct?

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