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Thanks - this is great!

Is anyone considering using a rear dashcam that doubles as a rearview mirror replacement? I think you can get ones with the screen that fits over the existing mirror or that replaces the mirror itself.
No, sounds terrible
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Thanks - this is great!

Is anyone considering using a rear dashcam that doubles as a rearview mirror replacement? I think you can get ones with the screen that fits over the existing mirror or that replaces the mirror itself.
I've looked at those also. Are you looking at a particular one?
 
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clavicus

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No, sounds terrible
I agree that rear view mirror are less *optimal* since they sit relatively very far away from the glass of the windshield, you are getting a significant amount of reflection and a little less road sight if the viewing angle hits the A-pillars. They seem generally of lower quality compared to the more popular dashcams from the top brands in terms of resolution and features.

However, I'll say it again, any dashcam is better than no dashcam :) If that type tickles your fancy get it asap instead of waiting for something else. You'll learn if it works for you or not pretty quick.
 

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I installed my dash cam today and used the bolt (2 to choose from) behind the side dash piece just to the upper right of the fuse panel. This faces the passenger door. You have to remove it to run the wire anyways. I did not like the metal on plastic below the fuse panel.
 

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Installed my dash cam and mirror today! Thank you for the help @clavicus it went smoothly because of your guidance!
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Installed my dash cam and mirror today! Thank you for the help @clavicus it went smoothly because of your guidance!
DE02B6D4-CBAB-4097-A7B6-57AA9B64A4EC.jpeg
Awesome! Did you do a rear camera as well?
 
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Awesome! Did you do a rear camera as well?
Yep! Routing that cable behind the rear trim was the hardest part of the whole process for me. Holy cow some of those roof liner tolerances are tight…
 
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Yep! Routing that cable behind the rear trim was the hardest part of the whole process for me. Holy cow some of those roof liner tolerances are tight…
Did you route along the top liner for the rear camera rather than the lower door trim?
 

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Did you route along the top liner for the rear camera rather than the lower door trim?
Yea which is why I think I ran into more issues… but it worked!
 

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Thanks - this is great!

Is anyone considering using a rear dashcam that doubles as a rearview mirror replacement? I think you can get ones with the screen that fits over the existing mirror or that replaces the mirror itself.
Yes. Just installed mine last night, took about 15 minutes. I had it in my Sport Trac for about two years and love it. Jeemak 7" touchscreen. Hardly noticable and gives a larger view than stock mirror. I did not install the rear camera yet, and may not, just the built in front camera.

Looks like they are around $55 on Ebay.

PXL_20220411_000741790.jpg
 
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I have a Vantrue X1 that I have used every day for almost 5 years now with few, minor issues. This is the first vehicle I have attempted to hardwire power for it, though. Every other previous application had the dash cam plugged into the auxiliary power outlet.

I ordered their hardwire kit with the fuse tap connectors. Got everything installed just fine using Fuse 3 for the auto-dimming mirror.

It seems that consistently every other time I turn my truck on, the dash cam does not turn on. If I disconnect the USB connector going into the dash cam and reconnect it, it turns on.

Any ideas? Bad ground? Maybe bad cable?
 

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I have a Vantrue X1 that I have used every day for almost 5 years now with few, minor issues. This is the first vehicle I have attempted to hardwire power for it, though. Every other previous application had the dash cam plugged into the auxiliary power outlet.

I ordered their hardwire kit with the fuse tap connectors. Got everything installed just fine using Fuse 3 for the auto-dimming mirror.

It seems that consistently every other time I turn my truck on, the dash cam does not turn on. If I disconnect the USB connector going into the dash cam and reconnect it, it turns on.

Any ideas? Bad ground? Maybe bad cable?
Hmm. I also wired my 7" Touchscreen dashcam to fuse 3 and have not had any issues with it turning on. I used this kit Amazon.com: MEKNIC Dash Cam Hardwire Kit Mini USB Dash Cam Hardwire for Car Dash Cam 12V-32V to 5V 2A Mini Car Dash Camera Hardwire with Battery Protection 11.5FT ,4 Fuse Tap Cables : Electronics

Not sure on the ground? I used the spot I circled in green for ground.

fusepanel.jpeg
 

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Hmm. I also wired my 7" Touchscreen dashcam to fuse 3 and have not had any issues with it turning on. I used this kit Amazon.com: MEKNIC Dash Cam Hardwire Kit Mini USB Dash Cam Hardwire for Car Dash Cam 12V-32V to 5V 2A Mini Car Dash Camera Hardwire with Battery Protection 11.5FT ,4 Fuse Tap Cables : Electronics

Not sure on the ground? I used the spot I circled in green for ground.

fusepanel.jpeg
Thanks for the response. I also used that ground. Some people previously mentioned (here or another thread) that they did not trust that as a ground point and wanted to use a point near the passenger door on the frame.

Good to know that your setup is how I have mine. Maybe I just have a bad connector on my dash cam mount. That did change as I did not pull the adhesive off of my old car.

Looks like your kit is more or less the same as mine: Amazon: Vantrue 11.5ft Mini USB Dash Cam Hardwire Kit

Will continue to troubleshoot.
 
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I have a Vantrue X1 that I have used every day for almost 5 years now with few, minor issues. This is the first vehicle I have attempted to hardwire power for it, though. Every other previous application had the dash cam plugged into the auxiliary power outlet.

I ordered their hardwire kit with the fuse tap connectors. Got everything installed just fine using Fuse 3 for the auto-dimming mirror.

It seems that consistently every other time I turn my truck on, the dash cam does not turn on. If I disconnect the USB connector going into the dash cam and reconnect it, it turns on.

Any ideas? Bad ground? Maybe bad cable?
That's pretty weird. If you still have the USB cable handy for it, I would recommend using that for a few days until you can confirm that the issue does not happen using USB cable to USB port directly.

If you do confirm it's working correctly using that cable, then my only thought that comes to mind is to wonder if the 12v to 5v downstepper brick from the hardwire kit (which also has the voltage-checking component for parking mode edit: your hardwire kit doesn't have parking option) might be faulty. If you bought it on Amazon, I'd order another one and test it, and then send back one of them if the issue still isn't resolved, and reach out to more electronic wizards to see if they have any ideas.

EDIT: Further thought -- that hardwire kit brick can detect 12v or 24v. Maybe on startup, it gets a relatively high voltage spike, and is looking for 24v signal, but it sees a signal that is much lower thereafter, so it doesn't pass along power? I'm honestly clueless about how those circuitries work. I know in my truck, voltage from battery to fuses were above 14v while running, from what I remember when testing with my multimeter.

EDIT2: Potential setting to poke and test is the "delay startup" that may or may not be an option on your Vantrue model.
 
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Mojorayy

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That's pretty weird. If you still have the USB cable handy for it, I would recommend using that for a few days until you can confirm that the issue does not happen using USB cable to USB port directly.

If you do confirm it's working correctly using that cable, then my only thought that comes to mind is to wonder if the 12v to 5v downstepper brick from the hardwire kit (which also has the voltage-checking component for parking mode edit: your hardwire kit doesn't have parking option) might be faulty. If you bought it on Amazon, I'd order another one and test it, and then send back one of them if the issue still isn't resolved, and reach out to more electronic wizards to see if they have any ideas.

EDIT: Further thought -- that hardwire kit brick can detect 12v or 24v. Maybe on startup, it gets a relatively high voltage spike, and is looking for 24v signal, but it sees a signal that is much lower thereafter, so it doesn't pass along power? I'm honestly clueless about how those circuitries work. I know in my truck, voltage from battery to fuses were above 14v while running, from what I remember when testing with my multimeter.

EDIT2: Potential setting to poke and test is the "delay startup" that may or may not be an option on your Vantrue model.
Just stumbled across your edits. I have another hardwire kit on the way. Probably going to poke around at a few options over the weekend.

It is weird that it happens exactly every other time I turn my car on. And if I disconnect and reconnect the cable going into my dash cam GPS mount, it powers up as normal.
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