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Ceramic Coating Sprays - Preferences? Testimony? Opinions?

Sleeper 7

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Ive used F11 topcoat-JUNK Top coat v2 and Griots 3 in 1. Both of these work well I apply 2 coats 1 week apart and get a solid 6 months of protection. 6 months is fine for me I apply spring and fall
 

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While I am currently using Torque products, I do still recommend TW Seal and Shine. Or like the above poster said, TW Ice Spray Wax. I have always had good outcomes with it. For the money and for a spray, you simply can't beat it. I bought my Torque when they had a before Christmas sale and got 5 bottles for $75. Otherwise I would still be using TW.
I just applied tw seal and shine to my maverick yesterday. Very slick and looks amazing. Super easy application. Time will tell how long it lasts
 

Lynyrd Skynyrd

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How much does the dealership coating differ from DiY?
Lol. My dealer used a cheap spray on and never corrected the paint. Put the crap right over it.
dealer wanted 1k and after I broke out a light and showed them the scratches under the poorly applied spray on. They dropped the cost and never said another word of it.
Took me few hours to remove it and fix their mess. Not sure if matters was an autonation dealer. They suck but had the truck on the lot
 

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Same time and money.
Don't buy spray bottle. Highly effective for short term. Highly diluted. Will wash off in 2 weeks.
Get H9 and or better H10 graphene based. Just make sure to apply after you clay bar the hell out it. It's seals paint as well.
I completely disagree with this. Spray base silica sealants are fine and easy to apply. Most can be applied while wet and used as a drying agent.

You should also never apply a coating after "claying the hell out of your paint". Claying causes micro marring and should be corrected before doing any sort of coating. I will preface and safe that light colors (white and sivler) aren't as noticeable for the micro marring.
 

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I've used several a bunch but have stayed with Technicians Choice 582. Buy it in the 5 gallon jug and then put into spray bottle. I use these mostly on wash and seal details. Somebody that has a budget they want to stay in or on the salvage vehicles we rebuild. Another is CarPro Hydr02. I have supplied many customers with a bottle of this stuff ad they love it. Spray on when wet, 20 seconds hit with water from a pressure washer and water sheets.

Another choice which is a little different would be BeadMaker. Love the mango smell and the huge pop of gloss you get from this but it doesn't last long and can attract dust if parked in a garage.
 

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JP4AZ

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Preferences? Testimony? Opinions?
I've used Mothers and Nexgen.
Best Bang for the Buck! (In my opinion) just repeat twice a year and your are good to go.
I did It about 4 months ago on my 2002 Lexus and still beads water today. I will put another coat on in March.
I forgot to mention that the Lexus sits outside (Exposed) 24/7

Ford Maverick Ceramic Coating Sprays - Preferences? Testimony? Opinions? 20230130_173001
 
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^^^^ He ain't wrong.
 

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Curious as to what correction would need to be done on a car that had just been delivered? What would the needed correction process be?

I completely disagree with this. Spray base silica sealants are fine and easy to apply. Most can be applied while wet and used as a drying agent.

You should also never apply a coating after "claying the hell out of your paint". Claying causes micro marring and should be corrected before doing any sort of coating. I will preface and safe that light colors (white and sivler) aren't as noticeable for the micro marring.
 

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Curious as to what correction would need to be done on a car that had just been delivered? What would the needed correction process be?
There are a bunch of things. For one Rail dust, swirls etc. new vehicles still get a quick one step correction to be sure they are ready for a coating. Then you need to panel wipe the vehicle to be sure they are no fillers, oil residue left. You want the coating up bond well to the paint.
 

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I've been well satisfied with Adam's advanced graphene spray.

Very easy to apply. Last did it in September and it's still beading nicely and looks great after a wash.

As with everything, surface prep and technique are important if you want it to turn out it's best.

Make sure the vehicle is very clean and remove any existing wax or coatings. Do one panel at a time using new clean microfiber pads and buff with microfiber towels.

This stuff is a cut above the usual cheap-ass ceramic waxes but not as much work as a full blown ceramic.
 

Lynyrd Skynyrd

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Curious as to what correction would need to be done on a car that had just been delivered? What would the needed correction process be?
There are a bunch of things. For one Rail dust, swirls etc. new vehicles still get a quick one step correction to be sure they are ready for a coating. Then you need to panel wipe the vehicle to be sure they are no fillers, oil residue left. You want the coating up bond well to the paint.
^What Bry@n said, my dealer coated right over rail dust (largest chunks I ever saw!) and delivery people use towels I would not shower with!
Couple years ago I learned of CRI lighting and invested. As a detailing hobbyist best cash ever spent. Ever wax or seal your ride and pull out into the sun and see even little swirl or spot? These lights cover every spectrum of lighting under the sun and are adjustable for any color paint. My point? I also have a portable CRI light I bring with to the dealer to see all these marks. unless you get an un prepped factory wrapped rig, its gonna have dealer swirls
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