Anyone having rust issues with their Maverick?

[bill67]

Let me give you a hint on what is the important area to do first. I had the whole frame of my Toyota Tacoma replaced at no cost to me due to perforated frame. The box frame rusted from the inside out because the subcontractor (DANA) didn't wash all the stamping oil off the frame before zinc coating. Zinc doesn't stick to oil, so the frame never received the proper coating of zinc. It cost DANA over $11K each to have Toyota replace the frames and sent DANA into bankruptcy.

I took my flashlight and shined into the frame holes where forum pictures show rust to see if I could see rust and it was clean, but the coating didn't look uniform. That is the area that will rust out unless completely coated with some rust proofing material along with the door bottoms at the crease. I have not heard of any vehicles with the floorboards rusting out since the seventies. Also, the rocker panels are easy to coat via the drain holes at the bottom of the rockers.

If done right the body will outlast the engine and battery packs.

Does anyone know if ziebart is any good. They have been around along time.

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[YOBY]

Does anyone know if ziebart is any good. They have been around along time.

Had two done in the 70's but sold within 5 years so have no idea if they ever rusted. They do drill holes to pump the undercoating in the rocker panels, but again that was in the 70's when everything sold was a rust bucket.

 

[AC13]

Use a small brush to treat any rusty areas. It converts rust to a hard black surface and helps inhibit further spread.

 

[Nw_adventure]

I used 8 cans of cosmoline on my mav then took it to a shop to be dripless sprayed. Cosmiline is tough stuff.

No doubt - Cars used to be covered in that stuff during transport to dealers back in the 80s/90s-

 

[Mikknj]

Good morning. I'd like to look into your rust concerns on my end. Could you please send over a private message with your VIN and the name/location of your local Ford dealer to get started?

Does anyone know if ziebart is any good. They have been around along time.

You will get complete confusion and opposite opinions for answers to is Ziebart any good: . Some people swear by Ziebart and others will tell you it will destroy your truck. I have used them for 10 years on 3 vehicles - the coating is great until it eventually cracks here and there. You must go back to the shop every 2 years and get any cracked or chipped areas - scraped off and reapplied. The cavity wax in the doors and sills is good stuff - similar to the 3M cavity wax. Seems to hold up great. I had a Ranger with Ziebart - at 10 years there was one spot on the frame that lost it's Ziebart coating and it started to rust. - thus it's not a one time spray and done but it's GREAT for about 6-8 years then you MUST repair areas. You also Must NEVER EVER put that stuff over rust - you have to have a clean new body panel or frame to start with or it will seal in the rust. And within a few years the truck will rust worse than without the undercoating. You will have a rubberized coating over all your wiring and hydraulic lines, that will make your mechanic angry, but has not been an issue for me - ever yet. So there you have it. It works for 6-8 years. It's good enough for me because I trade my cars every 5-8 years. I'm not going to crawl under this low Maverick to do it myself with Wholwax each year - just can't so Ziebart is a reasonable option. But you have to know what you are getting into.

 

[AnthonyMav]

I have the same amount of rust as the OP — maybe a little less. I sanded it off, which took 30 seconds, wiped it down and dried the areas, and sprayed two coats of Rustoleum black. That’ll be fine for a while. I’ll check it in 5000 miles and hit it again with some paint.

I wouldn’t stress it

 

[bill67]

You will get complete confusion and opposite opinions for answers to is Ziebart any good: . Some people swear by Ziebart and others will tell you it will destroy your truck. I have used them for 10 years on 3 vehicles - the coating is great until it eventually cracks here and there. You must go back to the shop every 2 years and get any cracked or chipped areas - scraped off and reapplied. The cavity wax in the doors and sills is good stuff - similar to the 3M cavity wax. Seems to hold up great. I had a Ranger with Ziebart - at 10 years there was one spot on the frame that lost it's Ziebart coating and it started to rust. - thus it's not a one time spray and done but it's GREAT for about 6-8 years then you MUST repair areas. You also Must NEVER EVER put that stuff over rust - you have to have a clean new body panel or frame to start with or it will seal in the rust. And within a few years the truck will rust worse than without the undercoating. You will have a rubberized coating over all your wiring and hydraulic lines, that will make your mechanic angry, but has not been an issue for me - ever yet. So there you have it. It works for 6-8 years. It's good enough for me because I trade my cars every 5-8 years. I'm not going to crawl under this low Maverick to do it myself with Wholwax each year - just can't so Ziebart is a reasonable option. But you have to know what you are getting into.

Thanks I keep cars till wheels fall off but IAM 73 and the wheels will fall off of me first.Ziebart it is.

 

[Camlt12010]

I have the same amount of rust as the OP — maybe a little less. I sanded it off, which took 30 seconds, wiped it down and dried the areas, and sprayed two coats of Rustoleum black. That’ll be fine for a while. I’ll check it in 5000 miles and hit it again with some paint.

I wouldn’t stress

 

[Camlt12010]

A body man told me years ago, you have to grind rust off sanding is not enough because you are embedding rust particles into the metal. Also the 1st coat of paint is the corrosion protection which is electro statically charged so that the primer, paint and clear adheres properly. Something went wrong in this process.

 

[Camlt12010]

not to sound like I don't believe you but can you take some pics of the area you see it at from a distance. We already have the close up but I wanna see where they are at when I go lo

Not to sound like I don't believe you but can you take some pics of the area you see it at from a distance. We already have the close up but I wanna see where they are at when I go look on mine so I can compare mine. As far as we know that these pics are from some other car or truck.

Really can't take a far away photo to show . At the sideview mirror area look under the rocker panel in about 6 - 8 inches.

 

[Lugnut]

I would chance to guess that they are using a lower grade [lower cost] steel to build the maverick. Ford has used recycled metals that are more prone to rust, for a lot of their fastener [Screws, bolts, nuts ect.] in the past. Just ask any mechanic!

 

[Dudley]

Did you know, Area 51 color was created by aliens.

Yep. The Martians from "Mars Attacks" left us a copy of the formula because it is really a living alien organism that looks like paint and as the Brain would tell Pinky will turn every vehicle painted that color into what will "take over the world!!!!!" Yea, that's it!!! Wanna join my EAA51V (Eliminate All Area 51 Vehicles) Group???? We pretend to be The Possum Lodge that meets at the end of every "The Red/Green Show" episode.

 

[Chris_G]

Yep. The Martians from "Mars Attacks" left us a copy of the formula because it is really a living alien organism that looks like paint and as the Brain would tell Pinky will turn every vehicle painted that color into what will "take over the world!!!!!" Yea, that's it!!! Wanna join my EAA51V (Eliminate All Area 51 Vehicles) Group???? We pretend to be The Possum Lodge that meets at the end of every "The Red/Green Show" episode.

I knew it!
Thanks for the confirmation

 

[Dudley]

You must go back to the shop every 2 years and get any cracked or chipped areas - scraped off and reapplied ... you have to know what you are getting into.

I use Ziebart, and they, here in the Indianapolis area, have me come back yearly.

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