Any recommended ball hitches?

[billbillw]

This will be fine 95% of the time.

As Liberty Mutual says:
"Only pay for what you need."

FWIW - for cheap "anti-rattle" I just wrap 2 or 3 or 4 layers of electrical tape around the square shank.

That looks just like mine, complete with rust and electrical tape! Cost me nothing. I found it by the side of my road a few years back and stored it away in my toolbox. I had a nice factory German made one for my VW Touareg, so I didn't need it at the time. Sold the VW, started using the 'found' one.

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[jonshep]

If you have the 4K tow package, you need a class 3 hitch. You will need to match the drop to your trailer. The trailer you pull most of the time. If you pull a smaller trailer, I find it more economical to just switch the ball rather than owning several hitches. My XLT came with a factory hitch that accepts a 2" receiver. It is not a 4K package so it's a bit of overkill. I made a utility pin hitch on a 2" tubing to move an antique JD horse drawn sickle mower. That's all I have pulled with the Mav. I can borrow a 2" receiver from my other pickup and move my lawn mower on a small utility trailer if need to. The Mav is just to small to do much pulling.

Go over to Etrailer.com, they have excellent info on hitch class and tounge weight.

 

[The Real Maverick]

All the Mavericks with factory installed hitches are Class III.

 

[dhaskit]

Question:
Does anyone else agree that this thread is now tired and worn out?
Seems like all of us have provided valuable opinions and now it’s time to put it to rest.
…just sayin’.

 

[Glen Baker LLC]

Question:
Does anyone else agree that this thread is now tired and worn out?
Seems like all of us have provided valuable opinions and now it’s time to put it to rest.
…just sayin’.

Nope keep it going.
Don't open it. If you don't want to read it

 

[Jeff D.]

I personally like the hitches with the ball welded on rather than the shank with a nut on the bottom. This is because I've rarely been successful removing a ball after its threads rust/seize up and I had a recent hitch that the ball came very slightly loose, but the threads were rusted/seized so bad I could not for the life of me get it to tighten.

Not often I've needed a different size ball and the welded type are often cheaper.

That's my experience, at least.

 

[RDRahn]

I recently got my new 2025 Maverick with a 4k tow package and am looking for a good ball hitch. It is my first truck and subsequently will be my first look into ball hitches. I won't tow often and plan to keep the hitch under the back seat when not in use.

I have been looking around and am unsure if I should get an adjustable one, a static one, one with multiple ball sizes or just go standard 2". Any recommendations or things to look out for would be greatly appreciated!

Hey Aremite!

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Congrats again on getting your Mav and thanks for considering.

 

[710-oil-614]

This will be fine 95% of the time.

As Liberty Mutual says:
"Only pay for what you need."

FWIW - for cheap "anti-rattle" I just wrap 2 or 3 or 4 layers of electrical tape around the square shank.

LiMu LiMu and……Doug!

 

[The Real Maverick]

LiMu LiMu and……Doug!

Er... LiMu Emu.

 

[PeteBerner]

Just bought this on Amazon for the new Maverick -

Nilight Trailer Hitch Ball Mount with 2-Inch Trailer Ball & 5/8" Hitch Pin Clip Fits 2-Inch Receiver 7500 lbs 2" Drop

only $20 for ball & hitch, looks like a very good deal if you're in the market (this deal might be with Prime only)

 

[Blinky]

Until you have something to tow, I wouldn't bother getting it. I waited until a few days before getting a trailer to buy this stuff, because I didn't know what I would need. Unless you plan on owning a bunch of trailers with different ball size requirements, or mount heights, don't waste money on anything fancy. A $20 ball and $30-$40 mount will do just fine for 90% of what you can do with a Maverick (2k or 4k).

The anti-rattle devices are nice to have, depends on what you put in the receiver though. I've used it with and without, and honestly don't notice much noise difference. Saves some paint damage on the receiver though. Buy some primer and matte black paint too, because those anti-rattle devices, and ball mounts, will scratch the paint on the receiver over time. If you leave it, it will rust out.

This is the best advice I've seen in this thread.

OP, you are getting LOTS of good information but without having a trailer to tow then it's all just noise. A 2" drop is probably fine but maybe the trailer you end up towing will need something else and your shiny new 2" drop hitch is gonna be a spider nest. Hitches and balls are so ridiculously common and available and I can't imagine you'd find yourself in a surprise towing situation where you simply MUST tow immediately.

 

[chilicharger]

I bought a Weighsafe hitch because the towing capacity on this thing is low and I really wanted to abide by the tongue weight limit. I haul my track cars at just under the 4k limit. The adjustability and knowledge of how to perfectly load the trailer is very valuable.

 

[OB1e]

@walmart

 

[PeteBerner]

@walmart

and I thought I got a good deal on my ball and hitch for $20 on Amazon...

 

[Timothyd]

I recently got my new 2025 Maverick with a 4k tow package and am looking for a good ball hitch. It is my first truck and subsequently will be my first look into ball hitches. I won't tow often and plan to keep the hitch under the back seat when not in use.

I have been looking around and am unsure if I should get an adjustable one, a static one, one with multiple ball sizes or just go standard 2". Any recommendations or things to look out for would be greatly appreciated!

Get the trailer to tow first then get the simplist drawbar/ball to match. If you get another trailer, get another setup. Keep the spares at home and carry tools with you unless you're hauling different trailers all the time. You'll learn. And, take the drawbar off when you don't need it-- it's a real shin buster!

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