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Yes, disconnect and remove the 6x9 sub. Cover the hole in the floor. Put the amp there. Use the lead from the sub into the high input of the amp, or into a Line Output Converter or LOC then into the amp. Amps or LOCs with DSP work best as there is a cutoff at 35hz. DSP restores the signal down to 20hz and will give you lower bass.I just purchased a sub box from Etsy for my mav. I'm thinking about getting an audio control subwoofer 10-in along with a audio control amp just for the sub. My question is how did you hook up the sub? Did you disconnect the 6x9 and use those wires to hook it up or what did you use?
I’ve been hooked on L7’s since 2002 and don’t expect anything other than them to be in my builds. There are some shallows that I would like to try but the square cutout does make it difficult to. In a couple years when the last kiddo at home moves out I’ll be doing the 90’s style camper shell and rubber boot with three square 12’s. Old people can play too LoL.That is the same box I have but I have the round opening not the square opening
Are you planning to amplify mids/hi also? KEYLOC is legit, but I’m planning to run LC7I pro from AudioControl. I have pretty huge respect for them when it comes to LOC, and the pro is a rather sexy device.I'm starting to get up there in age and am doing a Keyloc to amp to 12 inch sub in a box behind the driver's seat. I've had cheaper all in one solutions but thought I'll try something more "proper" at least once.
Nope, for now anyway, I'll just amp the lows. Things could snowball of course.Are you planning to amplify mids/hi also? KEYLOC is legit, but I’m planning to run LC7I pro from AudioControl. I have pretty huge respect for them when it comes to LOC, and the pro is a rather sexy device.