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I believe folks are putting them behind the seat. I think on the passenger side where the B&O amp and sub would go. I went a different route in my truck.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20651HS10/Kicker-51HS10.html I know a bunch of folks have really been happy with this as a bass upgrade. Crutchfield knocked $40 off of it. I don’t know how long that’ll last.

My average day is driving starts with cold truck 2 1/2 miles stop for an hour 2 1/2 miles back home and I’m happy to see higher than 18. It does increase significantly if I have to run errands and it stays warm. obviously it’s eco-boost and not hybrid.

Good luck! That’s not the one I’m searching for. I’m looking for the cab high one.

Truck is azure. For the right price I’d take azure, white, or black.

Not sure but send me the details in a message if not. I’m looking

Definitely cool. There’s no way I could do that in mine. I have all sorts of stuff already on the back wall. I’m also not willing to remove the jack. That’s the one no-go I have. When functional gear is sacrificed the system just isn’t worth it.

This is a great rack spot. Without the B&O amp in the way you can clip the two prongs of the factory rack and mount a piece of MDF or HDPE right to the factory rack and I’m jealous of that LOL.

I believe you’d need to run the wire for the tweets. I upgraded a B&O so all my wiring was behind the rear seat back. I have worked with the dash in modern ford and there is pretty good space for passing wires. The rears are barely audible with a good amplified component set. Add an underseat...

If you run your wires to a key 200.4 right in the dash you can send the door signal out from ACM with a split to run into a key 500 in the rear. Skip the crossover for the tweets and run biamp letting the key do its thing. The key does signal turn on but I’m with Carlitos on running a dedicated...

Was the driver injured? I also cannot stand a drunk driver but there is a human in there too. This may be what it takes for them to start recovery! good to read you have the coverage to protect you through this. If you decide to get another Mav, I hope it doesn’t take to long.

It’s definitely only a problem for MY25. The audio in has changed from 24.

The blue plug does not fit the corresponding AmpPro plug. The AmpPro is micro-usb and the MY25 appears to be optical.

Are you planning to amplify mids/hi also? KEYLOC is legit, but I’m planning to run LC7I pro from AudioControl. I have pretty huge respect for them when it comes to LOC, and the pro is a rather sexy device.

I used gorilla double sided (outdoor) tape and a piece of thin plastic. Easy enough and had it all on hand.

I’ve been hooked on L7’s since 2002 and don’t expect anything other than them to be in my builds. There are some shallows that I would like to try but the square cutout does make it difficult to. In a couple years when the last kiddo at home moves out I’ll be doing the 90’s style camper shell...

I did the shallow 10” L7. The ground shaker box is .65 cf and acoustic-stuf makes a huge difference in the depth of the bass. The Kicker key amps are perfect to clean the sound up without buying a separate DSP. In the MY ‘25 B&O amp the signal in has changed from micro-usb to what looks like...

I’ve always respected Ford A/C and my Maverick (‘25 Lariat) does not differ! It’s 90 in Louisiana today. not five minutes after starting the truck it’s cool enough to be comfortable.

Stock radio to a T-harness then to Kicker Key amps. Kicker KS components in the doors/dash. In the ‘25 there are no B&O replacements yet. The signal input to it was changed from micro-usb to optical.

I gotcha! I missed the hideaway bit the first time.