It does fix it i have that kisload4 from kicker. it does its job. since your just off the fronts you could probably just run the 2 channel version kisload2. Get in forscan tuen the rear channels completely off. I didn't do this i wanted my fader to work at the radio.
$60 for a box of resistors? I will order some 50W resistors and put them in. I don't remember if I disabled the rears, I will check that.
Hey, how did that tow hit module come out? Not sure how it's latched in thereFor how much room there is on the back wall, there is one strategically placed module to just make it annoying.
The larger black module slides on the bracket, then there is a clip to keep it from sliding off. Reach behind the bracket, depress the tab, then it will slide off.
The old Forscan spreadsheet had the AS Built values, not sure why those were removed. I thought I downloaded a copy but I cannot find it. I will grab some screenshots from Forscan.
Thanks. I had alaready made some corrections thru my dsp and did not notice much of a change. Tomorrow going to try starting with the flat signal and see what it sounds like
Good afternoon! I am about to start my journey of installing a sub and amp and was wondering if you had any issues running your high level inputs and remote turn on lead together? I know for the power wire, they say not to run the audio signal with it, being that I have a hybrid, that is not an issue but didn't know if I also needed to keep the remote turn on lead(fuse #3) separate.Finished the last of the wiring runs to the front, the signal wires to the input of the PS8 Pro DSP.
Measured the length and put on the RCA ends on the DSP side.
Prepped and ready for install.
Ran through the factory guides to the kick panel.
Under the fuse box where the remote splits off.
Over to and up the center console.
Up to the factory wiring for the ACM.
Reinstall the ACM.
The rear panels still need to be installed, but roughly run to the DSP.
I can't answer your main question, but I wanted to suggest using fuse #6, as it will most closely mimic the operation of the OEM head unit - meaning it has 12V+ until you open the door, even if you turn the engine off. I used fuse #6 for my amp remote and it works great.
Thank you so much for the suggestion! I didn't know there was a difference, will definitely use #6! What is the proper way for tapping remote lead into a fuse?
No noise issues what so ever at any volume or speed. I am using guitar wire for RCAs which have a fairly large insulator between the shielding and the center conductor.
I have this issue where the remote cuts out when I turn off the ignition. I will investigate and update this. Thank you for the tip.
