2025 Maverick Build Log

[cdoxp800]

OMG, you have been busy. So after do a lot of research door an mounting depth, it this the Morel Virtus 603 will be a better option. You still planing to use then as well?

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[squirlz]

I was in a bit of a rush when finishing the sound treatment I didn't run the wiring. I should have left the door panel off but at the time I thought I was going to take today off of working on the truck. But with it being apart, I want to keep progress going so I decided to work on wiring.

Getting the boot out was more of a pain than I anticipated. But once it was out running the wire was easy. I mock ran the wire to get final lengths. Then applied braided sleeving and heat shrink. The wires run together from the amp to the kick panel.

Ran the wire inside the factory channel.

Split at the kick panel.

In the door.

At the A pillar.

 

[squirlz]

OMG, you have been busy. So after do a lot of research door an mounting depth, it this the Morel Virtus 603 will be a better option. You still planing to use then as well?

I ended up ordering the Morel Hybrid 2 way, then still plan on using the Virtus 2.5" VWB25.4.

Both the Hybrid MW6MKII and the Virtus MW6 have a mounting depth of 61mm, but the Hybrid is larger in diameter towards the rear. There is really plenty of room in the door cavity once you remove some of the bracing. In my post above, you can kind of see where I cut. Not sure if I will have to cut the sheet metal, but I am not worried either way.

 

[cdoxp800]

Seem like you have really gotten into it. I can see where you removed some of the window guide.

 

[wax87]

The door panels are the ones that need a lot of attention. They are made from multiple different pieces so lots of joints to treat.

Resonix CLD squares applied and Duct Seal on all of the joints and the clips were treated with Tessa tape.

The inner door handle is held in with a plastic bracket. I applied Duct Seal around the a good part of the perimeter and applied Tessa tape to the bracket.

A layer of Thinsulate.

Tessa tape on all of the clips for the window switch.

A few pieces of CLD to add weight, Tessa tape on the clips, and Thinsulate added to the sail panel.

Door panel back on. It is much better, no rattles or buzzes, but only time will tell once the Hybrids are installed.

This project took way longer than anticipated, but well worth the effort. The door closes with a satisfying thud now.

Great Write up, however you know that these doors leak a lot between the window and the outboard seal. Are you worried about trapping moisture in the door?

 

[squirlz]

The doors will still drain, nothing I added will absorb water.

 

[MM Mav]

Wow @squirlz that's a lot of detailed work. Nice job.

 

[squirlz]

The Passenger side gets the same treatment.

Outer door skin CLD and Duct Seal.

Inner door metal CLD Lite and fiberglass inserts.

CLD and Duct Seal

Thinsulate

 

[squirlz]

The roof was the last big are that needed treatment. It might have been my least favorite too. Partly because I had to work around the headliner. I did not want to take out the front seats, and there was no way it was coming out with them in. Also working above your head is never fun.

They tried to deaden the roof with whatever this crap is. It does not work well and it was a pain to remove.

I found it best to heat it up with a heat gun then scrape it off. I used a plastic scraper and was very careful to not damage the roof skin. Then I used a red scotch pad to remove any loose debris.

I applied full coverage of Resonix CLD squares to the flat parts, and CLD Lite on the edges as to not interfere with the clips as much.

Two layers of thinsulate to finish it off.

The headliner was tricky to get back on, a little pressure was needed to compress the thinsulate when installing the grab handles. The rest went on without issue. The upper B pillars and the door seal helped secure it as well.

 

[squirlz]

Finished the last of the wiring runs to the front, the signal wires to the input of the PS8 Pro DSP.

Measured the length and put on the RCA ends on the DSP side.

Prepped and ready for install.

Ran through the factory guides to the kick panel.

Under the fuse box where the remote splits off.

Over to and up the center console.

Up to the factory wiring for the ACM.

Reinstall the ACM.

The rear panels still need to be installed, but roughly run to the DSP.

 

[squirlz]

Interior panel treatment and assembly.

Lower B pillar before.

Applied Stinger Silencer.

Thinsulate to finish.

Stuffed the area with folded over thinsulate then applied Resonix CLD Lite.

Kick panel / sill cover.

Lower C pillar before.

Stinger Silencer.

Thinsulate.

 

[squirlz]

Upper C pillar before.

Stinger Silencer.

Thinsulate.

Rear panel before.

Stinger Silencer and some new CCF.

Panels back in.

The sub enclosure does come out with the panels in.

The Stinger Silencer is not nearly as nice as the Resonix CLD Lite. The foil is not as thick and the butyl is not as resilient or sticky. The Stinger is half the price and did the job on the plastic panels, but it would not be as affective as the Resonix CLD Lite on the metal panels. I would not invest all of this time with a cheaper product, it is something I want to do once. The CLD Squares are way better and do an amazing job.

 

[Carlitos_92]

The Stinger Silencer is not nearly as nice as the Resonix CLD Lite. The foil is not as thick and the butyl is not as resilient or sticky. The Stinger is half the price and did the job on the plastic panels, but it would not be as affective as the Resonix CLD Lite on the metal panels. I would not invest all of this time with a cheaper product, it is something I want to do once. The CLD Squares are way better and do an amazing job.

I think you are insane, but also inspirational.
I have learned a lot from this thread already. You are making the Maybach of Mavericks.

My question is, have you worked with the Canopus product and what did you think? I am doing about 25% of what you are (at best), but went with Canopus 50mil along with the Tesa fleece tape and 3M Dynatron seam sealer.

I don't have it in me to do all the Thinsulate work, but if I can stop some of the plastic interior panels from resonating, I'll be ecstatic. It's a shame when a volume setting of 12 on the weak stock stereo makes the whole back seat buzz....

 

[squirlz]

I have not heard of Canopus. From what research I have done, you don't want the foil to have shapes in it or folded over, the foil works best if it is flat. I don't think there is data that shows how much of a difference it makes. I also see lines that the rollers leave and no one seems to care about those, so maybe take that with a grain of salt. I used a piece of 2x2 sanded and rounded the corners to smooth the CLD when applying. I feel it was easier to use than the roller and did not leave as many lines in the foil.

The thicker the foil the better. The ticker the butyl the better. The stickier the butyl the better. I am by no means an expert, just did a lot of research before starting the build. Some CLD is better than no CLD.

To cut down on rattles, put large pieces of CLD on large flat metal areas, you don't need 100% coverage. Use the seam sealer / butyl / duct seal on joints of metal to metal or plastic to plastic. I feel this has a lot of bang for the buck. Use foam tape or Tesa fabric tape between surfaces and around clips. You could spend $100 to do this and it would make a world of difference.

Resonix is a great place to start for information. There are other forums that also go over this data and of course YouTube. DIYMobileAudio is a great source as well.

 

[squirlz]

The last major part of sound treatment was the rear doors. These were not nearly as nice to work on as the front doors. But since there is no speaker in the door it is just for rattle prevention and a more solid feeling door.

Before inner skin.

CLD Lite applied.

Vapor barrier back on.

Treated door panel with CLD Squares, duct seal, CCF foam, and Tessa fabric tape.

Thinsulate.

I have 1 Resonix CLD Square left and plenty of Resonix CLD Lite, maybe a half pack of the Stinger Silencer and about 10' of Thinsulate. I do want to treat the wheel liners with CLD and thinsulate. There might be a few random places to stuff thinsulate and around the mids in the dash.

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