2025 Maverick Build Log

[Aaron F]

Midbass in the doors, not great, who would have known. I might be a bit overly critical, for the most part they are great, but on certain songs with lots of info in the lower midbass range, they get a little unhappy, and vibrate the door panel. I thought I could live with the compromise, but I cannot. I have been researching options, and landed on adding a front sub. This does a few things for me. 1: it removes energy from the doors, 2: it should allow me to keep the volume up on those heavy midbass songs, and 3: I am hoping to gain or keep the same level of punch, but lower the bass slightly. Not sure exacly where it is going to go yet, I am hoping it will replace the glove box without taking up any leg room.

Enter the Stereo Integrity BM-11, I picked this up used. In my research, this modeled the best, and has a great reputation, I feel this will do exactly what I want. Currently the Morel Hybird MW6's are bridged off of the Morel MPS4.400 giving them the potential 200W. I will be switching them to a single channel output, and run the BM-11 bridged instead. One thing that works out is the BM-11 has dual 2 Ohm coils, allowing me to bridge it at full power. The Dayton LS10-44 has dual 4 Ohm coils. It modeled OK, but the BM-11 still edges out. The other option I found was the SB Acoustics SW26DBAC76. It also modeled well, and was in a similar price point as the used BM-11. I think either would have been fine, but I decided to go with the BM-11 due to the great reviews it has had.

Will be curious to see what you come up with for a front sub enclosure! I wish I was handy with fiberglass.

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[squirlz]

I was chatting with someone on an audio forum and he suggested I try raising the xover point between the midbass and sub. I know I tried this during my tuning process, but was not happy with the sound stage, the sub seemed to pull back the image. But this was before I learned new tricks to better time align the midbass and sub. I will give this a go first and see what happens.

 

[squirlz]

The new mids came in, Morel VWB25.4s. I will be starting installation and tuning in the coming weeks.

Also picked up some LEDs for all exterior lights. I don't like the switchback lights, I wanted from amber lights for the parking / blinker lights. Did some research and landed on VLEDs. Similar price point as Diode Dynamics. They are brighter than stock, but not blinding bright.

 

[squirlz]

Took some time to work on the truck.

Added some CLD to the hood and installed a Maxzina hood shield. Not sure it will block much sound, but the CLD helps with the resonance of the hood.

I was not a fan of the hardware that came with the hood shield, so I designed and printed some inserts and some washers. Then picked up some stainless screws.

Included hardware

New hardware

Added some CLD on the outer skin

Then some larger pieces over those and on the inner skin

Then install the rest of the inserts and the shield

I also added load resistors to the front speaker outputs.

Built a harness using some left over parts from the PAC T harness

Soldered in the other half into the T harness

Used some velcro to attach the resistors to the top of the ACM

Buttoned up

I also switched the remote turn on to fuse 6 instead of ignition switched so the amplifiers stay on after the ignition is off and before the doors are opened. Not a major thing, but it was annoying.

I have been noticing some issues with the sub with a resonance or peak in the upper bass frequencies. I want to say it started after one of the last software updates. I took some RTA measurements of the input signal and it was nearly flat, with a slight roll off starting around 30Hz. I looked back at previous measurements and it was significantly different. I am unsure on how this is different from my original measurements, but I am not going to complain.

I need to re-tune after I install the new mids so I didn't spend a lot of time making adjustments. I did clear out the EQ settings for the subs and took measurements. Everything looked good so I just ran with it. It does sound much more natural. This is a big relief and I look forward to re-tuning.

 

[squirlz]

The next project that I have had on my list since purchasing the truck was the suspension upgrades.

Good-Win rear sway bar & bushings, Whiteline front sway bar end links, and a Jack Pad adapter from Good-Win Racing.

Rear camber arms and Front camber bolts from Eibach.

Front strut brace, rear toe links, and rear sway bar end links from Massive.

I have a set of Fortune Auto Coilovers on order. Still undecided if I cut the top of the strut tower to allow camber adjustment using the top mounts. I have the camber bolts in case I decide not to cut.

 

[squirlz]

Installed the Strut bar, and needed a solution for the cable and tubes that run near it.

Designed and printed some wire clamps.

2 for the high volt cable that runs around the passenger side strut tower.

And one for the tubes near the center.

I routed the cable towards the front of the strut tower, one clamp off of the strut tower and one on the strut bar to keep the wire away from rubbing.

The center clamp is to prevent the tubes from rubbing.

I am happy with the bar itself, it seems well made and no fitment issues. I know it does not add much as there is a brace on the rear of the strut tower, but any little bit helps and it is some good eye candy.

 

[squirlz]

Started on mounting the new mids. I decide to just make an adapter to mount onto the existing baffles I made for the SBs.

Added wire leads to the mids.

The adapter mounts using the same screws as the SB, then the VWB25.4 mounts into that.

There is a slight angle inward.

Mounted into the dash.

Overall I am happy with how they turned out. I did make a few adjustments to the part, there were a few flaws in the prints, but it will be good enough to get a tune in it.

 

[Chance]

This is some insane work, fantastic job man. I too have been struggling with midbass issues and my build since I first started on my 23 XLT lux hybrid 3 years ago. I first had a Morel Maximo Ultra component set fed by a Kicker Key 200.4, JL 10W1v3 in a Sound Decisions box fed by Kicker Key 500.1 mono amp, DSP set to flat.

It was an improvement from stock for sure, I can hardly even remember how the stock system sounded at this point. But impact was definitely lacking as I mostly listen to metal, EDM, and hip hop. Mid bass was near non-existent. Doors are sound deadened, though not quite to the degree that you have yours. The fact that you've done all that you have and are still struggling with mid bass issues makes me believe my dreams of punchy, impactful kick drums may never come to actually happen in this truck.

I just recently installed an Audison C8.14bit DSP amplifier and Hertz Mille Pro 3 way component set in prefab custom pods on the A pillar, along with a Stereo Integrity SQL-15 on top of the rear bench seat in a 2.1 cu ft box firing backwards. I figured if I was going to have to put something on the seat, I may as well go big. This was being fed by a Hertz CP1.2K for 1200 watts at 2 ohms. It was sitting on this over the seat shelf by 63 industries, ratchet strapped down to it: https://63ind.com/collections/over-the-seat-collection/products/karga-40-single-level-midsize

The SQL 15 was a monster for sure, but ultimately I began missing having the rear space in an already cramped vehicle (who would've thought?).

So I went back to a Hertz MP 250 10 inch driver on the Hertz amp in the Sound Decisions box under the seat, and it is definitely super clean, if not quite enough output for me. This is where I began toying with the idea of a front sub, and I installed an Audison APBX 10 AS2 in the passenger footwell to try to get some of that punch up front and reduce resonance in the doors (I still have some on the driver's side even after sound deadening.) I am definitely an amateur at tuning, and I didn't really enjoy any of the tunes that the automated Audison Accordo tuning provided. I'm throwing in the towel and taking my truck to a pretty renowned tuner in Knoxville, Tennessee 4 hours away to try to get the best tune I can get out of my current setup and I'll get his input on whether or not the front sub is worth it. If that still doesn't cut it I'm just going to have to wait several years until I can get a larger vehicle where I'm not fighting an uphill battle with the sound system. Hoping that Honda comes out with a hybrid Ridgeline in a couple years.

 

[squirlz]

The major issue with the midbass is the phase. Around the crossover points the phase is a mess, this makes alignment difficult. I think the front sub would help with this. I want to play around more with xover points for the midbss, upper and lower. My time alignment is still off, so if I can dial that in better I might be able to try rasing the lower to 120 and the upper to 400. I am really on the fence about the front sub. It will add more complexity and I don't really want to sacrifice any passenger comfort.

I need to get back in a tune, but I have been so busy, I just don't have the time right now to play around. I have a lot to learn about tuning, but I enjoy the process.

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