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Dmat

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Was it difficult with a lowered vehicle or did you use a jack.
I have some harbor freight ramps that I put the truck on when only working on one end.
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BeardedMarine

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Update with some experience and recommendations:

I had previously mentioned using different hardware. I definitely recommend this. The hardware I got from Home Depot and was relatively inexpensive for being "specialty" hardware flange bolts ($10). Regular hardware would have been much less and even that I recommend over the hardware that comes with it, but the think the serrated flange bolts are the best approach and eliminate the need for extra washers and lock washers. Here are the correct sizes:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...-Steel-Flange-Bolt-2-per-Bag-802528/204281407
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...-Flange-Bolt-2-Piece-per-Bag-840198/205011282

PXL_20241119_042913083b.jpg


When I went to change the hardware, I discovered pine needles and water on top of the plates -- after just driving through one rain storm. These definitely need some added foam to really do their job. This is because the bottom of the truck isn't flat, where the plates are. I had added a small strip up front but they need a little more around the diagonal cuts at the front in order to really seal the front. Notice how the diagonal areas have much more foam that the straight front edge -- the gaps there are larger. Without anything there you will have big gaps and basically trap moisture and dirt and other junk inside there. Hard to explain but if you want to wait until you install it you will see what I mean. I still like the design, but this is a big flaw. I probably could have still used another piece on the inside corner of the front, but it is much better than it was. Here is how I added the foam:

PXL_20241120_012753091b.jpg


You can see where the foam seals when installed. Without the foam you will have big open gaps. This really needs to be added in order to work the way it is intended. Here is how it now looks installed (also notice new hardware):

PXL_20241120_020031008b.jpg

PXL_20241120_020049204b.jpg


And finally another shot with the rest of the new hardware:

PXL_20241120_020106148b.jpg


There is really only a single factory bolt removed other than the big bumper bolts. I didn't think that bolt was really all that important for torque, but the bumper bolts I did add a little more loctite and torque to 85 foot pounds.

In summary -- really nicely made piece, but I find the hardware lacking and most importantly it doesn't quite seal the way it should in order to really work effectively. But a little foam takes care of that. Overall, glad I got it and installed it.
So I can have the better hardware in hand before I start. Do you remember how many bolts of each size was needed. Thanks.
 

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MABETT

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looked on amazon and said out of stock
Yes, it’s currently out of stock. The next batch will take at least a month to arrive. We’ve made some improvements based on feedback.
 

C'ville

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Yes, it’s currently out of stock. The next batch will take at least a month to arrive. We’ve made some improvements based on feedback.
Any chance to get replacement sets of some hardware? The spring clip nuts ended up breaking the spring clip parts off the nuts for me. Since they aren't off-the-shelf parts I can't just buy then anywhere. Also, it would be good to enlarge the mounting holes on the most rearward plate. I couldn't get the mounting holes to line up with the screw holes in the two small mounting brackets.
 

A.Bursell

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Any chance to get replacement sets of some hardware? The spring clip nuts ended up breaking the spring clip parts off the nuts for me. Since they aren't off-the-shelf parts I can't just buy then anywhere. Also, it would be good to enlarge the mounting holes on the most rearward plate. I couldn't get the mounting holes to line up with the screw holes in the two small mounting brackets.
They are typically called cage nuts. Not impossible to find, but not a local hardware store item either. I also had an ear break off one but managed to still use it. If looking for replacements, I think you will want to search for M12 cage nuts and you should get some hits.

Few examples:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3355549817...sMnYMotTacdHEiF4IIcXdybOnRHpMrwxoCAiwQAvD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Server-Cabinet-Carbon-Yellow/dp/B07L5NTXQC

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...KZxV8yZv_WhoCUKsQAvD_BwE&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
 

C'ville

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They are typically called cage nuts. Not impossible to find, but not a local hardware store item either. I also had an ear break off one but managed to still use it. If looking for replacements, I think you will want to search for M12 cage nuts and you should get some hits.

Few examples:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/335554981794?chn=ps&var=545050274549&_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:1AHhwta2nTwuFEGHlChfSDw30&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=545050274549_335554981794&targetid=2320093655185&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9059820&poi=&campaignid=21222258394&mkgroupid=164713660992&rlsatarget=pla-2320093655185&abcId=9408285&merchantid=6296724&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA6aW6BhBqEiwA6KzDcyCQGMRd0-y8TiwXJHRgH5sMnYMotTacdHEiF4IIcXdybOnRHpMrwxoCAiwQAvD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Server-Cabinet-Carbon-Yellow/dp/B07L5NTXQC

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805527299566.html?src=google&pdp_npi=4@dis!USD!0.85!0.67!!!!!@!12000034093835651!ppc!!!&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gclsrc=aw.ds&albagn=888888&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=m&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=en3256805527299566&ds_e_product_merchant_id=5333125176&ds_e_product_country=US&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=19623912707&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA6aW6BhBqEiwA6KzDc83Pxv1uRDrZ8K1enODmguGHOpdwNT-CYSn3i9pkEg4KZxV8yZv_WhoCUKsQAvD_BwE&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Thanks for the info, I wasn't familiar with cage nuts.
 

Hot Runr Guy

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They are typically called cage nuts. Not impossible to find, but not a local hardware store item either. I also had an ear break off one but managed to still use it. If looking for replacements, I think you will want to search for M12 cage nuts and you should get some hits.
Just an FYI, I measured the holes in the body at about .640" square, or just over 16mm. If longer bolts are needed anyway, it might be easier to find 1/2-13 cage nuts to fit.

HRG
 
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C'ville

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Another stupid question. So when using cage nuts it appears that you shouldn't tighten the bolt as much as possible since it will "sproing" the cage and possibly break it. So I should just snug them but not mash them?
 

Dmat

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Another stupid question. So when using cage nuts it appears that you shouldn't tighten the bolt as much as possible since it will "sproing" the cage and possibly break it. So I should just snug them but not mash them?
with no torque spec, just go hand tight.

In all honesty. if these cage nuts fail. im pealing back the fender liner so I have full access and just do a normal nut and bolt. Mabett made the instruction to install with minimal effort but we do have other options.
 
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MABETT

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Any chance to get replacement sets of some hardware? The spring clip nuts ended up breaking the spring clip parts off the nuts for me. Since they aren't off-the-shelf parts I can't just buy then anywhere. Also, it would be good to enlarge the mounting holes on the most rearward plate. I couldn't get the mounting holes to line up with the screw holes in the two small mounting brackets.
I sent you a PM.
 

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So, I completed installation of the Mabett underbody shield and here are some observations and notes which may be useful to others:

1) This is a solid metal shield that provides complete coverage and should outlast the vehicle. Interesting it’s a two piece solution, it could have been a lower cost single piece stamping, but not a problem.

2) The hole alignment is fine, I think the problems experienced by others are more likely due to crooked mounting of the two small brackets. Make sure they are in the right plane before tightening.

3) Mabett instructs the removal of a wiring harness clip and leaves it hanging. It’s better to detach/reposition the clip and use a spare hole just above the original hole to fully secure the harness. Also there is a large connector (not all models?) that hangs down near the outside sheet metal, so that needs to be adjusted to avoid interference with the rear plate when installed.

4) Agree with other’s comments that a weatherstrip is needed at the front to prevent the plate acting as a water scoop.

5) Removing the painted factory bolt for the rear bracket breaks the paint seal, so be sure to paint over the bolt on both sides to avoid future rust. It’s hidden, so any suitable metal paint will do.

6) The front bolts are too short when used with the split ring lock washer. A quick solution is to use locktite without the lock washer, but the better solution is a longer bolt with a serrated flange, as suggested by others.

It never ceases to amaze that so many Chinese consumer products come with such crappy hardware. Chinese built cars use proper automotive hardware, so it’s widely available in China and therefore suitable dogged/flanged bolts could have be provided with this kit.

In summary, I’m happy with the result and see it as essential for any Maverick operating in a mucky environment.
 
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MABETT

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So, I completed installation of the Mabett underbody shield and here are some observations and notes which may be useful to others:

1) This is a solid metal shield that provides complete coverage and should outlast the vehicle. Interesting it’s a two piece solution, it could have been a lower cost single piece stamping, but not a problem.

2) The hole alignment is fine, I think the problems experienced by others are more likely due to crooked mounting of the two small brackets. Make sure they are in the right plane before tightening.

3) Mabett instructs the removal of a wiring harness clip and leaves it hanging. It’s better to detach/reposition the clip and use a spare hole just above the original hole to fully secure the harness. Also there is a large connector (not all models?) that hangs down near the outside sheet metal, so that needs to be adjusted to avoid interference with the rear plate when installed.

4) Agree with other’s comments that a weatherstrip is needed at the front to prevent the plate acting as a water scoop.

5) Removing the painted factory bolt for the rear bracket breaks the paint seal, so be sure to paint over the bolt on both sides to avoid future rust. It’s hidden, so any suitable metal paint will do.

6) The front bolts are too short when used with the split ring lock washer. A quick solution is to use locktite without the lock washer, but the better solution is a longer bolt with a serrated flange, as suggested by others.

It never ceases to amaze that so many Chinese consumer products come with such crappy hardware. Chinese built cars use proper automotive hardware, so it’s widely available in China and therefore suitable dogged/flanged bolts could have be provided with this kit.

In summary, I’m happy with the result and see it as essential for any Maverick operating in a mucky environment.
Thanks for your detailed feedback.
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