Hybrid 12V Battery Charging

[TheSEARCH]

Source?

I saw it on the TV news for the Maverick and bronco sport. They didn't give a number for the recall . Seems to be a NEW recall.

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[mcluvin]

I 100% agree. I have been monitoring my charging system with ScanGauge and my Mav charges just fine. But I still had battery issues. Changing my battery to Interstate AGM battery and changing the charge level to 95% fixed my issue. The the recent charging battery recall will NOT fix most of the battery issues seen on this forum.

What is the logic behind changing charge level to 95%? I'm just wondering if I should do it? I sold my OEM battery and installed an H5 AGM which has all kinds of extra capacity vs OEM. Ideally don't you want to charge to 80% for battery longevity? I know that's what Apple tells me with their batteries, but I also know it's a different type of battery.

 

[Packer Bill]

Ford, in order to gain .1 mpg, only allows your battery to charge to 80% level. The car batteries last longer if you keep them closer to 100% charge level. Apple uses lithium-ion batteries, not lead acid batteries. Your lithium-ion will last longer if only charged to 80%.

 

[inline_five]

What is the logic behind changing charge level to 95%? I'm just wondering if I should do it? I sold my OEM battery and installed an H5 AGM which has all kinds of extra capacity vs OEM. Ideally don't you want to charge to 80% for battery longevity? I know that's what Apple tells me with their batteries, but I also know it's a different type of battery.

Keeping lead acid at 95% and above greatly extends its longevity.

 

[NedF]

So today after going for a tiny joy ride and stopping at the dog park then back home I can finally see the SoC in the green. It looks like it does not try to bring up the SoC until it drops below 50%.

 

[The Real Maverick]

So today after going for a tiny joy ride and stopping at the dog park then back home I can finally see the SoC in the green. It looks like it does not try to bring up the SoC until it drops below 50%.

That's weird.
But a lot of things are weird with these.

My 12v battery is always low. But not too low. And never dead.

Maybe they WANT it to fail at 3 years so you have to buy more ASAP. "Planned Obsolescence".

It's not a crazy thought.
And it's a stronger explanation for what we see than many others.

 

[cyberdog]

Supposedly BMS keeps the battery (or is supposed) to keep the 12v SoC between the set limit by default of 80% +/- 20%, so as low as around 60% SoC. It's rare, unless you take a prolonged drive it will take it much beyond the set percentage BTW. (Experience shows the factory EFC battery doesn't recover well from 60% and below, and 60% at key off usually means 50% to start on the next drive).

By tweaking it to 95%, the lowest it *should* allow the battery to drop during a drive is approximately 75% SoC before dedicating more current to the battery.

This comes from a Ford Tech by the way.

 

[Waterick]

Ford, in order to gain .1 mpg, only allows your battery to charge to 80% level. The car batteries last longer if you keep them closer to 100% charge level. Apple uses lithium-ion batteries, not lead acid batteries. Your lithium-ion will last longer if only charged to 80%.

I know it's pricy, but has anyone tried replacing the battery with a 12v lithium ion? Seems like this should work well with an 80 percent max SOC.

 

[Headbanger]

I just keep a Battery Tender Jr on my mine all the time. I have it connected to the jumps posts under the hood. Everything that I own that has a battery has it's own Tender.
Mav, RAV4, Yamaha 400 and Slingshot.

Same here. After reading about all the problems with the 12v, I bought one before I got the truck. Both my F150 and Sprinter RV have them as well. Worth every penny

 

[The Real Maverick]

Supposedly BMS keeps the battery (or is supposed) to keep the 12v SoC between the set limit by default of 80% +/- 20%, so as low as around 60% SoC. It's rare, unless you take a prolonged drive it will take it much beyond the set percentage BTW. (Experience shows the factory EFC battery doesn't recover well from 60% and below, and 60% at key off usually means 50% to start on the next drive).

By tweaking it to 95%, the lowest it *should* allow the battery to drop during a drive is approximately 75% SoC before dedicating more current to the battery.

This comes from a Ford Tech by the way.

That's what I observe.
Never got Forscan. Can't change the program. It's dumb.

I'm gonna just get my free battery before 36,000 then make changes.

 

[The Real Maverick]

I know it's pricy, but has anyone tried replacing the battery with a 12v lithium ion? Seems like this should work well with an 80 percent max SOC.

Yes but.... (there's always a but....)

How will the truck know what the SOC of the LiIon is?

Different chemistry, different rules of charging.

 

[Silver23]

Do you have your keyfob blocked in a Faraday cage or pouch, or a tin cakebox overnight? I've been checking on all the clicking that the hybrid does, and am convinced that a number of fairly power-hungry systems are kept operating because the vehicle can communicate with the key and is anticipating that you are close enough that you will be getting in and starting it soon. I started putting it in a tin box to defeat driveway key cloning thefts, but it has a pretty obvious effect on the clicking from the vehicle.

I had this problem with an Infinity sedan. If I left the key in or near the car the battery would die every time.

 

[First Sergeant]

Ford, in order to gain .1 mpg, only allows your battery to charge to 80% level. The car batteries last longer if you keep them closer to 100% charge level. Apple uses lithium-ion batteries, not lead acid batteries. Your lithium-ion will last longer if only charged to 80%.

Have you ( or any others) used FORSCAN and changed the charge from 80% to higher charge? My battery is doing fine, but I do keep it hooked to a tender whenever I am not driving it. I only get out about two-three times a week, sometimes only about 5-10 mile trip. I have a digital meter in the power point (cigarette lighter) up front and when starting up it reads 15.1-15.3. (I assume this is the HV battery) Within seconds, drops to 12.7- 12.9. Should I bump up charge to 90-95% or just let it ride? Have owned truck about 6 months, got 7,000 miles or so on it. Thanks for any input.

 

[The Real Maverick]

Have you ( or any others) used FORSCAN and changed the charge from 80% to higher charge? My battery is doing fine, but I do keep it hooked to a tender whenever I am not driving it. I only get out about two-three times a week, sometimes only about 5-10 mile trip. I have a digital meter in the power point (cigarette lighter) up front and when starting up it reads 15.1-15.3. (I assume this is the HV battery) Within seconds, drops to 12.7- 12.9. Should I bump up charge to 90-95% or just let it ride? Have owned truck about 6 months, got 7,000 miles or so on it. Thanks for any input.

When it thinks the 12v is fully charged (or maybe it is from your plug in) the DC to DC downconverter drops to about 12.9 to "maintain" but not charge.

When the battery is low or trying to charge you'll see 15.1 or 15.3 on the 12v sockets.

I've also seen it throttled in the middle. Like 14.3 or 14.5 v. It's all over the map.

 

[The Real Maverick]

I think 12.x while driving is kinda sorta maybe? A good thing. And 15.x while driving kinda sorta maybe? A not so good thing.

I say this because while working and doing 11 mile commutes, my DC to DC voltage is always 15.x. Yet the battery is poor condition.

The ONLY time I saw my DC to DC voltage drop to 12.9 was after a really long road-trip. It literally took 48 hours of key-on time for the system to "think" the battery was fully changed.

A week later the battery was reading 60% to 70%.

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