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The stock audio system is great, actually. Here's why.

rallyshark

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Moral of this story: If you know what good sound is, the Maverick stereo is complete garbage. If you don't know what good sound is, the Maverick stereo is just fine.

There are countless stereo upgrade posts on this forum for those that have actual standards for sound quality. Long story short, you need speakers/ amp/DSP to get good sound from the Maverick. There's no way around that. It can be done on a relative budget using Kicker Key components for the dsp/amp side and budget speakers of your choice. That will yield results far better than factory. You can also go the more expensive route and spend more with better amps/DSP/ speakers. I fall into the last one, but great sound can be had with the budget option too. Sound deadening also helps a lot in these trucks.

That's just my 2 cents :)
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I hear a lot on these forums and reviews about the Maverick's stock 6-speaker sound system - rarely is any of it positive. So as a guy who is something of a frugal audiophile, I'm going to give some of my thoughts on the Mav's sound system.

A few caveats:
1. I never use Bluetooth. I'm not sure if it's the codec, but audio over Bluetooth has noticeable distortion and digital artifacts. I always run my audio from my iPhone 11 to the stereo using USB-C and through the Apple Music app over Apple CarPlay. I typically use mp3s and occasionally Apple encoded AAC files. YMMV if you're using a different audio source or file formats.
2. I'm a rock/alternative/metal fan, which are genres that are usually very mid-forward in instrumentation. My thoughts probably won't apply to some other, more bass-heavy genres.
3. Almost all of my 25,000 miles in my Mav have been spent listening to music, so the speakers should be broken in. Speakers are made from paper and glue - which are fibrous and adhesive, so play time can "wear in" a speaker by loosening those stiffer materials.
4. I don't have any scientific analysis to give you. Sure, I could get in a number of cars, run pink noise through the system and capture them in stereo using a high quality mic and pre-amp and then use a frequency analyzer to give you an exact reading of what frequency ranges are strongest and weakest at ear level in the driver's seat. And while that would be super cool and fun to do, it's also something I don't have the time for at the moment.

On with the background:

My Mav was just in the dealership for the air bag recall and they, surprisingly, handed me the keys to a brand new loaded 2023 Ford Escape ST with all the goodies to drive in the meantime. Nice car; glad to have my truck back. Anyway, it had the premium B&O sound system in it, so of course I spun some tunes in it.

This isn't the first time I've driven a car with an "upgraded" sound system in it. I've had Bose, Sony, and JBL systems, and the Escape's is definitely one of the better ones I've used. With that said, I think it's a toss-up between the Sony in my 2011 Ford Fusion and - surprisingly - the stock six-speaker system in my 2012 Toyota Camry as to which one is "best."

Crash course in audio: sound is caused by pressure waves in the air moving at different speeds, or frequencies. The head unit is supposed to deliver a pristine audio signal and the amplification power necessary for the speaker to move back and forth and create those pressure waves. Most systems are able to deliver audio frequencies between 20 hertz and 20,000 hertz (or 20khz), both values of which are usually well beyond the audible spectrum for almost everyone. The lower the frequency (the fewer hertz), the lower the note. The higher the frequency (the more hertz), the higher the note. Of course, music is rarely one single, pure note; but a combination of notes from multiple instruments and voices with many "harmonics" and "overtones" creating the sound ("overtones" are the reason why one note played on a violin will sound different from the same note played on a piano, for instance). Generally, a well-mixed song won't overemphasize any one frequency range over another unless a specific situation calls for it.

Audio systems, on the other hand, don't often play by those rules - "critical listening" devices like studio monitors or flat-response speakers give an accurate representation of the music played through them, but tend to sound "flat," "lifeless," or "boring" to most listeners. Thus, most "premium" audio systems - particularly in cars - will overemphasize the lowest and highest frequencies, leading to a "mid-scooped" or "V-shape" sound (so named because the mids are "scooped" out of the frequency range, making a "v-shape" on a frequency analyzer). This is not necessarily a bad thing - "sub-bass" frequencies are ones that are often more felt than they are heard, and a crisp high treble can really bring out the subtleties in cymbals, horns, or high notes in a guitar solo, for instance. A "mid-scooped" sound usually has the effect of making a recording sound "bigger" at the expense of the loss of midrange clarity. A "mid-boosted" sound, on the other hand, will typically highlight mid-forward instruments such as acoustic and electric guitars and most vocals at the expense of sounding "smaller," or "boxier." But let's face it - that V-shape sound profile is just plain fun. It's a quick way to feel like you're at a concert. Everything sounds big, distant, and you really can feel the bass.

The stock Maverick system doesn't do that - at least not well. I had to add just a touch of treble and bass to the mix from the audio settings to make audio sound a bit more open. Note: it also helps to fade the music back towards the back just a touch - since the speakers are mounted so high, they project more directly towards the driver's ears. Yes, your listening position relative to a speaker has a dramatic effect on what you hear - ask anyone who's ever tried to mic up a guitar speaker and they'll tell you that a 5-degree angle will fundamentally change the tonality of the recording. Still, the stock Maverick system just doesn't really do a good "V-shape" profile without sounding compressed and fake (and likewise, most premium car audio systems won't do a flatter, more neutral sound without sounding artificial). Nothing can replace having multiple speakers of different sizes and crossovers feeding each of them the specific frequency range that they're able to best replicate. But what the stock Mav system does so well is that mid-forward, "boxy" sound.

Having listened to some particularly gnarly metalcore in the Escape, I was immediately struck by just how much punchier and "heavy" the rhythm guitars sounded in the Mav. I could feel every kick drum beat in the Escape and hear that satisfying treble "click" of the drum pedal connecting with the bass drum, but the guitars and vocals were kind of a blur that felt distant and indistinct. Again - cool sound; it definitely sounds more "live" that way. But the Mav was much better at reproducing the pick attack and "crackle" of the distorted guitars, even if the cymbals were a little soft in the treble range and I couldn't feel the kick drum and bass. Additionally, with the moonroof open, I felt like the "boxy" sound of the Mav's system made it a lot easier to hear over the wind noise than the Escape's. Is the stock Maverick system "better," then? Well, it depends on your taste, but I'd argue that for driving, then yes. It is.

Ultimately, if I wanted a "big" audio experience, I would rather have it in my nice quiet living room with my relatively inexpensive 5.1 Vizio sound system. It's got a very pronounced V-shaped sound to it and sounds absolutely huge - which is particularly good for movies and games, as well. For a vehicle in motion creating wind, road, and engine noise, that mid-forward sound actually lets me better hear the vast majority of the frequency range where my music sits at a lower volume and still enjoy it. With the engine off and parked - yes, the Escape's B&O system is better. But how often do I sit perfectly still inside a vehicle and listen to music?

So with a little tweaking and some care as to what to source to use with the stock system, I think the Maverick actually sounds great, if not fantastic. Certainly better than the stock system in many other cars I've driven. I still think other cars can offer a happier medium between the two extremes (That 2011 Ford Fusion's Sony system, though!). So before you go try to find a way to change that system, give the Mav's stock system a chance, and over time, you might come to enjoy its sound too.
I agree- I think the sound system sounds great when it works. That is my issue with it. I was delighted to plug my S20+ into the USB port. The problem started right away- every 2nd or 3rd day the system would fail to detect the phone. When this happened there was no fix except to unplug the phone and wait till the next day. Shutting the truck down and restarted didn't fix it.

Also- the interface is lame. No fast forward or rewind? The only option is next track or previous track? I already paid an extra $5K to get cruise control, how much more for rewind??????

I have installed the latest firmware update. I will try my phone again. My phone has FF and RW.
 

TxMike64

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The problem is the "good enough" standard most consumers have. That's what leads them to hold up a cookie sheet to record school plays or use an iPhone to capture a wedding despite professional photographers/videographers being objectively better.

For most consumers, the Maverick audio system will simply be good enough. You will get those with golden ears.
I don't think "the problem" is the "good enough" attitude of most consumers.... In the engineering development process, "better" is always the enemy of "good enough", and "better" usually equates to "more expensive". Which is why you can't compare a Maverick to a Mercedes S-class.

While I also question the OPs reference standards (Vizio vs B&W), I do applaud their well thought-out and logical post. I will reserve my high quality listening to the home environment with proper source material (not lossy compressed digital sources), and in my economical commuter/utility vehicle I am more than happy to have a "good enough" listening experience. Dollars spent in my home for quality equipment is IMO better spent than in a noisy vehicle.
 
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I guess at this point I should further clarify that it’s the sound profile of the stock Mav system that’s actually quite good. I do genuinely believe that the sound quality could improve immensely with some quality speakers. Most “premium” car audio systems go for a very mid-scooped sound that can’t be EQ’d out. My wife’s CX-9 with a Bose is like that - and I don’t like it any more than the Mav’s stock system.


While I also question the OPs reference standards (Vizio vs B&W), I do applaud their well thought-out and logical post.
Thank you! To address those comments, I actually purchased a specific Vizio system for my living room based on frequency analysis charts and other tests performed by RTINGS. Indeed, it sounds excellent - just very V-shaped.

If I’m really serious about mixing and listening, I use my Grado headphones.
 

MavTime

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I think the main problem aside from quality of components is that they put satellite speakers on the dash instead of the upper door next to the rearview mirror or high on the door like other cars do. I've never had premium factory audio in any car, but I have had some factory stereos where they had a speaker there and you hear more separation or spatial surround to the music and be pleasantly surprised.

If I am rocking out I'll have it at 20 volume or so, not sure if it distorts more at higher volume or different music yet.
 

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The B&O is abysmal, as in worse than $70 aftermarket speakers from Best Buy.

I can't even imagine what the base radio sounds like.
 

colinl

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1.
I guess at this point I should further clarify that it’s the sound profile of the stock Mav system that’s actually quite good. I do genuinely believe that the sound quality could improve immensely with some quality speakers. Most “premium” car audio systems go for a very mid-scooped sound that can’t be EQ’d out. My wife’s CX-9 with a Bose is like that - and I don’t like it any more than the Mav’s stock system.

2.
Thank you! To address those comments, I actually purchased a specific Vizio system for my living room based on frequency analysis charts and other tests performed by RTINGS. Indeed, it sounds excellent - just very V-shaped.

3.
If I’m really serious about mixing and listening, I use my Grado headphones.
1. Midbass boom is the term I'd use to describe that. Very common in vehicles. My Bronco's B&O does it to a significant extent worse than the stock Maverick B&O - from what I remember of the stock Maverick B&O, at least.

2. At the least, I'm glad you have a 5.1 system rather than a soundbar. A soundbar is better than the stock speakers in any current model LED TV, but they're so far away from good and there is only so much you can do with tiny drivers and a DSP. (I'm convinced that the ghost of the Bose 901 has come back to haunt us.)

3. Grado headphones go from fairly basic to fairly good, but at least now I know what you've heard that's better than Vizio. :) I have a 15 year-old set of Audio Technica headphones and they're not the insanely expensive ones.
 

Maverickman74

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My question is are y'all listening to the sound or or the music or the song? I'm excluding that ASMR stuff. Those people shouldnt be outdoors anyways :ROFLMAO:

If someone is worrying about the sound then they arent listening to the music. But if all they hear is the music, they may not be hearing the song.
 

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I'm a real deal head banging, cutoff jeans, wallet chain rocker. I sing Iron Maiden songs at the top of my lungs and am more than willing to pass out keeping up with Rush, Journey, Dio or the wizard of Ozz himself. I don't give two ripe heeps about bumping bass or any of that. That being said the standard sound system in my XLTremor is plenty good enough for me. A few times I was out cruising I had it cranked up to the max singing every song. It rocks out perfect for me, just tune into whatever station is rocking the most and jam out. Anybody that disagrees with that has obviously never jumped off the speakers at a metal show!
Listen to the intro to "No more tears" in a car with a giant subwoofer. May change your mind on bass in rock. 🤘 Or anesthesia by Cliff B.

I like to feel the bass line in my guts while my head bobs to the lead guitar.
 

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The B&O is abysmal, as in worse than $70 aftermarket speakers from Best Buy.

I can't even imagine what the base radio sounds like.
B & O front soundstage sounds slightly fuller at the higher end with the center speaker. From there they sound similar until the base system falls off steep cliff at 100hz. The 6x9 helps a little bit in that area. Both are still a good bit muddy. Fine for the base system, but disappointing for the up option.
 
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I think with a good quality source it is good enough. I did add new door speakers and sound deadening and you can tell it is better. Richer, fuller, cleaner sound. Mind you we hardly ever listen above a level "10". For $75 for the infinity reference speakers I say no brainer.
 

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I hear a lot on these forums and reviews about the Maverick's stock 6-speaker sound system - rarely is any of it positive. So as a guy who is something of a frugal audiophile, I'm going to give some of my thoughts on the Mav's sound system.

A few caveats:
1. I never use Bluetooth. I'm not sure if it's the codec, but audio over Bluetooth has noticeable distortion and digital artifacts. I always run my audio from my iPhone 11 to the stereo using USB-C and through the Apple Music app over Apple CarPlay. I typically use mp3s and occasionally Apple encoded AAC files. YMMV if you're using a different audio source or file formats.
2. I'm a rock/alternative/metal fan, which are genres that are usually very mid-forward in instrumentation. My thoughts probably won't apply to some other, more bass-heavy genres.
3. Almost all of my 25,000 miles in my Mav have been spent listening to music, so the speakers should be broken in. Speakers are made from paper and glue - which are fibrous and adhesive, so play time can "wear in" a speaker by loosening those stiffer materials.
4. I don't have any scientific analysis to give you. Sure, I could get in a number of cars, run pink noise through the system and capture them in stereo using a high quality mic and pre-amp and then use a frequency analyzer to give you an exact reading of what frequency ranges are strongest and weakest at ear level in the driver's seat. And while that would be super cool and fun to do, it's also something I don't have the time for at the moment.

On with the background:

My Mav was just in the dealership for the air bag recall and they, surprisingly, handed me the keys to a brand new loaded 2023 Ford Escape ST with all the goodies to drive in the meantime. Nice car; glad to have my truck back. Anyway, it had the premium B&O sound system in it, so of course I spun some tunes in it.

This isn't the first time I've driven a car with an "upgraded" sound system in it. I've had Bose, Sony, and JBL systems, and the Escape's is definitely one of the better ones I've used. With that said, I think it's a toss-up between the Sony in my 2011 Ford Fusion and - surprisingly - the stock six-speaker system in my 2012 Toyota Camry as to which one is "best."

Crash course in audio: sound is caused by pressure waves in the air moving at different speeds, or frequencies. The head unit is supposed to deliver a pristine audio signal and the amplification power necessary for the speaker to move back and forth and create those pressure waves. Most systems are able to deliver audio frequencies between 20 hertz and 20,000 hertz (or 20khz), both values of which are usually well beyond the audible spectrum for almost everyone. The lower the frequency (the fewer hertz), the lower the note. The higher the frequency (the more hertz), the higher the note. Of course, music is rarely one single, pure note; but a combination of notes from multiple instruments and voices with many "harmonics" and "overtones" creating the sound ("overtones" are the reason why one note played on a violin will sound different from the same note played on a piano, for instance). Generally, a well-mixed song won't overemphasize any one frequency range over another unless a specific situation calls for it.

Audio systems, on the other hand, don't often play by those rules - "critical listening" devices like studio monitors or flat-response speakers give an accurate representation of the music played through them, but tend to sound "flat," "lifeless," or "boring" to most listeners. Thus, most "premium" audio systems - particularly in cars - will overemphasize the lowest and highest frequencies, leading to a "mid-scooped" or "V-shape" sound (so named because the mids are "scooped" out of the frequency range, making a "v-shape" on a frequency analyzer). This is not necessarily a bad thing - "sub-bass" frequencies are ones that are often more felt than they are heard, and a crisp high treble can really bring out the subtleties in cymbals, horns, or high notes in a guitar solo, for instance. A "mid-scooped" sound usually has the effect of making a recording sound "bigger" at the expense of the loss of midrange clarity. A "mid-boosted" sound, on the other hand, will typically highlight mid-forward instruments such as acoustic and electric guitars and most vocals at the expense of sounding "smaller," or "boxier." But let's face it - that V-shape sound profile is just plain fun. It's a quick way to feel like you're at a concert. Everything sounds big, distant, and you really can feel the bass.

The stock Maverick system doesn't do that - at least not well. I had to add just a touch of treble and bass to the mix from the audio settings to make audio sound a bit more open. Note: it also helps to fade the music back towards the back just a touch - since the speakers are mounted so high, they project more directly towards the driver's ears. Yes, your listening position relative to a speaker has a dramatic effect on what you hear - ask anyone who's ever tried to mic up a guitar speaker and they'll tell you that a 5-degree angle will fundamentally change the tonality of the recording. Still, the stock Maverick system just doesn't really do a good "V-shape" profile without sounding compressed and fake (and likewise, most premium car audio systems won't do a flatter, more neutral sound without sounding artificial). Nothing can replace having multiple speakers of different sizes and crossovers feeding each of them the specific frequency range that they're able to best replicate. But what the stock Mav system does so well is that mid-forward, "boxy" sound.

Having listened to some particularly gnarly metalcore in the Escape, I was immediately struck by just how much punchier and "heavy" the rhythm guitars sounded in the Mav. I could feel every kick drum beat in the Escape and hear that satisfying treble "click" of the drum pedal connecting with the bass drum, but the guitars and vocals were kind of a blur that felt distant and indistinct. Again - cool sound; it definitely sounds more "live" that way. But the Mav was much better at reproducing the pick attack and "crackle" of the distorted guitars, even if the cymbals were a little soft in the treble range and I couldn't feel the kick drum and bass. Additionally, with the moonroof open, I felt like the "boxy" sound of the Mav's system made it a lot easier to hear over the wind noise than the Escape's. Is the stock Maverick system "better," then? Well, it depends on your taste, but I'd argue that for driving, then yes. It is.

Ultimately, if I wanted a "big" audio experience, I would rather have it in my nice quiet living room with my relatively inexpensive 5.1 Vizio sound system. It's got a very pronounced V-shaped sound to it and sounds absolutely huge - which is particularly good for movies and games, as well. For a vehicle in motion creating wind, road, and engine noise, that mid-forward sound actually lets me better hear the vast majority of the frequency range where my music sits at a lower volume and still enjoy it. With the engine off and parked - yes, the Escape's B&O system is better. But how often do I sit perfectly still inside a vehicle and listen to music?

So with a little tweaking and some care as to what to source to use with the stock system, I think the Maverick actually sounds great, if not fantastic. Certainly better than the stock system in many other cars I've driven. I still think other cars can offer a happier medium between the two extremes (That 2011 Ford Fusion's Sony system, though!). So before you go try to find a way to change that system, give the Mav's stock system a chance, and over time, you might come to enjoy its sound too.
After hearing all the negative remarks about the radio I was expecting a real crappy sound. I got my XLT on 7-31-23. I am more than pleased with the sound and wont be making any improvements. I do wish it had Sirius XM, but I listen to that on Car Play.
 

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I see a lot of complaining on here and also a lot of compliments. However, it does not seem that anyone is upgraded their system and provide details on what seem to work best for them. Lots of opinions, but no actual helpful information. Has anyone done a reasonably priced upgrade to their mavericks system? That they are happy with? If so, could you please post some information on it?
Search button is your friend... You just joined 2 weeks ago.... There are at least a dozen threads on Audio upgrades on this forum.
 

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PowerBass OE65C-FD - 6.5" Ford OEM Replacement Component Speakers - Pair https://a.co/d/fIURhGX

This is the first upgrade people should do to the stock Maverick. It really makes the system so much better. Plug and play.
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