Honda/Toyota buyers seeing the "Light"??

[Gvmumbral]

I've had a:
1996 Honda Accord, auto, 4 cyl. For less than 1 year. loved it.
1999 Ford F150 4.6 4x4. For around 2 years. Loved it.
1988 Honda Civic Hatchback 4 cyl, 5 speed (mod). For around 1 year Loved it.
2003 Toyota Corolla. Auto. 4 cyl. Loved it.
2007 Honda Element Auto AWD. For around 90K miles. Absolutely love it and still have it and i intend on keeping it forever. And this is my previous car to my 2022 Ford Maverick Hybrid XL.

I have had many Japanese cars before my Mav. But this Maverick is absolutely amazing. I love it to the fullest!

But...

If i could afford a Sienna Hybrid, i would have gotten that Sienna Hybrid. But it prolly costs around $45K. And i got my Mav for $26K OTD.

Also, if Toyota has the Prius at 57 MPGs and the Corolla Hybrid at 50 MPGs my Maverick Hybrid is giving me 35 MPGs (real world speed) when i fill the tank; what does FORD have to do to make the Maverick Hybrid get at least 45 MPGs? Don't see that number as too high or crazy number if Toyota can get those MPGs I mentioned.

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[MakinDoForNow]

My wife had a 2013 Honda CR-V for 8 years and replaced the battery 5 times. Honda paid for the first 2, because it was still under warranty. They said for years they couldn't find anything wrong with it and didn't know why it kept dying.

2 years ago, the service dept manager said (paraphrased), "This has been a known problem for years." To make the gas mileage better, the computer wouldn't engage the alternator on short trips. But if all you take are short 10-15 minute trips, the alternator rarely engaged and caused the batteries to have a very short life.

So they made an inferior product and lied to us about it for years! But the truth finally came out. If you have children you know: don't reinforce bad behavior. No more Hondas for us...at least not for a while. I REALLY hate being lied to!!!

I have a 2012 Honda CR-V (AKA BATTERY EATER). After the second battery died after about 20-22 months I put a cheapo voltage monitor in cigarette lighter and figured out that there was a delay or at least it appeared that charging voltage was inconsistent. So this meshes with what you said. Since Honda claimed there was no problem I found a work around. Turn daylight running lights always on and cabin fan always on at least medium (or AC heating/cooling on) would keep voltage on buss at least 14.4v and battery would last much longer. Current upsized sealed flooded battery at 41 months also gets put on maintenance charger for about 5 days around every 8-10 months (=OMG I need to schedule) to be certain it gets topped (yes I know every 4 months would be better). The CR-V is going to college with granddaughter so I may replace battery with new one because she MIGHT have "What's that old guy talking about syndrome"!

 

[Eagle11]

Ok, interior plastic. Mine doesn’t squeak or rattle. I guess I got lucky.

Anything else?

Your lucky, mine squeaks and rattles a lot and I have hearing loss and I can hear it

 

[Midwest Jim]

We've owned Honda and Toyota vehicles for 20 years. They've been very reliable. I sold a Ridgeline, which I loved, save for crappy MPGs and got a Mav. So far I like the Mav but have some reservations about the manual seat. We recently traded a 3 year old CR-V for a Tucson. At this point I'll buy what I like and sell it before it's out of warranty. I don't believe that will cost any more than driving something 10 years old.

 

[MLowe05]

Your lucky, mine squeaks and rattles a lot and I have hearing loss and I can hear it

To be fair, the XL I owned had less squeaks/rattles than this Lariat. Some of it could be that it was warm then and is cold now. The Lariat also has a stiffer ride than the XL.

 

[MLowe05]

Also, if Toyota has the Prius at 57 MPGs and the Corolla Hybrid at 50 MPGs my Maverick Hybrid is giving me 35 MPGs (real world speed) when i fill the tank; what does FORD have to do to make the Maverick Hybrid get at least 45 MPGs? Don't see that number as too high or crazy number if Toyota can get those MPGs I mentioned.

Not really fair to compare the Maverick to either of those, particularly the Prius. There's a large difference in power and aerodynamics.

Now that the new 2023 Prius has 194-196HP (and is expected to also average 57) and the new Prius Prime is at 220, I'm planning to order one. I suspect they might be built of unobtainium, though. Rav4 Primes have huge markups and long waits.

I'll be holding onto the Maverick till then.

 

[Gvmumbral]

Not really fair to compare the Maverick to either of those, particularly the Prius. There's a large difference in power and aerodynamics.

Now that the new 2023 Prius has 194-196HP (and is expected to also average 57) and the new Prius Prime is at 220, I'm planning to order one. I suspect they might be built of unobtainium, though. Rav4 Primes have huge markups and long waits.

I'll be holding onto the Maverick till then.

So only because of the aerodynamics the Maverick hybrid can't get 45 constant MPGs?

 

[Impetus19]

So only because of the aerodynamics the Maverick hybrid can't get 45 constant MPGs?

Is that an honest question?
When you compare the maverick which is a brick, to a prius which basically built in a wind tunnel, yes.

 

[Hoagus]

Take a trip to your local dealer and park your Maverick beside one of these. Open/close doors. Sit in the seats. Check out the panel gaps. Operate the switchgear.

You and I have different ideas of what build quality means. You are obviously OK with anything that is functional. I have higher expectations.

I bought the Maverick. I knew all of this. My issue with this thread is the implication that the Maverick is superior. It is not.

Carry on.

I didn’t even imply that the Maverick is superior. You may be thinking that they are comparable because they’re both unibody vehicles?

Last year about this time, Ford released a video featuring one of the designers for the Maverick. He emphasized that they were designing it as a truck. It was to look and feel and drive like a truck. Not like a compact sedan. Apples and oranges.

Maybe mine was built later than yours, and the quality coming off the line was better. I don’t know, but I’m quite impressed with what Ford has achieved at this price point (mine was MSRP <$22k, including destination fee).

In recent weeks, I’ve had two different people guess it was a $40k truck. I’m sure they lacked your delicate sensibilities, but it does hint at the level of fit and finish.

 

[rclee]

I have a 2012 Honda CR-V (AKA BATTERY EATER). After the second battery died after about 20-22 months I put a cheapo voltage monitor in cigarette lighter and figured out that there was a delay or at least it appeared that charging voltage was inconsistent. So this meshes with what you said. Since Honda claimed there was no problem I found a work around. Turn daylight running lights always on and cabin fan always on at least medium (or AC heating/cooling on) would keep voltage on buss at least 14.4v and battery would last much longer. Current upsized sealed flooded battery at 41 months also gets put on maintenance charger for about 5 days around every 8-10 months (=OMG I need to schedule) to be certain it gets topped (yes I know every 4 months would be better). The CR-V is going to college with granddaughter so I may replace battery with new one because she MIGHT have "What's that old guy talking about syndrome"!

I took my 2012 CRV to Autozone and had the clerk check my battery (I had to ask him to get up off his chair to do it. Not a good sign.) He put the clamps on it and said it needed a charge 12.8v, I asked him to check the output of the alternator, since the battery was low. He had already taken the clamps off and was kind of put off to do it again. He did and basically said my alternator was not putting out 14.4. I asked him if he had a new alternator and he said "how many watts is yours" I said thanks , I will call you if/when I find out what I have. Not a good experience with Autozone. I went home and charged the battery overnight. I also went online and ordered an alternator from NAPA that was going to be there the next day. While I was waiting for it to come in, I googled 2012 CRV alternator. I found out that Honda alternators are not energized unless there is a need for electricity ie, headlamps, AC, heater fan etc. to save fuel by not running the alternator unless needed. They say they save 20% by not running it.

Long story short, I replaced a 150.00 alternator because I was not informed (and the Autozone guy was no help) I did read on the CRV forum that owners bought a larger tray for a larger battery to compensate for this.

Hope this saves some of you for replacing an alternator prematurely.

BTW when I replaced the alternator, my voltmeter was at 12.8, until I turned on the headlamps and AC and fan. Then it was at 14.4.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I took my 2012 CRV to Autozone and had the clerk check my battery (I had to ask him to get up off his chair to do it. Not a good sign.) He put the clamps on it and said it needed a charge 12.8v, I asked him to check the output of the alternator, since the battery was low. He had already taken the clamps off and was kind of put off to do it again. He did and basically said my alternator was not putting out 14.4. I asked him if he had a new alternator and he said "how many watts is yours" I said thanks , I will call you if/when I find out what I have. Not a good experience with Autozone. I went home and charged the battery overnight. I also went online and ordered an alternator from NAPA that was going to be there the next day. While I was waiting for it to come in, I googled 2012 CRV alternator. I found out that Honda alternators are not energized unless there is a need for electricity ie, headlamps, AC, heater fan etc. to save fuel by not running the alternator unless needed. They say they save 20% by not running it.

Long story short, I replaced a 150.00 alternator because I was not informed (and the Autozone guy was no help) I did read on the CRV forum that owners bought a larger tray for a larger battery to compensate for this.

Hope this saves some of you for replacing an alternator prematurely.

BTW when I replaced the alternator, my voltmeter was at 12.8, until I turned on the headlamps and AC and fan. Then it was at 14.4.

Looks like we just needed to replace regulator controller or change parameters for computer. I got email from Honda this last week stating where their batteries are warranted for 100 months. I am sure that the proration covers their hiney. My 2012 battery tray held the larger battery or it's hanging over the ends of tray. I haven't pulled it and checked. Long story but brother in law borrowed my CR-V, ran car without lights and fan on, battery died and he installed new one.

 

[rclee]

Looks like we just needed to replace regulator controller or change parameters for computer. I got email from Honda this last week stating where their batteries are warranted for 100 months. I am sure that the proration covers their hiney. My 2012 battery tray held the larger battery or it's hanging over the ends of tray. I haven't pulled it and checked. Long story but brother in law borrowed my CR-V, ran car without lights and fan on, battery died and he installed new one.

OUCH! But that is the way it was designed. If you load the system, the alternator will energize and you will see 14 + volts. I was pissed when I replaced it and the VOM was only reading 12.8 until I turned on the lights and ac fan.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

OUCH! But that is the way it was designed. If you load the system, the alternator will energize and you will see 14 + volts. I was pissed when I replaced it and the VOM was only reading 12.8 until I turned on the lights and ac fan.

Somehow I figured the lights and fan on and am still running original alternator, etc.
FYI. I am running lights and AC fan on my 22 hybrid maverick and see 14.7 (rarely 14.8) which will after quite awhile will start to drop presumably when the 12v battery approaches 100% charge. If you turn vehicle to not ready and accessories power down then you will see the soc of 12v. It appears that the bms system will charge the 12v battery when it drops to 12.1v. after a drive or the ice runs for even one cycle the 12v will show at least 12.6v. Or after long drive soc of 12v will be 12.8v. I take this to be my 12v is a deep cycle. I have not experienced a deep cycle warning yet. I intend to continue daytime running lights and fan both on.

 

[RR - All the way]

3,700 miles now on my Lariat Lux Hybrid - not sure how you could drive a Maverick and then say Honda or Toyota are off their game when it comes to quality. The Maverick is an interesting, entertaining vehicle but its build quality doesn't justify even the $29.3k price I paid for this one.

I have a friend that works for our local Toyota dealership. I spoke to him yesterday and am ordering a 2023 Prius Prime to replace the Maverick. I don't need a truck and took a chance on the Maverick since it is unique, inexpensive, and super practical. But something is just.. off.

Help me to understand this. You took a chance on the Maverick. You have had an XL, a Lariat Lux, and have another Lariat Lux hybrid on order. So, you took three chances on the Maverick even though you did not really need a truck. You "knew" it was not really "high quality" but found it "interesting". Seems logical to me, so I should really value your judgement?????

 

[Eagle11]

So only because of the aerodynamics the Maverick hybrid can't get 45 constant MPGs?

On the highway, yes. But in town, I'm averaging 50 mpg right now.

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