HYBRID 12V Battery Mystery SOLVED

[MavStangVa]

Well shoot I popped in here to ask @MavsterMechanic a question and I see he has been smited from the boards. I dunno what happened* but I for one prefer to comport myself in the mannerism of the curmudgeonly yet affable geezer.

I'm getting this:

And I plan to use CarScanner and ForScan in my hybrid for the science.

So to keep an eye on this I need to understand if what I think needs monitoring is correct, and if my understanding of the terms are correct:

12v batt SoC (BMS reported state of charge)
12v batt Amp (is it being charged or discharging and by how much)
12v batt Voltage (how much juice has it got in it)
12v batt SoH (state of health - is this even part of the Maverick OBD PIDs?)

12v voltage I do know actually should be looked at after battery has been resting and before unlocking the vehicle, so a bit hard to do with an OBD reader.

For fun I would watch the same for the HVbatt plus keep an eye on it's temperature, the generator coil temperature and some other stuff but mostly I'm after watcing the 12v issue as is in the thread title.

Are those the important parameters to watch so I can see if my '26 is misbehaving?

*edit: I do know what happened. There are rules for the boards, friends. I don't know where they are or I would link them here.

Scroll to the bottom of the page and click on terms of service.

Sponsored

 

[El Kabong]

Scroll to the bottom of the page and click on terms of service.

TY, previous post edited.

 

[KO Stradivarius]

Well shoot I popped in here to ask @MavsterMechanic a question and I see he has been smited from the boards. I dunno what happened* but I for one prefer to comport myself in the mannerism of the curmudgeonly yet affable geezer.

I'm getting this:

And I plan to use CarScanner and ForScan in my hybrid for the science.

So to keep an eye on this I need to understand if what I think needs monitoring is correct, and if my understanding of the terms are correct:

12v batt SoC (BMS reported state of charge)
12v batt Amp (is it being charged or discharging and by how much)
12v batt Voltage (how much juice has it got in it)
12v batt SoH (state of health - is this even part of the Maverick OBD PIDs?)

12v voltage I do know actually should be looked at after battery has been resting and before unlocking the vehicle, so a bit hard to do with an OBD reader.

For fun I would watch the same for the HVbatt plus keep an eye on it's temperature, the generator coil temperature and some other stuff but mostly I'm after watcing the 12v issue as is in the thread title.

Are those the important parameters to watch so I can see if my '26 is misbehaving?

*edit: I do know what happened. There are rules for the boards, friends. I don't know where they are or I would link them here.

Edit: Here we go, thank you @MavStangVa!

MAVERICKTRUCKCLUB.COM TERMS OF SERVICE

He contributed some good stuff but crossed the line with the off color comment. He also called my comments worthless. I’m sure there were others. Who needs that? Mods did the right thing.

 

[HeyBales]

Well shoot I popped in here to ask @MavsterMechanic a question and I see he has been smited from the boards. I dunno what happened* but I for one prefer to comport myself in the mannerism of the curmudgeonly yet affable geezer.

I'm getting this:

And I plan to use CarScanner and ForScan in my hybrid for the science.

So to keep an eye on this I need to understand if what I think needs monitoring is correct, and if my understanding of the terms are correct:

12v batt SoC (BMS reported state of charge)
12v batt Amp (is it being charged or discharging and by how much)
12v batt Voltage (how much juice has it got in it)
12v batt SoH (state of health - is this even part of the Maverick OBD PIDs?)

12v voltage I do know actually should be looked at after battery has been resting and before unlocking the vehicle, so a bit hard to do with an OBD reader.

For fun I would watch the same for the HVbatt plus keep an eye on it's temperature, the generator coil temperature and some other stuff but mostly I'm after watcing the 12v issue as is in the thread title.

Are those the important parameters to watch so I can see if my '26 is misbehaving?

*edit: I do know what happened. There are rules for the boards, friends. I don't know where they are or I would link them here.

Edit: Here we go, thank you @MavStangVa!

MAVERICKTRUCKCLUB.COM TERMS OF SERVICE

Search PIDs for BCM, as that's the module the PID's are under. Below is my screenshot of some of them.

Despite not having 2 batteries, Battery B (or 2 in Forscan) for Current & Voltage give non-whole number figures so are more useful to look at.

There is a SOH PID - in Forscan it contains no data but an error.

Correct on Vehicle Battery SOC being the other one.

The QST or Quiesent Current is also useful to see. It's the avg mA draw during the prior Sleep period, which is reached after your up to 60 min max period after turn off. 25-50 mA expected values. So it's good to see if everything is really as asleep as it should be. I'll see higher than that if doing errands, and the sleep period was brief, so high average and something must have still run. And when longer and higher, I'm guessing it was time for the periodic Relearn that happens.

So my routine usually works for getting cold Voltage reading, but I have a keyed start and true Accessory mode.
Most times I can go to that - start the logging - and see basically resting voltage if no fans/radios/lights on - pretty quick with door close - so close enough.
Now sometimes the adapter doesn't wake up from it's sleep mode, or the truck isn't sending data to the port. In which case I have to briefly bump On mode for 1-2 seconds, and back to Accessory. Then I'll get a reading - ya, perhaps inflated since it got a smack of a discharge & charge. But the super high Amps to the 12VB doesn't start in 2 seconds anyway.

On Push button start the manual calls it Accessory mode with no brake pressed - but because it closes the relay for the HVB to start charging - it's really On mode.
So for you to get similar reading - Start button with no brake, another push to Stop, and that should be Accessory mode from prior posts. (even from simple power point Voltage readings, seems to drop back to 12.x after that Stop, showing in Acc mode - IIRC)

@rslilly76 uses the same Car Scanner Pro, and here's from a prior post that shows some of them. If you can group a few useful ones together - won't have too much data. We both seem to have some overkill!
From this pic - B Current and B Voltage, Battery SoC (not sure why it says A), DCDC values are useful sometimes. And that QST I mentioned.
The BECM's are regarding the HVB - also useful if not just entertaining.

 

[El Kabong]

He contributed some good stuff but crossed the line with the off color comment. He also called my comments worthless. I’m sure there were others. Who needs that? Mods did the right thing.

Let the mods handle it. Maybe it's not permanent. I have no vote in the matter, therefore the subject is dead to me. It's not like I don't speak my mind when I'm among friends or anything. I'm just here to talk about my Maverick, which is Carbonized Gray Metallic (link so everyone understands that they can be seen in various colors).

 

[El Kabong]

Search PIDs for BCM, as that's the module the PID's are under. Below is my screenshot of some of them.

Despite not having 2 batteries, Battery B (or 2 in Forscan) for Current & Voltage give non-whole number figures so are more useful to look at.

There is a SOH PID - in Forscan it contains no data but an error.

Correct on Vehicle Battery SOC being the other one.

The QST or Quiesent Current is also useful to see. It's the avg mA draw during the prior Sleep period, which is reached after your up to 60 min max period after turn off. 25-50 mA expected values. So it's good to see if everything is really as asleep as it should be. I'll see higher than that if doing errands, and the sleep period was brief, so high average and something must have still run. And when longer and higher, I'm guessing it was time for the periodic Relearn that happens.


So my routine usually works for getting cold Voltage reading, but I have a keyed start and true Accessory mode.
Most times I can go to that - start the logging - and see basically resting voltage if no fans/radios/lights on - pretty quick with door close - so close enough.
Now sometimes the adapter doesn't wake up from it's sleep mode, or the truck isn't sending data to the port. In which case I have to briefly bump On mode for 1-2 seconds, and back to Accessory. Then I'll get a reading - ya, perhaps inflated since it got a smack of a discharge & charge. But the super high Amps to the 12VB doesn't start in 2 seconds anyway.

On Push button start the manual calls it Accessory mode with no brake pressed - but because it closes the relay for the HVB to start charging - it's really On mode.
So for you to get similar reading - Start button with no brake, another push to Stop, and that should be Accessory mode from prior posts. (even from simple power point Voltage readings, seems to drop back to 12.x after that Stop, showing in Acc mode - IIRC)

@rslilly76 uses the same Car Scanner Pro, and here's from a prior post that shows some of them. If you can group a few useful ones together - won't have too much data. We both seem to have some overkill!
From this pic - B Current and B Voltage, Battery SoC (not sure why it says A), DCDC values are useful sometimes. And that QST I mentioned.
The BECM's are regarding the HVB - also useful if not just entertaining.

@HeyBales thank you that is all what I was looking for.

 

[Waterick]

I have an 8 month old BXT 470 (490?) FLA in my '24 that was warranty installed and swore to never charge it hoping it will be replaced one more time under warranty with an AGM. Still shows a resting voltage of 12-12.1 . When driving, my voltage shows usually 14.3 on my ScanGuage II whether I have the parking lights on or not. Warranty is up come December. Anyone know if I should start charging this battery with my Noco 5, run with my parking lights on, or just hope it will fail before my 36 month warranty is up? TAIA for any input or opinions.

Help it fail!!!

To at least get new warranty AGM replacement.
That's my plan - you are about 5 months before me.

My warranty battery from last Aug is normal morning resting at 11.8.
And that was after a week vacation with full charge ups during extended driving in Oct.

Ya - these tricks ain't helping us - you gotta get to 85% SOC before they'll matter.
Haven't seen that since last Oct.
With SG2 - you have SOC% and amp readings?
That'll tell the story.

Lot's of Accessory mode usage in cold months leading up to December.
That's my plan - radio on, dancing in the street!
Not my street of course, don't want the neighbors to video me.

Update to above. Did nothing to knowingly accelerate my battery's demise. I just got an AGM courtesy of Ford, here's how it happened: (caution could get lengthy) I had been experiencing lower and lower morning voltages and little or no lights on after driving and getting out. Also, Mavster's tricks showed no difference on my ScanGuage II voltages when I switched any of those on. The volts were at 14.3 no matter what at first, but more recently were around 13.xx. my morning voltages went from 12.1 to 11.3 to 10.8 (after opening door, but courtesy lights did work) I decided to put it on my Noco 5 to see if I could at least get it to respond to Mavster's work around to prevent the impending no start. Took about 36 hours to get a solid green light, did not use the repair mode as I did not intend to unhook the battery. All connections made at underhood posts. Inside all my gauges (lighter volt meter and Scanguage II) showed over 13 volts. Locked up truck and let it sit a couple days. Totally dead when I tried to get in, had to use key insert. After that I charged with my trusty old 1980's vintage Schumacher 6/2 amp charger using mostly the 2 amp option. At first the meter needle pegged, but eventually cycled down and charged. After another 36 hours or so the meter seemed to be as good as it was going to get and and my voltages inside were upper 12's. I had already called the dealer to take it in. I had the tow module recall, a slow leak in a tire and now this. It started normal and all was normal on my trip to the dealer. I noted that Mavsters tricks now worked and thought maybe it just had a parasitic drain episode even though I had not knowingly experienced one yet. Dealer service called the next morning to talk tires as the leak was not repairable, they had already done the recall and replaced the battery. This time with the AGM! The battery failed their test, no mention of further SSM's (it got the last one for the HVAC module last September). RO said they did check the entire system and found no other problems. Maybe I need to follow up on this? So far, so good, although I've only put about 50 miles on it. I did give the battery a top off charge and tried the battery reset procedure and locked it up again. Never got the battery light reset confirmation. Did try multiple times, anything I need to know?

Sponsored