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A Dummy Discovers the Amazing Benefits of a B.M.S. Reset!

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Bob The Builder

Bob The Builder

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You know, they have these big screens they force us to have on these new cars, and they have settings menus....

How about just putting the BMS reset under the maintenance menu? Would that be too much to ask of Ford?
I would go for that. Wish the screen would also put the Maverick in maintenance mode for the rear brakes. My wife's Jeep does that and boy does that make things easy peasy.
 

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I would go for that. Wish the screen would also put the Maverick in maintenance mode for the rear brakes. My wife's Jeep does that and boy does that make things easy peasy.
My GLI can do it too.

Honestly its so backwards how the HVAC gets locked to touchscreens but to do any sort of maintenance you need OBD II readers and esoteric pedal combos. All the maintenance minders and modes should be accessible via the center screen so you can do re learns or resets without any external tools, like how 99% of PCs operate.

While I am on my soapbox, these screens should be able to display error codes too. Printers and PCs can display error codes and suggested fixes and have done so for 15+ years. Why cant my car display an oxygen sensor error instead of triggering the CEL and telling me nothing? The Buick Riviera could do this in 1986! How have we gone backwards?
 
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Bob The Builder

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My GLI can do it too.

Honestly its so backwards how the HVAC gets locked to touchscreens but to do any sort of maintenance you need OBD II readers and esoteric pedal combos. All the maintenance minders and modes should be accessible via the center screen so you can do re learns or resets without any external tools, like how 99% of PCs operate.

While I am on my soapbox, these screens should be able to display error codes too. Printers and PCs can display error codes and suggested fixes and have done so for 15+ years. Why cant my car display an oxygen sensor error instead of triggering the CEL and telling me nothing? The Buick Riviera could do this in 1986! How have we gone backwards?
You bring up valid points, we must remember however that these are the lowest priced trucks sold in N.A. We have to give up something for that i guess. With that said, I wonder if a 100K+ pickup will have these feature you describe or some of these anyway. I like the idea of displaying what the error code is in lieu of just the CEL.

20 years ago Bill Gates love him or hate him chastised the auto industry for not doing enough to computerize automobiles. Well, a lot has changed in 20 years but some would argue not enough given what even low end chips can do these days.

We shall see.
 

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Me. :rolleyes:

I had totally forgotten about the BMS reset. Silly me, been wondering why the charging system on my Maverick never seemed to charge the battery past 12.1 / 12.2VDC regardless on how much I drove. A 120 mile round trip, which I expected to fully charge the battery did virtually nothing. Stuck on the low 12V. So, hook up my Noco Genius 5 (Glad at least my charger is a genius :rolleyes: ) After 5 hours i am getting the same readings. WTF????

Well, that is when it dawned on me about doing a reset. Off to YT to refresh my failing memory. It only took me about 5 tries before I could get the BATT icon to blink. The process is as straight forward as it can possibly be but leave it to me to somehow frig it up 4 times.

Now after a short trip the battery voltage measured at the 12V power outlet with one of those combo USB / voltmeter now reads 12.5 - 12.6. Engine off, all interior and cargo light off. Even my A.S.S. is now working again after over a year.

Moral of the story, don't be a dummy like me and reset your BMS from time to time. It will make your Maverick much happier and put a lot less stress in your life. :D(y):clap:
Try not to be too hard on yourself. We’ve all been down a similar road at some point in life
 

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You bring up valid points, we must remember however that these are the lowest priced trucks sold in N.A. We have to give up something for that i guess. With that said, I wonder if a 100K+ pickup will have these feature you describe or some of these anyway. I like the idea of displaying what the error code is in lieu of just the CEL.

20 years ago Bill Gates love him or hate him chastised the auto industry for not doing enough to computerize automobiles. Well, a lot has changed in 20 years but some would argue not enough given what even low end chips can do these days.

We shall see.
Yeah but that excuse flew out the windows $10k+ ago. A XLT with the lux package is pushing $40k now, and these sync systems are already wired into the Canbus. You can use them to start the car, after all.

It likely wouldnt require any extra hardware to enable what I'm talking about, its just software configuration. If you can set the climate for remote start and connect your phone to remote start via the screen, you can set maintenance modes. It's just a willingness to do it doesnt exist.

I keep bringing it up, but modding my GLI to allow control of these maintenance modes and reading of codes was a relatively simple process using a OBD11 tool. It would be trivial for an automaker to do so.
 

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I just lock the truck when I park it. By morning, the BMS is reset.
True, but may I add a bit to your process? Only once in awhile, of course.

It is preferable to first thoroughly recharge your battery with 4-5 amps and appropruate charger for the battery being charged...some need more charge cycles than others...once you have thoroughly recharged your battery, then do the lock it up procedure.

This way you potentially improve your batteries condition and have it charged it to its max potential before doing a 9-10 hour relearn....it takes 60- 90 minutes for the trucks to completely shut off and begin the relearn. The manual doesn't allow for this in its time assessment.

As our trucks no longer have an volt meter, I also recommend getting one of those voltage readers that plugs into the lighter 12 volt port...cheap and easy to check what the battery voltage is, and what the charge going into it is, when driving. Good info to know.

Again, just a suggestion. If not interested, that is cool too.

Have a good one,

Andy
 

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Just a note on the plug in voltmeter; they are not 100% accurate. I bought 3 of the same model at one time. Number one is accurate within 0.05 volts, number two reads 0.15 volts low, and number three reads 0.3 volts low(12.8v actual shows as 12.5v). All compared to an accurate stand alone volt meter.

So don't just assume that what you see on the plug in is accurate.
 

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Just a note on the plug in voltmeter; they are not 100% accurate. I bought 3 of the same model at one time. Number one is accurate within 0.05 volts, number two reads 0.15 volts low, and number three reads 0.3 volts low(12.8v actual shows as 12.5v). All compared to an accurate stand alone volt meter.

So don't just assume that what you see on the plug in is accurate.
An excellent point.

I would suggest that a comparison could be done when you get one.

Once you know its constant variance from reality, you now can remember that as your individual reference when checking it! Even that last one....

Andy
 

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Just a note on the plug in voltmeter; they are not 100% accurate. I bought 3 of the same model at one time. Number one is accurate within 0.05 volts, number two reads 0.15 volts low, and number three reads 0.3 volts low(12.8v actual shows as 12.5v). All compared to an accurate stand alone volt meter.

So don't just assume that what you see on the plug in is accurate.
And I've seen the amount of inaccuracy increase as Voltage goes up.
Of course I don't care as much between 15.3 and 15.1 - can't effect that anyway.
But 1st thing in morning voltage for noting, that's good to know the amount off. 0.1 high in my case.
 
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ice445

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You really shouldn't reset it randomly, battery age also gets reset to 0 which means the ecu will charge the battery differently than intended. As batteries age, adjusting the charging strategy can help eek out a bit more longevity.
 

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You really shouldn't reset it randomly, battery age also gets reset to 0 which means the ecu will charge the battery differently than intended. As batteries age, adjusting the charging strategy can help eek out a bit more longevity.
Good day, @ice445

I think you are referring to the process where in the manual you carry out a full new battery reset...with the whole flashing lights etc process? (For when the battery is actually replaced)

Yes, if that is what you are saying, I believe you are correct.

As for what we have been doing here is resetting the battery to the point where the battery is being charged as best as possible by first externally charging the battery and then letting the truck put on a couple coats of "think", and resets its own internal charge profile.

It is my thought that this shouldn't negatively impact the trucks process as to battery age...of course I could be wrong. So, I will continue today thinking about it, maybe re-read the process again in the manual to check and see!

Thanks, and have a great day,

Andy
 
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So what happened to cause my battery to not charge above 12.2 Volts after a long drive. The power point VM registered 14.9 - 15.1V whenever i looked at it on the drive, yet when I shut the engine off it would plummet to 12.2 give or take. I would really rather not live with that as i consider that too low for my dash cam when parked away from home. Low voltage cutoff on the cam is around 12.1V. The BMS reset gave me 12.5V back which is more like it.

Battery was replaced under warranty two years ago when the truck was 7 months old and the truck currently has 9.950 on the clock.
 

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So what happened to cause my battery to not charge above 12.2 Volts after a long drive. The power point VM registered 14.9 - 15.1V whenever i looked at it on the drive, yet when I shut the engine off it would plummet to 12.2 give or take. I would really rather not live with that as i consider that too low for my dash cam when parked away from home. Low voltage cutoff on the cam is around 12.1V. The BMS reset gave me 12.5V back which is more like it.

Battery was replaced under warranty two years ago when the truck was 7 months old and the truck currently has 9.950 on the clock.
My thought is that your battery has been degraded over 2 years of low charge.

We don't know if a complete BMS reset was done as per the manual at the timenof installation...the flashingg lites bit as well as the relearn 9-10 hours quiet time.

We also don't know if your new battery was fully recharged before its installation in your truck...

So there is lots we do not know, but we can confirm you are now informed of what you need to do if you get a new battery installed again...which I am thinking is necessary.

Charge the new battery completely:
-install as per manuals instructions
-follow the manuals instructions on how to reset the truck so it knows it has a new battery
-and finally, do the relearn 9-10 hours of truck lock up with no battery loads or anything else plugged in.

Andy
 

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I'm guessing there is a difference between reset and relearn, but I am not sure. Sounds like reset does a reset of battery data and tells the battery the current charge is the preferred charge level, is that correct? And if the relearn is different, how so? I routinely leave my truck locked overnight and/or for days, so the truck is "relearning" the battery state. If I don't throw it on the charger and don't drive it enough, is it "relearning" a slowly degrading battery state (between driving/charging days) which is making the battery go bad faster?
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