Oil life monitor?

[Tbone289]

Most boosted engines have more fuel dilution. It is just the nature of the beast.

I agree with you. Like I said, in some ways it's easier on oil, in some ways it's not. I could argue that frequent cold starts and low operating temperature in some cases is as hard on oil, if not harder, than minor fuel dilution. I'm not going to debate this with you, but I also wouldn't make the blanket statement that the Ecoboost is harder on oil than the hybrid.

Sponsored

 

[24hrsun]

I agree with you. Like I said, in some ways it's easier on oil, in some ways it's not. I could argue that frequent cold starts and low operating temperature in some cases is as hard on oil, if not harder, than minor fuel dilution. I'm not going to debate this with you, but I also wouldn't make the blanket statement that the Ecoboost is harder on oil than the hybrid.

Well we can certainly look deeper into the topic. No one would dispute the oil dilution with boosted engines. It is well known. You can see the tests done with the hybrids that they don't really have the fuel issue, but if you live in a colder climate and short miles your trips you are going to need to pay attention to condensation in a hybrid. And the OLM knows this as well.

 

[Tbone289]

Well we can certainly look deeper into the topic. No one would dispute the oil dilution with boosted engines. It is well known. You can see the tests done with the hybrids that they don't really have the fuel issue, but if you live in a colder climate and short miles your trips you are going to need to pay attention to condensation in a hybrid. And the OLM knows this as well.

Nor would I dispute the fuel dilution, nor have I... (?)

I've seen many an Ecoboost oil analysis that looked very good with very low wear metals and trace amounts of fuel, including my own. I would rather look at the data than make blanket statements.

 

[24hrsun]

Nor would I dispute the fuel dilution, nor have I... (?)

I've seen many an Ecoboost oil analysis that looked very good with very low wear metals and trace amounts of fuel, including my own. I would rather look at the data than make blanket statements.

I am fine with data. Will weed out the opinions. Science, not speculation...

 

[zen_]

The oil life meter is WAY MORE accurate than the human guess-o-meter behind the wheel.

Want some proof?


First one was 75% city / 25% highway.
Second one was 50/50.
I comfortably take the Oil Life down to 1%
One not tested was 80% towing (coast to coast vacation) and oil life hit 1% at 6,000 miles. So I changed it at 6,000 miles.

15,130 miles and Oil life at 1%.
Zero added oil in about a year.

Used reports at 10,000 (more city) and 15,000 (more highway) are nearly identical.

Nice report, pretty tough to argue against an actual analysis.

I plan do an analysis of SuperTech 0w20 /w a Motorcraft 910S filter vs. Penzoil Platinum with a Premium Guard XL filter, both at 7,500 miles and adjust accordingly, for my own peace of mind over the long haul of owning this vehicle. Only thing that raised my eyebrows with the OLM over the first 10K miles was that it made no modifications through the winter where I made tons of short trips with the engine not reaching full operating temp, but I guess the analysis will show whether that really matters or not for contamination and viscosity breakdown.

Have to remind myself sometimes going down the oil rabbit hole that the sludge factory horror stories are almost always defective owners who use the CEL as the problem monitor, then scream about the consequences.

 

[24hrsun]

Nice report, pretty tough to argue against an actual analysis.

I plan do an analysis of SuperTech 0w20 /w a Motorcraft 910S filter vs. Penzoil Platinum with a Premium Guard XL filter, both at 7,500 miles and adjust accordingly, for my own peace of mind over the long haul of owning this vehicle. Only thing that raised my eyebrows with the OLM over the first 10K miles was that it made no modifications through the winter where I made tons of short trips with the engine not reaching full operating temp, but I guess the analysis will show whether that really matters or not for contamination and viscosity breakdown.

Have to remind myself sometimes going down the oil rabbit hole that the sludge factory horror stories are almost always defective owners who use the CEL as the problem monitor, then scream about the consequences.

That is a bit concerning. It should have reflected the operating temps and declinated the indicator quicker. Do you live in a cold climate?

 

[zen_]

That is a bit concerning. It should have reflected the operating temps and declinated the indicator quicker. Do you live in a cold climate?

We have 4 seasons in Nebraska, at least for now, usually only ~6 weeks of winter /w temps regularly below 20F.

 

[24hrsun]

We have 4 seasons in Nebraska, at least for now, usually only ~6 weeks of winter /w temps regularly below 20F.

Ah yes, Nebraska... I am getting chills thinking about it! LOL For a short while I lived up near Omaha. Can't say I am a fan of NE weather! I would have certainly thought the OLM would have been clicking off the percentage for sure.

 

[HeyBales]

I'll post the screen dump and page later - it's there in the pdf - till then debate away

Cheers

Haven't read rest the responses yet - others probably nailing this already.

That's not saying a thing about the OLM telling you to do it prior to 5K, or that you shouldn't go over 5K. For the EB.

General service is 10K miles - rotate tires, other checks/replacements as you go higher, ect.

The OLM may tell you to do the oil prior to 10K general service. That's what it says.

 

[HeyBales]

Hi. EB here, on the last 3 months since my last oil change I put close to 2000 miles my olm shows my oil is a 66% of life remaining, estimated distance 6600.

So the EB is doing the same as the hybrid now - at least the Fordpass app is showing the same thing.

1K distance remaining for every 10% OLM.
So around 8600 total.
I'll bet that estimated remaining distance changes at some point - curious if at 50%.
Was there an app update in May - that's when mine changed to 1k/10%. 1st year of usage, not.

But if it was only mileage based algorithm - then about 2000 miles for 34% of used oil life - means 100% would be 5882 miles to reach 0.

If only time based - you said 3 months or 120 days for 34% used - means 100% would be 353 days to reach 0.

So is your annual mileage more on track for almost 6K miles, or 8600 miles?

Gentle miles, no tow/hauling, extended idling, ect?
No winter yet either, that could change things.

 

[dbbii]

Years ago, my wife had Nissan 300 ZX. Sweet ride. 5 speed. Turbo, sun roof. I let me drive it one day. I'm hauling ass down the interstate one evening when a warning symbol lite up. Pulled over and checked manual (and this was before cell phones). Manual said it was the check engine light. Took it to my independent mechanic. Guy grabs a paper clip and crawls under the dash. All of a sudden the light goes off. Crawls back out. Said when he worked for Nissan/Datsun, they called that the DEP light. Stands for Dealer Extra Profit light. It's tied to the odometer. Goes off every 30k miles.

 

[Mavster Mechanic]

Nice report, pretty tough to argue against an actual analysis.

I plan do an analysis of SuperTech 0w20 /w a Motorcraft 910S filter vs. Penzoil Platinum with a Premium Guard XL filter, both at 7,500 miles and adjust accordingly, for my own peace of mind over the long haul of owning this vehicle. Only thing that raised my eyebrows with the OLM over the first 10K miles was that it made no modifications through the winter where I made tons of short trips with the engine not reaching full operating temp, but I guess the analysis will show whether that really matters or not for contamination and viscosity breakdown.

Have to remind myself sometimes going down the oil rabbit hole that the sludge factory horror stories are almost always defective owners who use the CEL as the problem monitor, then scream about the consequences.

Here's the thing. And it is a thing.
It is a clearly defined thing.

What is "cold"?

Cold is actually defined in the engine operating controls as "under 120°F".

How many "cold" starts" does a hybrid Maverick make? A maximum of ONE per run cycle.


The Engine Control Unit will not allow the engine to shut off if lower than 120°F.

Starts, and restarts at 120°F and above are not considered "cold starts".

In addition, the catalytic converter is allowed only one cold start per cycle.
I forget if the minimum is 750°F or 850°F. But there is a minimum. If you sit at a drive through in a blizzard the engine will restart if either gets too cold. Even on a well charged HV battery.

In other words, the truck is smart.

 

[Meeka]

Here's the thing. And it is a thing.
It is a clearly defined thing.

What is "cold"?

Cold is actually defined in the engine operating controls as "under 120°F".

How many "cold" starts" does a hybrid Maverick make? A maximum of ONE per run cycle.


The Engine Control Unit will not allow the engine to shut off if lower than 120°F.

Starts, and restarts at 120°F and above are not considered "cold starts".

In addition, the catalytic converter is allowed only one cold start per cycle.
I forget if the minimum is 750°F or 850°F. But there is a minimum. If you sit at a drive through in a blizzard the engine will restart if either gets too cold. Even on a well charged HV battery.

In other words, the truck is smart.

My Eco doesn’t do that!

 

[zen_]

Here's the thing. And it is a thing.
It is a clearly defined thing.

What is "cold"?

Cold is actually defined in the engine operating controls as "under 120°F".

How many "cold" starts" does a hybrid Maverick make? A maximum of ONE per run cycle.


The Engine Control Unit will not allow the engine to shut off if lower than 120°F.

Starts, and restarts at 120°F and above are not considered "cold starts".

In addition, the catalytic converter is allowed only one cold start per cycle.
I forget if the minimum is 750°F or 850°F. But there is a minimum. If you sit at a drive through in a blizzard the engine will restart if either gets too cold. Even on a well charged HV battery.

In other words, the truck is smart.

I don't doubt that, but there is a zone between "cold" (120F) and full operating temp. Maybe my understanding that it's sub-optimal for motor oil to be operating below full operating temp from short trips and / or cold ambient temps is outdated though.

Material cost of an oil change for me is $25-30, so if I lose 25% life from that to do some testing, I'm not going to lose any sleep over throwing away chipotle burrito money vs. making sure my ~$8K (?) replacement cost engine is happy.

 

[dochawk]

Why is that? Because the quality of Motorcraft oil is higher than the other brands?

No, it's because it sometimes gets confused, mistakes itself for a motorcraft battery, and watches for the next opportunity to inconveniently fail.

Sponsored