The “L”ow Down (shifting into L - Low when approaching a stop)

[HeyBales]

I'm aware of modern fuel injection shutoff, DFCO or whatever any particular manufacturer calls it.

Further on in this thread I stated that with the accelerator pushed in a bit to cruise at a steady speed, activating or deactivating (L) substantially changes the input/output effect of the accelerator. There is definitely something going on past regeneration and engine braking with (L) on the hybrid.

I'd like to be able to create a custom "mode" that has max regen (preferably with stop lamp activation), but uses the battery aggressively for acceleration like sport mode without also keeping the engine running, as well as improving the steering and pedal responsiveness like sport does.

Hey - be glad you have 25MY, where it sounds like you get up to 13-15% power in EV compared to 10% max, before the ICE kicks in.

I haven't noticed the 24MY changing the pushing the Go pedal part of the action.
Nor the amount of distance back to coasting just barely on the EV side of gauge.
Obviously as soon as you lighten up a hair more into the Regen side of the gauge, it's on max Regen.

I'll need to run a log file of doing that to see how the % pushed changes when L is pushed.
May not apply to 25MY though.

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[shadow76]

This was my thought also. I have a hybrid and I like to use "L" to slow down, this way I know I am using regen and not the brake pads. BUT I ALWAYS make sure there is not a car behind me!

Before I realized the brake lights did not come on, I had noticed cars approach very quick and then slam the brakes! At first I would get mad at them for almost hitting me, but that is when I realized what was happening and that I was causing the problem, AND I had to be careful when I use "L".

Such a driving practice indicates the driver is not aware of your slowing and therefore driving distracted.

When using the ‘L’ feature, I now have the 4way flashers activate for a few moments. Anything to increase the odds in my favor when dealing with a distracted driver.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

All hybrid and electric vehicles (EVs) have battery packs that charge through regenerative braking, which generates heat in the batteries. These batteries are automatically cooled to manage this heat. I’ve owned three Chevy Volts—my 2013 and 2015 models both exceeded 100,000 miles and still achieved their original 40-mile electric range. My 2018 has 80k miles and gets 50+ miles. I frequently drive in "L" mode, which increases battery charging, and this is how the Ford Maverick hybrid is designed as well. While you can drive conservatively to minimize wear, battery aging is inevitable, and no amount of care will make a battery last forever. Even with Ford’s 8-year/100,000-mile hybrid warranty, you’re likely to get well over 200,000 miles from the battery, so it’s best to use the vehicle as intended without overthinking battery preservation.

The computer will adjust the rate of charge/discharge of the HVB to whatever the temp of the battery permits. In the winter the battery will be heated first either none or partially electrically or physically. In summer or under operation to not overheat the battery. Don't worry, just drive. The computer will select the optimum form of braking or combination of all. The wife experienced the emergency automatic braking from a car stopping in front of her hybrid lariat in cruise at 70mph. It stopped within 2 feet of where the other car was before it just got out of way. I was somehow remaining quiet in the passenger seat

 

[Glen Baker LLC]

I use the brakes.
Unless there is the possibility of overheating and brake fade.
I always found replacing brakes cheaper and easier than replacing transmissions and batteries

 

[Mavster Mechanic]

When using the ‘L’ feature, I now have the 4way flashers activate for a few moments. Anything to increase the odds in my favor when dealing with a distracted driver.

Or, just use the brake pedal.
Like you are supposed to.

 

[Mavster Mechanic]

The computer will adjust the rate of charge/discharge of the HVB to whatever the temp of the battery permits. In the winter the battery will be heated first either none or partially electrically or physically. In summer or under operation to not overheat the battery. Don't worry, just drive. The computer will select the optimum form of braking or combination of all. The wife experienced the emergency automatic braking from a car stopping in front of her hybrid lariat in cruise at 70mph. It stopped within 2 feet of where the other car was before it just got out of way. I was somehow remaining quiet in the passenger seat

If you have a choice (and you do) would you rather:

A) drive around with your HV battery at 90°F

B) drive around with your HV battery at 120°F

I choose A.

Some people might not understand the HV hybrid battery has "emergency cooling" that kicks in only rarely. Like above 120°F for example.

It's not actively cooling at 99°F.

I'll agree it will pass the warranty period in either case. But one choice has a better chance at lasting 15 years than the other.

 

[ScottyC]

 

[TheSEARCH]

You guys who said just hit the brakes do know if you have a hybrid that actually doesn't use the friction brakes unless you hit them hard. It uses regen braking to slow car. Hitting the L button or hitting the brakes softly are pretty much the same thing. Look at the dash gauge it will do the same thing .

 

[GQSTRDR]

No kidding, but Low mode does give me another easy 5-8 city mpg, even on short commutes.

Thats all about conditions, whats your miles per tank?

 

[HeyBales]

Hey - be glad you have 25MY, where it sounds like you get up to 13-15% power in EV compared to 10% max, before the ICE kicks in.

I haven't noticed the 24MY changing the pushing the Go pedal part of the action.
Nor the amount of distance back to coasting just barely on the EV side of gauge.
Obviously as soon as you lighten up a hair more into the Regen side of the gauge, it's on max Regen.

I'll need to run a log file of doing that to see how the % pushed changes when L is pushed.
May not apply to 25MY though.

Correction - had to remind myself in Normal mode with Low.

It does immediately remap the Go pedal as if it's a tad higher.
But as soon as you press it down to hit the same amount of say 10% power, there appears to be the same amount of range to back off to coasting level but still on the EV side of the gauge.
It's not like a remap of the Go pedal like Eco or Slippery modes causes, just a notch difference.
I don't have the terrain that mainly benefits using it, watching gauge too much to see how much to back off the pedal to coast, and the millisecond you get a wrong by a bit and drift to regen side, just grabs hard, then too much response to stop that.
Nope - I can feather my foot on the brake pedal just fine to accomplish exactly the same thing - if using Normal mode. Eco is a little harsher too.

 

[commod0re]

(L) seems like it keeps the eCVT in a lower "gear" for the ICE engine for improved engine braking. So I'm a bit skeptical of it actually improving around town efficiency as the engine hangs out in a higher RPM range with it enabled versus not.

On the hybrid it also increases the level of regenerative braking when coasting. I occasionally use it when going down very steep and long hills where coasting in Drive would have the vehicle go well over the speed limit

 

[Cherokee]

I mean you got this from AI so it's garbage.

A I scores a perfect 100 on SAT test not ever seeing the questions before.
A I scores a near perfect score in all fields in all disciplines of knowledge tests without ever being giving any data prior to the test.
A I IQ is climbing rapidly.
Albert Einstein had an IQ of 160,
Elon Musk 155
Current A I in use today has an I Q of about 300 next gen that’s coming online in the Tesla robots is around 500.
4th gen A I should start out about 1500

Just sayin.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Correction - had to remind myself in Normal mode with Low.

It does immediately remap the Go pedal as if it's a tad higher.
But as soon as you press it down to hit the same amount of say 10% power, there appears to be the same amount of range to back off to coasting level but still on the EV side of the gauge.
It's not like a remap of the Go pedal like Eco or Slippery modes causes, just a notch difference.
I don't have the terrain that mainly benefits using it, watching gauge too much to see how much to back off the pedal to coast, and the millisecond you get a wrong by a bit and drift to regen side, just grabs hard, then too much response to stop that.
Nope - I can feather my foot on the brake pedal just fine to accomplish exactly the same thing - if using Normal mode. Eco is a little harsher too.

Driving in normal mode can be the best way once getting used to the proper go pedal/brake/low applications not having to slightly adjust their pedal action to different mode. Eco and slippery are basically improvements for those who "just drive" without wanting to pay attention to pedaling.

 

[Mavster Mechanic]

A I scores a perfect 100 on SAT test not ever seeing the questions before.
A I scores a near perfect score in all fields in all disciplines of knowledge tests without ever being giving any data prior to the test.
A I IQ is climbing rapidly.
Albert Einstein had an IQ of 160,
Elon Musk 155
Current A I in use today has an I Q of about 300 next gen that’s coming online in the Tesla robots is around 500.
4th gen A I should start out about 1500

Just sayin.

AI is great at solving complex math.

AI is bad at telling you what color the sky is.

Just sayin.

 

[AutobahnSHO]

A I scores a perfect 100 on SAT test not ever seeing the questions before.
A I scores a near perfect score in all fields in all disciplines of knowledge tests without ever being giving any data prior to the test.
A I IQ is climbing rapidly.
Albert Einstein had an IQ of 160,
Elon Musk 155
Current A I in use today has an I Q of about 300 next gen that’s coming online in the Tesla robots is around 500.
4th gen A I should start out about 1500

Just sayin.

AI also straight up:
-lies
-gives false info
-deleted all of some company's data when they SPECIFICALLY said "don't delete any data"
-is wrong

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