- Joined
- Apr 4, 2022
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- 7
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- 130
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- Location
- Carlsbad, California
- Vehicle(s)
- Ford Maverick Hybrid, Toyota Highlander Hybrid
- Engine
- 2.5L Hybrid
- Thread starter
- #76
@glohwormI'm going to have to reluctantly disagree here. Due to this charging system and my 80 year old retired driving style, I've managed to sulfate both my OEM and subsequent AGM batteries. Latest episode was when I had recharged my UPlus AGM and was heading on a 20 mile drive to Hines VA hospital. I happened to look down at my voltmeter plugged into the cig receptacle. It read 12.8v and not the normal 15.0v! It dawned on me then that the battery was not accepting a charge from the DC/DC converter. It was reading 12.5v by the time I got home. Right now I have the OEM battery back installed after desulfating it. I ran my charger, with the repair mode, all night long on the AGM battery and it now reads 13.5v this morning. I ordered another AGM battery, this time a WEIZE H5, with more reserve capacity. I know it'll take a bit of modification. So be it.
I'll refer to my original writeup from one year ago on this issue. It is linked in the first post on this thread here.
Your Uplus AGM battery is almost certainly perfectly fine.
What you are witnessing (voltage dropping to 12.8-ish Volt while driving is NORMAL. Nothing is wrong.
Ford's Battery Management System (BMS) will keep the system charging until it feels the battery has reached its 80% State of Charge (SOC) setpoint, and then DC-DC converter output will drop to around 13V. This is done simply to save fuel.
If you read my original writeup it explains why the OEM flooded battery shows 15-15.3V at all times, and why with the AGM battery the BMS will actually do what it is supposed to: switch between around 15V when charging and 13V when not charging.
I concluded it has to do with a lower internal resistance of the AGM battery, while the higher resistance causes the flooded battery never to reach the trigger setpoint for the BMS to shut off.
Your voltmeter in the dash shows 12.8V while mine shows 13.0V, which likely has to do with the cheapness of these things. Your truck does exactly the same thing as mine with that same Uplus AGM installed.
I would stick that Uplus AGM back in, reset the BMS since you've charged it on the workbench, and be on your merry way!
I think you'll find things working fine going forward. Maybe even unplug that voltmeter, like I did after I gained confidence in the new AGM in this truck a long time ago now.
Cheers!
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