Hybrid Brake Fluid Flush Cost?

[Benilla]

Thanks guys, booked an appointment with my dealer for a brake fluid flush, $189 CAD. My Maverick's a 2022 Hybrid so its about that time

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[vandeda2024]

It will only degrade the fluid. T

Depending on the quality of the components, couldn't a potential issues be corrosion of the systems internal components? Like my old home heating oil tank. Home heating oil is hygroscopic, and the tank rotted from the inside out.

 

[dalola]

It will only degrade the fluid.

Not so. Moisture (old brake fluid) within your ABS modulator & calipers can also lead to premature corrosion, leading to stuck/faulty operation of solenoids & pistons.

 

[Snox801]

Not so. Moisture (old brake fluid) within your ABS modulator & calipers can also lead to premature corrosion, leading to stuck/faulty operation of solenoids & pistons.

Ok sure. But that’s so much moisture it would have no pedal left.
As someone who keeps his vehicles I have never had that happen even after 400k miles. Can it sure but your fluid is so far out of spec if you get that much moister they won’t work. Again not all fluids are the same.
Anyone who has tracked or raced cars on road course knows this. Hence why when replacing fluids one should looks at both wet and dry specs.

 

[Snox801]

Depending on the quality of the components, couldn't a potential issues be corrosion of the systems internal components? Like my old home heating oil tank. Home heating oil is hygroscopic, and the tank rotted from the inside out.

Yes but with brake fluid you will lose any semblance of brake performance well before you get enough water in the system to do that type of damage. Difference with you tank was it was not soaked in heating oil the whole time. The dead air open spots cause the issues.

Again I’m not saying that you shouldn’t change your brake fluid. But you will only be losing brake performance for all intended purposes. To think that if you don’t change your fluid after 3 years that it’s gonna rot out you brake system if flat wrong.
We all know people who have never changed it. Yet somehow the brake system is not ruined from the inside out even at super high miles.

 

[Probity]

Amazes me almost every day when I find out how much I DON'T know about general vehicle operation (at least not what I thought I knew). Brake fluid questions reminded me of that, in particular - are Ford's brake fluid reservoirs vented? If any Ford service techs out there, pls. educate me.

I'm betting that Mav (or any car/truck really) owners that also are/have been regular motorcycle riders are very attuned to periodically swapping out brake fluid. I know I was when I rode. If memory serves both the BMW's and Suzuki's I rode recommended brake fluid swap-outs every year. I didn't rigorously follow doing it each year but I don't remember ever going more than 2 years. Bike brakes get worked hard and no way was I going to forego this maintenance.

We all know moisture can get into brake fluid systems, and brake fluid is hygroscopic (a nymphomaniac for water) and that moisture (water) lowers the boiling point. A knock-on effect - during heavy braking/prolonged use, water content within the brake fluid can vaporize, causing air bubbles that compress under pressure, results in a spongy brake pedal feel, reduces force transfer from foot to brake, stopping distances can increase, etc etc. And the whole potential for corrosion. I don't own a Mav (yet) so don't know if DOT3 or DOT4 fluid is called for. My '24 Silverado uses DOT4.

But how in the heck does that moisture get into the brake fluid system? I know what some interweb sources say:

There are a few common causes of moisture accumulating in brake fluid, the most prevalent being condensation from the environment. As brake fluid cycles through the braking system, it is exposed to fluctuating temperatures, which can cause water molecules from the atmosphere to condense within its components. Additionally, improper maintenance procedures (such as leaving brake fluid reservoirs open) can also lead to moisture buildup over time. Finally, manufacturing defects, system leaks, or incorrectly installed components may also be at fault for introducing moisture into your car’s hydraulic braking system.

And from a UK motorcycle site :
Brakes that use DOT brake fluid are more prone to water or moisture ingress. DOT brake fluid is hygroscopic by nature which means it absorbs water from the environment via seams and microscopic pores in your hydraulic lines. This water content has an adverse effect on the performance of DOT brake fluid by reducing its boiling point.

What I've always assumed (but still not 100% positive about) is that most all modern car/truck brake fluid reservoirs (the thing with the cap upstream of the master cylinder) are vented (even though you typically can't 'see' where it's vented).

When you interweb-search "are car brake fluid reservoirs vented" you'll get a variety of so-called answers (and a lot of opinions) from yes they are to hell no they're not.

At present I'm choosing to believe that they are vented as that makes sense to me, and for what it's worth, AutoNation (big dealer group) Mobile Service is in general saying the same thing:

 

[Cherokee]

lol and around me they are the very last place anyone should take a car after purchasing.
Still not sure why someone at 3 years would need the brake fluid changed?

We used to do it annually on all our Motorcycles dirt or street.
I bought a five year old Honda CB750F twin cam with 21,000 miles. The brakes worked ok but felt a little bit numb.
There was no real way to describe the jelly like crap that came out on the first brake bleed.
It was so bad I dismantled both brake systems, the single disk in the rear and both sides of the twin disk front brakes.
I had to buy new brake lines and the pistons were rusty inside, All new parts,
When I was done I had my oh so critical perfectly responsive brakes back.
The next month my buddy bought a Two year old Yama dog GS1100 with 6,000 miles. He had jelled brake fluid all through his brakes. Not as bad as mine but he could feel the difference once we flushed the shit out.
My 750F Sport was faster than his 1100.
Prolly because I was a lean mean fighting machine and he had a body by Budweiser.
I teased him about that until he bought a Suzuki 425 and spanked my 750 with it.
Boring Stories of Glory Dayz

 

[Snox801]

We used to do it annually on all our Motorcycles dirt or street.
I bought a five year old Honda CB750F twin cam with 21,000 miles. The brakes worked ok but felt a little bit numb.
There was no real way to describe the jelly like crap that came out on the first brake bleed.
It was so bad I dismantled both brake systems, the single disk in the rear and both sides of the twin disk front brakes.
I had to buy new brake lines and the pistons were rusty inside, All new parts,
When I was done I had my oh so critical perfectly responsive brakes back.
The next month my buddy bought a Two year old Yama dog GS1100 with 6,000 miles. He had jelled brake fluid all through his brakes. Not as bad as mine but he could feel the difference once we flushed the shit out.
My 750F Sport was faster than his 1100.

I would believe that. I actually worked as a mechanic for bikes, atv’s and sled for pros in my youth. The stuff I’d see was nuts. But the fluids they use are also nowhere near the quality you should run or what comes in these truck. Kinda like shocks. The oil was so bad from factory.

I’m not saying don’t change it. I change my fluids early and often. Well depends on who you ask on here! Lol
I always tell people if it make you feel better it’s always better to do it.

 

[Snox801]

For the record I change my fluid twice a year in my track cars. But it’s not because it’s ruining the internals.

 

[Cherokee]

What are we running DOT 4 ?
I remember a DOT 3 for some reason.

 

[Hansolo]

As a retired mechanic I’ll flush mine when it becomes discolored or has water in it which is just about impossible.
but a proper flush should cost about 200 bucks or less

 

[dalola]

Ok sure. But that’s so much moisture it would have no pedal left.

That is also not accurate. It takes very little moisture content to start the corrosion process. Of course it's not an overnight phenomenon, but it's also something that is very easy to prevent from starting in the first place, with timely maintenance.

 

[Snox801]

That is also not accurate. It takes very little moisture content to start the corrosion process. Of course it's not an overnight phenomenon, but it's also something that is very easy to prevent from starting in the first place, with timely maintenance.

I understand what you’re trying to say. But fact is that just doesn’t happen with modern automobiles. In fact go to an automotive shop. Ask them
When the last time they had to replace brake components because of internal corrosion.
As someone who owns many many cars. And who maintains a fleet of work vehicles most which have over 300k. I have yet to see that.

Last year I purchased a 95 yes 95 mustang. Brake fluid has never been changed since new. So the car got the full service. What didn’t it have. Any hint of this incredible damage inside the caliper, lines, or any other part. That’s a long time. In fact by the sounds of it, it should ah e rusted from the Inside out.
Now again I’m not saying he shouldn’t change his fluid. But your take is a bit chicken little here.

 

[jb_cb900]

Spec'd fluid is DOT4 LV (low viscosity), At least for Ecoboost.

The brake system is not vented to atmosphere. The reservoir cap is vented, but the expandable rubber seal is not. As your brakes wear, the level in the reservoir goes down. The caps rubber seal will expand to fill the void in the reservoir. The cap has to be vented to allow the rubber seal to expand.

 

[scottp01]

Just to clarify, the correct term is hygroscopic, not hydroscopic.

Potato, tomato

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