Upgrading the XLT base audio system / door panel removal - finished with lots of pics.

[Buyerfind]

So, after reading this entire thread through to this point, does anyone like the B&O Factory optioned setup? Is the factory sub responsive? and the rest of the speakers?

I am a Hybrid Lariat 360 on the way and mostly listen to Rock - is there a good chance I will be disappointed with the factory B&O??

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[Red Ryder]

So, after reading this entire thread through to this point, does anyone like the B&O Factory optioned setup? Is the factory sub responsive? and the rest of the speakers?

I am a Hybrid Lariat 360 on the way and mostly listen to Rock - is there a good chance I will be disappointed with the factory B&O??

I originally had a Hybrid Lariat Lux 360 ordered and changed to an XLT after seeing the Mavericks in person and trying out the B&O. I listen to the same music as you and realized I was going aftermarket to be satisfied. My preference would have been OEM had it been sufficient, but it is not (for me anyhow). Bear in mind that hi fidelity is very subjective.

 

[Orb1T]

So, after reading this entire thread through to this point, does anyone like the B&O Factory optioned setup? Is the factory sub responsive? and the rest of the speakers?

I am a Hybrid Lariat 360 on the way and mostly listen to Rock - is there a good chance I will be disappointed with the factory B&O??

Mine doesn’t have the factory b&O and I wish I had it so I didn’t have to replaced the front speakers and add a subwoofer. Last week I was at the dealer and heard the factory B&O on a lariat and it sounded good and would have been happy with it. But after I installed the Jbl 6520 and Lopro8 it’s comparable but my setup is more thump and louder. The B&O is a 6x9 and it’s located at the rear bottom right i put my subwoofer right at the center of the bench seats so I can feel and hear every time it hits. I spent less than 300 bucks.

 

[artwrangler]

Did you get the Key installed? How does it sound? If I recall correctly, you were amplifying front and rears rather than bi-amping?

i did, finally! still getting everything dialed in and tuned up, but it’s leaps and bounds better than the stock setup.

i’m just running the front speakers through the key for now, but i’d like to eventually replace the rears and amplify those as well.

i’m not super stoked with the ‘kicker EQ‘ setting on the key. i’d like to be able to do some finer tuning. maybe down the road i’ll look at swapping out the LC2i with something like this.

keep your eyes peeled for a more detailed post about my install experience later this week.

 

[Orb1T]

i did, finally! still getting everything dialed in and tuned up, but it’s leaps and bounds better than the stock setup.

i’m just running the front speakers through the key for now, but i’d like to eventually replace the rears and amplify those as well.

i’m not super stoked with the ‘kicker EQ‘ setting on the key. i’d like to be able to do some finer tuning. maybe down the road i’ll look at swapping out the LC2i with something like this.

keep your eyes peeled for a more detailed post about my install experience later this week.

That’s awesome! I will probably leave my rear speakers alone I tried taking the covers off one side just like everyone I broke the plastic clip in the rear and I was very careful too. That’s how I end up using the front speaker lines. I also relocated slpro8 at the bottom bench middle seats. It’s a big difference! Can’t wait for your detailed post.

 

[Red Ryder]

i did, finally! still getting everything dialed in and tuned up, but it’s leaps and bounds better than the stock setup.

i’m just running the front speakers through the key for now, but i’d like to eventually replace the rears and amplify those as well.

i’m not super stoked with the ‘kicker EQ‘ setting on the key. i’d like to be able to do some finer tuning. maybe down the road i’ll look at swapping out the LC2i with something like this.

keep your eyes peeled for a more detailed post about my install experience later this week.

I have been a bit concerned about not having an EQ, this is my first audio upgrade where I retained the factory headunit. The LCQ-1 looks nice, I wish they had one with a remote head or that there were some adjustable EQ functionality in the Key, even if it required a Bluetooth app.

 

[CowboyCorky]

Has anyone tried out the Powerbass direct replacements? I have been thinking of ordering a set for an easy replacement.The Speakers I'm talking about.

 

[My1stFord]

Has anyone tried out the Powerbass direct replacements? I have been thinking of ordering a set for an easy replacement.The Speakers I'm talking about.

I'd like to see someone more experienced than me chime in but 60 watts 4 ohms doesn't seem very impressive.

 

[Decayed]

I'd like to see someone more experienced than me chime in but 60 watts 4 ohms doesn't seem very impressive.

How many watts does the OEM system put out?

 

[Mavito]

Like the look. Is the Kicker Hideaway 11HS8 150W worth it for bass? I'm thinking of going with the 10 version but not sure if it will fit. Did you have enough space behind the seat for the 10" version?

 

[Rareone]

Finished up my Kicker hideaway install last night thanks to the info in this thread. I simply used wire taps on the wires as they left the head unit connector. (Of course this only applies if youre just installing a sub instead of a new amp etc. for the existing speakers.) Its a little crowded and theres definitely cleaner ways to do it but this is definitely the fastest and doesn't require any cutting of the factory wires, not to mention it'll all come off in seconds if you needed it to. As for the remote I simply tapped into fuse #6 in the cab fusebox. The power and signal wires were all ran on the drivers side and remote on the passenger side.

THANK YOU to everyone who participated in this thread as it contained all the info I could've possibly needed and this was the easiest audio install I've personally ever done.

 

[My1stFord]

Finished up my Kicker hideaway install last night thanks to the info in this thread. I simply used wire taps on the wires as they left the head unit connector. (Of course this only applies if youre just installing a sub instead of a new amp etc. for the existing speakers.) Its a little crowded and theres definitely cleaner ways to do it but this is definitely the fastest and doesn't require any cutting of the factory wires, not to mention it'll all come off in seconds if you needed it to. As for the remote I simply tapped into fuse #6 in the cab fusebox. The power and signal wires were all ran on the drivers side and remote on the passenger side.

THANK YOU to everyone who participated in this thread as it contained all the info I could've possibly needed and this was the easiest audio install I've personally ever done.

That does look like a fantastically simple install. How do you rate the difference over stock? Is it over or underwhelming?

 

[Rareone]

That does look like a fantastically simple install. How do you rate the difference over stock? Is it over or underwhelming?

It definitely was simple. Not a single screw or bolt needs to be removed.
Its obviously not crazy bass but it does vibrate the truck and make a world of a difference, its what the stock system SHOULD sound like from the factory.

In my opinion, with how easy and fast the install is, its a no brainer to just do it.

 

[tehgearz]

Questions before I install as well, you still ran power from the battery through the firewall and to the sub right? Also would you be able to post a picture of the fuse tap?

 

[Rareone]

Questions before I install as well, you still ran power from the battery through the firewall and to the sub right? Also would you be able to post a picture of the fuse tap?

Are you asking me? If so then yes I still ran the power through the firewall. I could post a picture of the fuse tap when I'm back at home but its just one of these things.

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