Upgrading the XLT base audio system / door panel removal - finished with lots of pics.

[Mymaverick2021]

hmmm, this was not the only vendor that sold the module on Amazon. The reason I didn't pull the trigger was because of the answer by the vendor without details. Made me suspect that they would say yes to any compatibility question. So, I'm still looking and want to confirm compatibility before spending $300 to $500 on an upgrade.

I'm still considering which direction to go. I have an ol' school Xact Visor XM radio sitting in a console cubby right now. Leaning on purchasing a Commander Touch with it's small footprint for a temporary solution until the module swap is confirmed. https://www.4dtech.com has tuner and module upgrades...were not committal when I inquired about developing an upgrade to the module for the XL. I'm not concerned, someone will provide a solution, probably sooner than later.

On the same link if you scroll down it shows the same module but with navigation, same price says it's for Ford f150 so I don't know if it will work in the Maverick. But you gotta start somewhere

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[flimay2k]

flimay2k,

Can you elaborate a bit more on the "weirdness" of the Kicker Hideaway? I like the way you architected your system. At this point, I plan similar, but to use the Hideaway HS-10, which typically reviews better than the HS-8, but your input will be helpful. Thanks.

I have a couple of issues with the hideaway, one it can't keep up with the levels on the Kicker Key, I think the 10" will be a lot better.

The other issue is when I put only the sound on the passenger side I get some distortion on the sub sound, it's not there on the driver's side, only at very high volume, but it's there. I replaced the unit and it's the same thing. At lower levels you can't hear it. the signal coming from the head unit is not the same level, and I think this is the issue.

 

[flimay2k]

You mentioned some "good space" between the woofer and plastic grill. Is this more space than the factory speaker had? And do you think it would benefit by adding a spacer and projecting the Morel woofer further into the cabin space (reducing the distance between grill and woofer)? Otherwise, the foam rings will suffice.

I think thicker spacers are best if you want to use speakers with bigger magnets, getting the closer to the grill will help to put the energy inside the cabin as well. I think I had 1.5" of the fast right and did not cut anything so that space could be gained on the spacer if needed, but that's a lot more work when I can buy the adapters and be done with it.

 

[flimay2k]

Made a small update on the install today.

I hated how the place for the B&O logo is empty on the XLT so I used my new toy laser cutter to cut a small morel logo for the doors in orange acrylic. I liked how it look now.

I made a black version and well, but that was a little boring, the orange matches the XLT trim pieces.

And installed.

 

[artwrangler]

Made a small update on the install today.

I hated how the place for the B&O logo is empty on the XLT so I used my new toy laser cutter to cut a small morel logo for the doors in orange acrylic. I liked how it look now.

I made a black version and well, but that was a little boring, the orange matches the XLT trim pieces.

And installed.

sooo good!

hey, thanks a lot for your original post—it gave me the confidence to do this myself (after I got a quote for $500+ just in labor to make the upgrades I want).

this week I'm replacing the front speakers, adding an LC2i, key 200.4, and the 8" hideaway. I won't be running the hideaway from the key, just the LOC. fingers crossed!

 

[Red Ryder]

I made a black version and well, but that was a little boring, the orange matches the XLT trim pieces.

You know you can market these (hint hint).

 

[Red Ryder]

I have a couple of issues with the hideaway, one it can't keep up with the levels on the Kicker Key, I think the 10" will be a lot better.

The other issue is when I put only the sound on the passenger side I get some distortion on the sub sound, it's not there on the driver's side, only at very high volume, but it's there. I replaced the unit and it's the same thing. At lower levels you can't hear it. the signal coming from the head unit is not the same level, and I think this is the issue.

As I read you describing that the Hideaway wasn't keeping up with the Key, I starting wondering if the Ford headunit is rolling off the bass at higher volume levels? If that's the case, Audio Controls LOC's supposedly can compensate for that.

artwrangler posted that they were going with the LC2i for the Hideaway. It will be interesting if it cleans up the issues at higher volume levels better than the Hideaway's speaker-level inputs.

 

[artwrangler]

As I read you describing that the Hideaway wasn't keeping up with the Key, I starting wondering if the Ford headunit is rolling off the bass at higher volume levels? If that's the case, Audio Controls LOC's supposedly can compensate for that.

artwrangler posted that they were going with the LC2i for the Hideaway. It will be interesting if it cleans up the issues at higher volume levels better than the Hideaway's speaker-level inputs.

yeah, if it’s not too much work, i’d like to do some baseline recordings of the sound from the speaker-level inputs to the hideaway and compare it once the LC2i is installed. i have a decent mic and made some recordings of the stock system—i’m not an audio engineer by any means, but i thought it’d be fun to hear the difference once all the upgrades are made. i’ll post them once they’re ready.

new door speakers are in! although i just realized i forgot the foam ring on the driver’s side, so off the door panel goes again. they’re sounding good and LOUD already, even without the amp.

 

[Red Ryder]

new door speakers are in! although i just realized i forgot the foam ring on the driver’s side, so off the door panel goes again. they’re sounding good and LOUD already, even without the amp.

Great! Which speakers did you install?

 

[artwrangler]

1. When removing the door panel, after loosening all the clips, lift up on the door panel to free it. When putting it back on, Push forward firmly on the top of the door panel, holding it up higher toward the window, and slide downward. There is a lip on the back of the door panel that needs to seat in a slot at the top of the door in front of the window.

THANK YOU for this. mine are a little gappy at the top after putting them back on; will try this tonight.

any tricks to getting the a-pillar back on? both of mine are kind of flopping down from the top and i’m not sure what i did wrong. clips are in fine, but there’s a wider tab in the center that fits into a rubber slot that seems loose.

 

[artwrangler]

Great! Which speakers did you install?

i went with the infinity reference RF-6532IX. they’re coax, not components, because this is my first car audio project and i was nervous about mounting the tweeters. i may put some in eventually but these are sounding pretty sweet so far.

 

[Orb1T]

i went with the infinity reference RF-6532IX. they’re coax, not components, because this is my first car audio project and i was nervous about mounting the tweeters. i may put some in eventually but these are sounding pretty sweet so far.

How was it? I have the clubman jbl 6520. It’s ok not the best But much better than stocks

 

[flimay2k]

As I read you describing that the Hideaway wasn't keeping up with the Key, I starting wondering if the Ford headunit is rolling off the bass at higher volume levels? If that's the case, Audio Controls LOC's supposedly can compensate for that.

@artwrangler posted that they were going with the LC2i for the Hideaway. It will be interesting if it cleans up the issues at higher volume levels better than the Hideaway's speaker-level inputs.

There's definitely some processing in the signal from the HU. I wish I had an RTA to check and confirm. I got the signal from the front speaker because I thought I'd had a better chance at a full spectrum.

Adding the LC2i is a good idea, the Kicker Key can restore the signal so that is good for my front speakers. I think the hideaway can restore the bass as well, I'm not 100% on that. I'll add a LOC with individual gain control per channel to match the signal front left-right and I hope that will solve the issue.

I'm happy with the sound as is, don't want to put any more money into it, I don't think it will improve that much.

 

[Red Ryder]

I'm happy with the sound as is, don't want to put any more money into it, I don't think it will improve that much.

I understand. You seem to have hit the sweet spot on performance/cost.

It will be interesting what artwrangler discovers with the LC2i.

It got me wondering about putting the LC2i behind the glovebox and running two sets of pre-amp cables to the Hideaway and Key (behind the seat as you did). The LC2i can provide unmolested preamp signal to the Key so it can do its thing, and bass preamp to the Hideaway with the AccuBASS processing. The LC2i could also provide remote on for both Kicker devices, so I could consolidate that.

Another thought: If both the Key and LC2i would fit behind the glovebox, then my speaker-level runs would be short and all I would need to the back is RCA preamp and remote wire.

I may be making it too complex, but I have a while as mine isn't scheduled until late December/early Jan.

Meanwhile, my pile grows:

 

[Orb1T]

Made a small update on the install today.

I hated how the place for the B&O logo is empty on the XLT so I used my new toy laser cutter to cut a small morel logo for the doors in orange acrylic. I liked how it look now.

I made a black version and well, but that was a little boring, the orange matches the XLT trim pieces.

And installed.

just curious can i run the power from passenger side vs goin thru firewall to add the power or it needs to be directly to the battery? thinking bout the kicker subwoofer. thnks

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