Upgrading the Maverick B&O Sound System - DIY Howto

[Nw_adventure]

Settled on an Infinity Reference 3.5".

I thought the stock center was 4 inches - which infinity model # ? Thx - Also curious if any sound gains can be had by replacing the 6x9 sub with aftermarket ?

Sponsored

 

[Darnon]

I thought the stock center was 4 inches - which infinity model # ? Thx - Also curious if any sound gains can be had by replacing the 6x9 sub with aftermarket ?

Infinity Reference 3032CFX.

 

[Nw_adventure]

Infinity Reference 3032CFX.

Thx. Looks to be oy sold in pairs ?

 

[Darnon]

Thx. Looks to be oy sold in pairs ?

Yes, in pairs. In my case I happened to catch someone who had likewise only needed one for a center speaker selling the other on eBay so I got it for nearly half the price.

 

[Nw_adventure]

Yes, in pairs. In my case I happened to catch someone who had likewise only needed one for a center speaker selling the other on eBay so I got it for nearly half the price.

$47 for the pair on Amazon- So it made a noticeable difference ?

 

[Darnon]

$47 for the pair on Amazon- So it made a noticeable difference ?

It does a lot to clear up the bit of 'clock radio' tinniness in the stock center speaker. The Infinity wasn't as big an improvement over the cheap MB Quart I initially replaced it with, but it doesn't require chopping off the coax tweeter dome. The only further thing I might try is soldering on the optional bass blocker that comes with the Infinity. It doesn't get as badly muddied by boosting the midrange as the stock unit, but there's still some times where it sounds like it's better leaving the low-mids to the door woofers.

 

[Darnon]

Actually it looks like the extra capacitor that Infinity includes is for even lower frequencies (~145hz @270uf) than the one that comes pre-installed ([email protected]).

 

[2016BoostedGreyGoose]

Actually it looks like the extra capacitor that Infinity includes is for even lower frequencies (~145hz @270uf) than the one that comes pre-installed ([email protected]).

Since you went with components, why not use the passive x-over with the front door speakers and the tweeters? Or did I miss something. I like the direction you have gone with the use of the small footprint amps!

 

[Nw_adventure]

It does a lot to clear up the bit of 'clock radio' tinniness in the stock center speaker. The Infinity wasn't as big an improvement over the cheap MB Quart I initially replaced it with, but it doesn't require chopping off the coax tweeter dome. The only further thing I might try is soldering on the optional bass blocker that comes with the Infinity. It doesn't get as badly muddied by boosting the midrange as the stock unit, but there's still some times where it sounds like it's better leaving the low-mids to the door woofers.

Thanks will probably push the button on that center replacement- Although I will say it seems like the speakers/amp whatever comes with the B/O are sounding much better after breaking them in. -

 

[Darnon]

Since you went with components, why not use the passive x-over with the front door speakers and the tweeters? Or did I miss something. I like the direction you have gone with the use of the small footprint amps!

I was referring to the center speaker there. That gets it signal straight off the head unit and I'm unsure what, if any, frequency cutoff there may be.

A passive crossover is unnecessary for the tweeters/door woofers in my case as the Kicker Key splits them actively.

 

[OTACORB]

Interesting to read through this thread. I guess I have reached old geezer status as the B&O sound system in my Lariat sounds damn good to me. Keep it going though.... fun to read.

 

[2016BoostedGreyGoose]

I guess the PAC APH-FD02
is the closest bypass harness for the B&O system in the Maverick... it isn't idea by any stretch. The connector at the amp uses a black Molex 20 pin connector and the amplified harness bypass adapter uses a grey 20 pin male and female Te Connectivity connectors. Completely different pins and terms. I'm going to build my own B&O bypass harness as a modular design using the correct male and female Molex connectors and RCAs connected to the the speaker wires from the adapter for a closer PnP design. Doing this will remove the need to trim/cut/alter any connector. Will share pics of what I come up with. The Ford FSM is contradictory of wire assignment call outs as what they show populated at the connector at the B&O amp is oddly different from the audio wiring diagram of the 8 speaker system in the same FSM. Like the OP shared.... the B&O amp (DSP)strangely powers only the L&R dash speakers (tweeters), the front door speakers, and the 6x9 sub. The center channel 3 1/2" and the 4 "C pillar speakers are strangely ran off of the ACM.

 

[Darnon]

The only thing keeping the PAC APH-FD02 from being plug and play is the external rib on the connectors not matching. You can just trim the harness itself and not need to make any modification to the vehicle side for reversibility. The electrical connections all match up aside from, obviously, the tweeters occupying what's labelled as the rear channel.

 

[Dellis]

Think a pair of these would fit under the back seat in the storage compartments?

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/alpine...oofer-enclosure-black/6333699.p?skuId=6333699

I haven't really messed with car audio since my last install in 2017 in my ford explorer. I don't have the resources or time to play with this kind of stuff like I used to(wife hates my love for car audio and gives me the stank eye when I talk about it).

 

[Gullzway]

Interesting to read through this thread. I guess I have reached old geezer status as the B&O sound system in my Lariat sounds damn good to me. Keep it going though.... fun to read.

Out of Curiosity, could you go to Audio settings and put the Fader all the way to the rear speakers and tell me how it sounds. Surely it wasn't just mine that sounded awful. I'm talking 80's Walkman speaker awful sounding.

Sponsored