Top End cleaner to prevent carbon buildup on valve stems.

[jb_cb900]

I do have clean and dirty side catch cans and I'm using Mobil 1 with 5k change intervals. I plan on doing this cleaning process using Berryman or AC Delco Top End Cleaner. The dirty side catch can feeds into the full vacuum port just above the throttle plate. Feeding the cleaner through that hose should provide fairly even distribution to all intake ports. I have 10k miles, now, and will repeat this process at that interval. Hopefully, this will keep buildup to a minimum.
Thanks for inputs.

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[TheSEARCH]

That does absolutely nothing for the backside of the intake valves. the 2.0L DIRECT INJECTION means it is sprayed into the combustion chamber directly. Not in front of the valves. THe crud that gets stuck to the valves is oil vapor and moisture from the PCV system.
THe only real fix is either installing catch cans (helps) or what @sanpablo is using.
Fuel system treatments are snake oil for the ecoboosts. You are correct that it cant hurt. But it does absolutely nothing to the backside of the intake valve. If you had a "port" Injected engine; then the additive would work.
BUt again, it wont hurt your engine. Just not gonna clean the deposits that are on the backside of the intake valves.
I had to have my wifes 2020 2.0L edge walnut blasted at 50K due to the engine started running rough. THat was the fix as the deposits were too thick by then for the CRC Valve cleaner to do any good.

I added catch cans and I will do the CRC at the next oil change. (20K) miles. (On my Maverick that is) Sold the 2020 Edge and she now has a 2024 Edge.

Yea the guys who think a type of gasoline will have an effect on intake build up of oil deposits don't understand the intake valves NEVER see any gasoline. Catch can is it. Unless you can add port injection like the one mentioned above .

 

[rlhdweman]

I use the CRC intake valve cleaner on my wife's DI 2015 Honda CRV every 20,000 miles. Many disagree but for $10-12 I'm comfortable using it. I spray it in the brake booster port on the intake.

I bought some of this with the intension of using every 5000 miles or so, but I am concerned is there any sensor that could be damaged by using this or & I wouldn't want to spray it into a hot turbo.

 

[Bob The Builder]

I agree with oil changes every 5000 miles. I use Mobile 1 full synthetic oil.

Totally agree. Mobil One oil, I change it every 3500 miles an run a top tier 91 octane E-Free gas for the lugging issue. Catch cans and the like are not in my future. I drive 4K a year and will be long planted in the ground before it becomes an issue. Never sweat the small shit.

 

[Tim d]

Totally agree. Mobil One oil, I change it every 3500 miles an run a top tier 91 octane E-Free gas for the lugging issue. Catch cans and the like are not in my future. I drive 4K a year and will be long planted in the ground before it becomes an issue. Never sweat the small shit.

Agree with some of this. I go 5000 with oil changes and always use 87 octanne.

 

[jb_cb900]

Can't speak for the CRC product, but Berryman says their 2611 Valve/Combustion chamber cleaner is NOT safe for MAP sensors. There is a MAP sensor on the left front of the intake manifold. There's no way around it. I will remove and plug the hole while appling this product. Looks like there is an EVAP Line port on the left side with a quick-connect, just above the throttle plate assembly. Should be a good location to inject the cleaner.

 

[Ozarkbeard]

Not a concern. Just use Top Tier Fuel.

This.

The user manual even recommends using TopTier fuel. It's available in all grades at stations that sell it. TopTier website has a station finder on it.

 

[Bob The Builder]

Agree with some of this. I go 5000 with oil changes and always use 87 octanne.

Actually 5 K is fine. I need to address my OCD which mandates 3500. I have no say in the matter. As for the gas, it really helps with that low RPM lugging some EB's seem to experience, including mine. Cost is negligible as I only drive 4 K a year. A little more power and slightly better gas mileage helps offset some of the extra cost.

 

[coppermav]

I try to not lose sleep over carbon buildup. I do Mobil 1 full synthetic every 4-5k miles(closer to 4) and try to limit idling and short trips. Mine only gets premium from busy Top Tier stations, and occasionally I do an Italian tune-up on an entrance ramp once she's nice and warm.

 

[BoboysTruck]

I am currently using R&P on a 2020 Honda Pilot (~60k mi) and will keep it in there for my typical 10k interval.

We recently purchase a 2020 Honda Pilot. I would greatly appreciate more information on this, what it is and what it does. Thank you.

 

[AVC]

We recently purchase a 2020 Honda Pilot. I would greatly appreciate more information on this, what it is and what it does. Thank you.

 

[jb_cb900]

Darn it! If these results are accurate, now I'll have to remove my catch-cans so I can get oil vapors to the back side if the valves. I just can't win.

Thanks for the link to the video.

 

[AVC]

Darn it! If these results are accurate, now I'll have to remove my catch-cans so I can get oil vapors to the back side if the valves. I just can't win.

Thanks for the link to the video.

Well, maybe not. The fallacy of catch cans, IMO, is few know how much oil mist makes it past one or two catch cans. i.e. the OEM may be the only one able to measure how much oil is lost via PCV path, vs past rings, valve stems, etc. vs engine hours or over a typical OCI. Then, and only then, would one know how effective the catch cans are. And, in many testimonials, the catch can contents have more water (condensate) in them than actual oil.

If you want R&P to work its best on valve deposits--whatever oil makes it past your catch cans and carbonizes on the valves-- then yes remove or bypass the catch cans, IMO.

 

[jb_cb900]

You're correct about the cans catching more water than oil, at least during colder months. Summertime, there is water present, but its more of a gooey mess. The fact that there is oil and water present in the catch-cans (even with 2 seperate PVC systems incorporated onto this engine) makes me feel like its better than nothing. I've been fortunate to have gotten over 250k miles, each, out of my last 2 Fords. Hoping for the same with this truck.

 

[Jalopy Technology]

If you use a gasoline additive make sure the ingredients contain amine… that’s the only product that will help keep deposits down. Yes it costs more…

If Ford used a gapless piston ring setup blow by would not be a concern. While Total Seal is the go to outfit that produces them today they are 100 year old technology having been used on aircraft engines during WWI.

Whats old is new.

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