The Dreaded Dead Hybrid

[HeyBales]

Thank you for this. I took a quick look. I think i can do this. I'm not paying $2,900.

I dropped it off at the dealer and first thing they said was it needs a new battery. I said it does not, battery is good. It's an AGM I installed in December. I told him I've been driving it by jump starting it using it's own battery by connecting a jumper cable from battery positive to BJB jumper post. But SA said they can not start troubleshooting without trying battery first because my battery failed their test. I think it's BS. I told him about 22B39. He said they'll check into it.

You will likely have to spell things out for the SA.

Where did they test the battery from?

Their answer will likely allow you to tell them they just did the troubleshooting - good V at battery, bad V from underhood - you just proved the issue.

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[BoboysTruck]

You will likely have to spell things out for the SA.

Where did they test the battery from?

Their answer will likely allow you to tell them they just did the troubleshooting - good V at battery, bad V from underhood - you just proved the issue.

SA said they removed my battery from the Mav when they tested it.

When I was troubleshooting it, I was getting battery voltage under the hood with the cable not connected to the BJB bus bar, or even when the cable is connected but the two big connectors to the BJB box are unplugged. Voltage drops to 3.X V as soon as either one of the big connectors is plugged in to the BJB box

 

[BoboysTruck]

Got an update from the SA. They have been testing it by starting the Mav all morning and it's been working. It's ready for pickup. If I want the the CSP 22B39 done, it will cost me $1,341.
A couple of posters are saying no one here needs to figure out how to fix this or why bother fixing this ourselves because I have warranty extension. Just FYI, NOT EVERYTHING IS COVERED by warranty.
Plus some of us enjoy DIYing. We revel in it when we fix problems ourselves.

If this problem happens again, I will order the cable and replace it myself. CSP 22B39 is no different than me connecting a jumper cable from the positive post of my battery to the jump post in the BJB junction.

 

[BoboysTruck]

Just an update on my battery that they say failed their test. I measured voltage at the posts and i was getting 12.6V. I used it to start my brother's Dodge Dakota that's been parked in my backyard for a couple of years. Battery is completely dead. It struggled a little bit but it started.
The Mav has been working like it should but it makes me wonder if the problem really is fixed.

 

[Suzukiridr14]

Unfortunately, I did not get the cable replaced. I was not having the problem. I will pull the fuse later when I get home.
I remember some guys doing a DIY fix with the cable but can't find it. Hopefully, someone can link me to that. In the meantime, will jump starting the truck be a temporary fix for now? Will it stay running and not die in the middle of the road?

The fact that there was a recall for this problem, Ford is responsible to fix the problem at no cost to you. the amount of time that passed, makes no difference.

 

[HeyBales]

The fact that there was a recall for this problem, Ford is responsible to fix the problem at no cost to you. the amount of time that passed, makes no difference.

Sadly it's not a recall.

CSP - Customer Satisfaction Program
If you have the issue, they'll take care of it. In this case they wanted to sooner than later.
Since the issue could be duplicated thru time and wear/tear and not the manufacturing defect - there can be time limits.

It would be like having one on a batch of tires that had some bad samples with cords moving around.
They'll replace if you show the issue within a time or mileage limit in that case.
But you come in with tread worn down 20k miles later and signs you hit a curb - uh no, not free replacement.

https://dot.report/bulletins/MC-10238866-0001.pdf

 

[HeyBales]

If you need to do the cable solution - here's a thread where the same overlay was going to be done - but recommended to do the problem cable crimp.

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...lay-used-to-address-no-start-condition.53548/

 

[BoboysTruck]

If you need to do the cable solution - here's a thread where the same overlay was going to be done - but recommended to do the problem cable crimp.

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...lay-used-to-address-no-start-condition.53548/

I'm leaning towards this now because the CSP instructions does not remove the old cable. It's left in the trick with the crimps cut and the tips of the cable wrapped in shrink tubing.
Even if I have to buy a hydraulic crimper then heat it up and melt some solder in it, I'd still save some money plus I'd prefer to use the old cable. The thing is I can't find aluminum eyelets. It is okay to use tinned copper eyelet with the aluminum cable?

 

[BlueSpec1]

I doubt soldering would work.

Crimping a lug onto the aluminum wire looks like tight access to the wire.
I guess Ford Boss Me was able to get one on in his video.

See a few of the overlay cables for sale:
2022 Genuine Ford Maverick Battery Cable To Starter Motor NZ6Z-14300-D

Ran across tin plated aluminum compression lugs at Home Depot while looking at what Panduit, Burndy, Ilsco have.
Noalox compound is recommended on aluminum to aluminum connections, crimps.
Some AL lugs come with it preinstalled.

Aluminum 1-Hole Straight Short Barrel Compression Lug for #2/0 Stranded Wire, Olive
Aluminum 1-Hole Straight Short Barrel Compression Lug for 4/0 Stranded Wire in White

I've no experience crimping aluminum lugs, only copper:

 

[skinnyboy]

I'm leaning towards this now because the CSP instructions does not remove the old cable. It's left in the trick with the crimps cut and the tips of the cable wrapped in shrink tubing.
Even if I have to buy a hydraulic crimper then heat it up and melt some solder in it, I'd still save some money plus I'd prefer to use the old cable. The thing is I can't find aluminum eyelets. It is okay to use tinned copper eyelet with the aluminum cable?

Have you checked the positive cable end at the fuse box where they fail to confirm it has failed? Seeing the space you have to work with to crimp a new termination might be useful before buying any tools as well. IIRC it was really tight when I checked mine.

Cheers.

 

[HeyBales]

Have you checked the positive cable end at the fuse box where they fail to confirm it has failed? Seeing the space you have to work with to crimp a new termination might be useful before buying any tools as well. IIRC it was really tight when I checked mine.

Cheers.

I wonder if it's possible to undo a couple wire holders at the start so the head can perhaps drop down and give more room to work with underneath.
I was just picturing working with PEX and crimp connectors, so much easier to confirm length with where final connections would be and orientation, but then pull a section back to workable area for actual crimping.

Though, wonder if they are 1-time use cable holders...

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