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So, NO START this morning. What is it?

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Surly Old Bill

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How did you check it? With the battery still connected to the truck? Yeah, the 'no start' is a terrible feeling. How old is your Mav?
I tested just voltage connected and with NEG terminal disconnected; same approximate voltage.
1 year of use; 2024 model hybrid XL.
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mwelby

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My truck is new enough that there shouldn't be any problems. There haven't been any problems.

Out of the blue:
This morning I go to start it and I get a bunch of error messages on the dash, everything from front camera to traction assist and everything else. I check the 12v battery and it says 11.8vdc. I jump it with a jumpstarter and the engine turns on, so I assumed it was all to do with a low battery for some reason (Ford factory batteries don't have the best reputation, but I think there would be some previous warnings that it was going bad). The dash lights stay lit, including check engine, I get the "service soon" message.

I assumed this was because of a low battery and this stuff would clear itself after idling a while. Nope, I pull out of the driveway and am in "limp home mode".

WTF?

Has anyone dealt with this? Hopefully I don't have to go to a disservice center and leave it there for weeks until they get around to it.
cuz online sellers say H5? Of course the OEM Battery doesn't have any size designation I can discern upside down on the label.
Just watched YouTube video on getting all kinds of bogus messages. Try disconnecting negative battery terminal. Step on brake pedal and hold several times to bleed off electrical components. Wait at least 30 minutes before reconnecting negative terminal. Often this will clear the ecm/pcm of all the “ghost” erroneous messages and you should be good. Haven’t personally tried it, but makes sense.
 
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Surly Old Bill

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Surly, this is a well known problem at Ford dealers. First, drop by the Service Department and speak with a Service Advisor that you've built a relationship with. If you haven't done that yet, do it ... someone you can work with in the future when things come up. Explain all this stuff to him or her. Then, make the appointment. This is the way I handled my 12V battery problem. When I brought it in, It took a couple of hours for them to test the battery then change it to a brand spankin new AGM. By the way, I had a back up plan. Thanks to postings here, I had an AGM selected on AMAZON for a whole lot less than $200, under $150 in fact.
My best dealer experience was with my Transit(not Connect) having the torque converter going out just a few thousand miles before drivetrain warranty expired at 60k. They very reluctantly let me keep it until the parts were in stock at that disservice center, and then I dropped it off. Was told it would be two working days (pick it up three days after dropping off) and it turned out to be only 6 working days to my delight. I was expecting at least two weeks, despite what they said. And they offered a $25/day credit toward a rental car at a rental place they worked with, so it only cost me about $40/day out of pocket (I always get the full coverage insurance).

Other than not replacing some nuts and bolts on the suspension, and getting grease on the driver' door and seat and interior door handle, the torque converter replacement itself was perfect, no problems in the 100k since it was put in.
 

Timothyd

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My truck is new enough that there shouldn't be any problems. There haven't been any problems.

Out of the blue:
This morning I go to start it and I get a bunch of error messages on the dash, everything from front camera to traction assist and everything else. I check the 12v battery and it says 11.8vdc. I jump it with a jumpstarter and the engine turns on, so I assumed it was all to do with a low battery for some reason (Ford factory batteries don't have the best reputation, but I think there would be some previous warnings that it was going bad). The dash lights stay lit, including check engine, I get the "service soon" message.

I assumed this was because of a low battery and this stuff would clear itself after idling a while. Nope, I pull out of the driveway and am in "limp home mode".

WTF?

Has anyone dealt with this? Hopefully I don't have to go to a disservice center and leave it there for weeks until they get around to it.
https://www.linkedin.com/posts/rahu...d&rcm=ACoAAAZWDm8BHyGrXoil0pSKq4f3UVU3i91ZxCQ
 

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Surly Old Bill

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This morning's test results, battery disconnected for over 12 hours:
No drop in voltage

I'm wondering if the low battery overnight the other day was a one-off occurrence, but I can't think of anything left on that would drain the battery. I'll have to check all the light and other switches in the cab to see if I bumped one from it's usual setting.

Next test: Leave battery connected and check voltage at night and the next morning.

Maybe I don't have to get a new battery; but being an OEM battery I suspect I do.
 

SafetyGuy

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This morning's test results, battery disconnected for over 12 hours:
No drop in voltage

I'm wondering if the low battery overnight the other day was a one-off occurrence, but I can't think of anything left on that would drain the battery. I'll have to check all the light and other switches in the cab to see if I bumped one from it's usual setting.

Next test: Leave battery connected and check voltage at night and the next morning.

Maybe I don't have to get a new battery; but being an OEM battery I suspect I do.
Hmm, no voltage drop overnight is interesting.

If it was a sudden over night voltage drop it could be several things...

-Do you have any added on electrical items that could have drained it for you this one time?

-Could it be a possible high drain event caused by one of your modules? I have read other threads discussing the Air Conditioning Module as a possible point of interest.

If so, discussing this concern with your dealer and having it booked in to have it checked out and have modules updated might be an appropriate next step.

If needed, I hope your service experience is better then when you had your Transit (not Connect) van in for repairs!

Again, I haven't had any of these issues but regularly hook up my best AGM appropriate charger (every month or two) and do a full charge cycle or three.

Then I double check to make sure I have disconnected everything (like my dash cam, USB plugs and USB light) and lock it up for 10 hours so it can sit and have a couple coats of think about it's job in life. ;-)

Have a good one,

Andy
 
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Surly Old Bill

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If so, discussing this concern with your dealer and having it booked in to have it checked out and have modules updated might be an appropriate next step.
going to a dealer and not having use of my vehicle for days/weeks is only an option of last resort.
I understand there are people who have no experience/skill with mechanical things and MUST go to a repair shop for even minor things, but I am not one of them. Or perhaps they have additional vehicles to use (I do, actually), or plenty of time on their hands (I don't). In my 50 years of vehicle ownership, I have learned to avoid dealership disservice centers if at all possible. Difficult and expensive issues like the torque converter on the Transit(not Connect) are one thing, but a bad battery or rattling dash is something completely different and not worth the lost time compared to the "savings" of warranty tinkering with almost always additional damage to the vehicle.

Maybe things are different outside of the cities, but that's how it goes here.
 

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Why is battery saver mode different on the hybrid than it is on the EB? On my EB when it goes into BSM I do not get a notification on the app. Remote Start still works, fuel level, etc. The only notification I get is when I open the door and the interior lights do not come on until the key is inserted.

The truck has always started with no alerts, lights or anything. The only quirk in this if you want to call it that is the 12V Power Port will stop working when the doors open sooner than when the interior lights stop working. Seems like there is a higher threshold for the Power Port than for the interior lights.
 
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Why is battery saver mode different on the hybrid than it is on the EB? On my EB when it goes into BSM I do not get a notification on the app. Remote Start still works, fuel level, etc. The only notification I get is when I open the door and the interior lights do not come on until the key is inserted.

The truck has always started with no alerts, lights or anything. The only quirk in this if you want to call it that is the 12V Power Port will stop working when the doors open sooner than when the interior lights stop working. Seems like there is a higher threshold for the Power Port than for the interior lights.
Mine has gone into power saver mode last winter when it was really cold (-20C) but never had a problem starting it. This winter was a hell of a lot warmer and only experienced this now which doesn’t make sense, unless…….. ?
 

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Mine has gone into power saver mode last winter when it was really cold (-20C) but never had a problem starting it. This winter was a hell of a lot warmer and only experienced this now which doesn’t make sense, unless…….. ?
....unless your battery is going south on you. One wouldn't think so your truck being a '24, but anything is possible I suppose.
 

Andrew-25Mav

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My truck is new enough that there shouldn't be any problems. There haven't been any problems.

Out of the blue:
This morning I go to start it and I get a bunch of error messages on the dash, everything from front camera to traction assist and everything else. I check the 12v battery and it says 11.8vdc. I jump it with a jumpstarter and the engine turns on, so I assumed it was all to do with a low battery for some reason (Ford factory batteries don't have the best reputation, but I think there would be some previous warnings that it was going bad). The dash lights stay lit, including check engine, I get the "service soon" message.

I assumed this was because of a low battery and this stuff would clear itself after idling a while. Nope, I pull out of the driveway and am in "limp home mode".

WTF?

Has anyone dealt with this? Hopefully I don't have to go to a disservice center and leave it there for weeks until they get around to it.
You got better results than I did, when mine did that (twice now), jump box did nothing. Disconnecting the ground from the battery and reconnecting reset everything and all was well again.

Yes my battery was low, and it did it both times after sitting over night and going for a short drive, next start, freak out.

Andrew
 

Andrew-25Mav

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All that is written, yes.
In mine I left the battery OUT of the truck for 12 hours. Put it in.
Did nothing else. And it relearned everything instantly.
The 12 hours without power seemed to do the same reset. At a minimum made it forget what it previously knew.

If lacking a magnetic socket or using stainless hardware, a sliver of tape in the socket works just as well.
Seeing you've done this long term battery disconnect, do you know how to lock up the vehicle with no battery in it? Yes the drivers door has a key, but without a battery the rest of the doors won't lock.
 

Andrew-25Mav

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Seeing you've done this long term battery disconnect, do you know how to lock up the vehicle with no battery in it? Yes the drivers door has a key, but without a battery the rest of the doors won't lock.
Nevermind, I just found the manual lock "switches", never noticed them before.
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