Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution.

[edin702]

Was thinking of adding a Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-10 or P300-8 to my lariat with the B&O system and just tapping into the factory sub with the included bed harness plug that was in the glovebox. Any issues doing this with a Hybrid? Just a bit worred about that. The P300 has 20a fuses so its under crutchfields "warning"

Anyone use the auto detect feature on the all in one amp/subs without having to run a remote wire? Just dont want to come back to a dead battery. If not what fuse is reconended to tap into? Thanks!

Haven't done car audio in awhile I had it in my previous car but that was installed long ago, used to have 2 12"s then downgraded to a single 12" and amped the doors.

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[FreedomPenguin]

Just run to fuse 6 remote turn on, use a tap. 3/6 are good fuses, when unlocked etc radio sends signal and wakes up sub. I read this in like 20 threads.

 

[rallyshark]

Was thinking of adding a Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-10 or P300-8 to my lariat with the B&O system and just tapping into the factory sub with the included bed harness plug that was in the glovebox. Any issues doing this with a Hybrid? Just a bit worred about that. The P300 has 20a fuses so its under crutchfields "warning"

Anyone use the auto detect feature on the all in one amp/subs without having to run a remote wire? Just dont want to come back to a dead battery. If not what fuse is reconended to tap into? Thanks!

Haven't done car audio in awhile I had it in my previous car but that was installed long ago, used to have 2 12"s then downgraded to a single 12" and amped the doors.

Yep, @FreedomPenguin is correct. DO NOT use auto detect for amp turn on, unless you want to drain your battery from the amp being on when it shouldn't be. Using a dedicated turn on from fuse 3 or 6 is the way to go. Don't worry about the 20A current draw or Crutchfield's warning. That's just a generalized CYA statement on their part. It won't even know you've got it hooked up, haha. I've been running a 60A setup for 60k miles myself, with no issues whatsoever. I know there are others running 100A setups with no issues. The HV battery's DC to DC converter that charges the 12v battery(takes place of alternator) is capable of well over 200A, fwiw You'll be perfectly fine with the current draw.

As for using the plug, I'm not sure if it connects or not. I don't have a B&O, but I do know many have used the signal from the B&O to go to aftermarket sub amps. Even if you have wire it in without a plug, it should be fairly painless. What you're wanting to do in general should be a walk in the park.

 

[FreedomPenguin]

I ordered this to use on fuse 6 personally. It should work, and if it don’t; I’m just going to solder a wire to top of a fuse lol. That’s what it looks like some fuse taps do. Doesn’t look hard to do

 

[edin702]

Yep, @FreedomPenguin is correct. DO NOT use auto detect for amp turn on, unless you want to drain your battery from the amp being on when it shouldn't be. Using a dedicated turn on from fuse 3 or 6 is the way to go. Don't worry about the 20A current draw or Crutchfield's warning. That's just a generalized CYA statement on their part. It won't even know you've got it hooked up, haha. I've been running a 60A setup for 60k miles myself, with no issues whatsoever. I know there are others running 100A setups with no issues. The HV battery's DC to DC converter that charges the 12v battery(takes place of alternator) is capable of well over 200A, fwiw You'll be perfectly fine with the current draw.

As for using the plug, I'm not sure if it connects or not. I don't have a B&O, but I do know many have used the signal from the B&O to go to aftermarket sub amps. Even if you have wire it in without a plug, it should be fairly painless. What you're wanting to do in general should be a walk in the park.

Thank you! Bascally hardest part is hiding the remote wire, I assume I can ground it somewhere in the back if I recall a few other posts.

 

[FreedomPenguin]

Thank you! Bascally hardest part is hiding the remote wire, I assume I can ground it somewhere in the back if I recall a few other posts.

Tons of grounding spots, it’s a remote turn on, it can literally be ticked so easier bc tiny. Prob don’t even have to pop any plastics just tuck em under

 

[edin702]

How does the hybrid system behave when adding an amp? Like when sitting idle for example and the engine shuts off? Surely it wouldn't allow it to drain the 12v when the engine is not running correct? But then again i assume running the heat or AC would pull more than an amp with a 20a fuse.

Another thing to tackle later would be the rattles. I noticed a bit of rattle when just sitting testing the factory system but havent found the exact area yet.

 

[Toddman45]

How does the hybrid system behave when adding an amp? Like when sitting idle for example and the engine shuts off? Surely it wouldn't allow it to drain the 12v when the engine is not running correct? But then again i assume running the heat or AC would pull more than an amp with a 20a fuse.

Another thing to tackle later would be the rattles. I noticed a bit of rattle when just sitting testing the factory system but havent found the exact area yet.

Can't comment on hybrid but definitely worth adding sound deadening material in the doors on them and other areas of the interior. I did inside all the doors as well as footwells and under rear seat storage area used 2 boxes with 10 sheets in each.

 

[FreedomPenguin]

Can't comment on hybrid but definitely worth adding sound deadening material in the doors on them and other areas of the interior. I did inside all the doors as well as footwells and under rear seat storage area used 2 boxes with 10 sheets in each.

Was there no vapor barrier on the door skins? That’s interesting if not

What brand is blue? I’ve only used dyamat extreme and stinger roadkill. Both worked well, but I pay the premium for the dynamat extreme now. Works well

but deafening in the all the same

 

[Toddman45]

Was there no vapor barrier on the door skins? That’s interesting if not

What brand is blue? I’ve only used dyamat extreme and stinger roadkill. Both worked well, but I pay the premium for the dynamat extreme now. Works well

but deafening in the all the same

Yes it's just standard cheap clear plastic sheeting, you can see the butyl where I removed it to install the Amazon basics sound deadening sheets. It did a great job at reducing road noise and the hollow sound of the doors previously.

 

[FreedomPenguin]

Yes it's just standard cheap clear plastic sheeting, you can see the butyl where I removed it to install the Amazon basics sound deadening sheets. It did a great job at reducing road noise and the hollow sound of the doors previously.

I’m on iPhone I did see the black outline which I did assume prob had it.
thanks! Will be doing that when I get the truck.

curious what brand is blue of deadener? Pricy?

 

[Aaron F]

I’m on iPhone I did see the black outline which I did assume prob had it.
thanks! Will be doing that when I get the truck.

curious what brand is blue of deadener? Pricy?

The blue is Amazon basics. Very affordable, middle of the road performance I think. I liked it better than killmat

 

[FreedomPenguin]

The blue is Amazon basics. Very affordable, middle of the road performance I think. I liked it better than killmat

Amazon will take over the world one day.

 

[PanchoBarrancas]

Yep, @FreedomPenguin is correct. DO NOT use auto detect for amp turn on, unless you want to drain your battery from the amp being on when it shouldn't be. Using a dedicated turn on from fuse 3 or 6 is the way to go. Don't worry about the 20A current draw or Crutchfield's warning. That's just a generalized CYA statement on their part. It won't even know you've got it hooked up, haha. I've been running a 60A setup for 60k miles myself, with no issues whatsoever. I know there are others running 100A setups with no issues. The HV battery's DC to DC converter that charges the 12v battery(takes place of alternator) is capable of well over 200A, fwiw You'll be perfectly fine with the current draw.

As for using the plug, I'm not sure if it connects or not. I don't have a B&O, but I do know many have used the signal from the B&O to go to aftermarket sub amps. Even if you have wire it in without a plug, it should be fairly painless. What you're wanting to do in general should be a walk in the park.

I have a Rockford Fosgate P300-8P under my rear bench running on auto-detect (offset-detect, not audio detect) only. My truck will start right up after 12 days parked (longest it has ever gone unused). I'd say auto detect is not as bad as you'd think for draining batteries.

 

[Toddman45]

I’m on iPhone I did see the black outline which I did assume prob had it.
thanks! Will be doing that when I get the truck.

curious what brand is blue of deadener? Pricy?

It's was just under 28.00 for 10 sheets of 10" x 14.5", now I believe it's 30.00. so not expensive.

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