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B&O guys will need a bypass unit from NavTV or PAC to get around the processing. I have both in stock.
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B&O guys will need a bypass unit from NavTV or PAC to get around the processing. I have both in stock.
That's the opposite of the intent of this thread and it's not needed. Simple speaker swap had pretty good results. I'm hopefully getting one of the original style B&O maverick amps to see if there's actually any objective differences.
 

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So I just swapped the sub (other speakers on their way) with the Dayton in the original post and I'm also underwhelmed. My Maverick is also a late '23 Lariat so I wonder if there really is something different with the amp? Maybe I didn't get it fully sealed? It's too cold and dark to mess with it any more. Moving the fader to the rear definitely didn't increase any bass. With or without the seat up.

When my Skar audio speakers get here, I'll try one of those 6.5" in there to see if it works any better before I put them into the doors. If so, they're like 1/2 the price of the Dayton...

Also, we designed a 3d printable adapter plate which you can find here: https://www.printables.com/model/704624-ford-maverick-bo-sub-adapter-plate-65-in-6x9
It's 19mm to approximate the 3/4" MDF OP used.

Ford Maverick Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution. IMG_2167
 
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So I just swapped the sub (other speakers on their way) with the Dayton in the original post and I'm also underwhelmed. My Maverick is also a late '23 Lariat so I wonder if there really is something different with the amp? Maybe I didn't get it fully sealed? It's too cold and dark to mess with it any more. Moving the fader to the rear definitely didn't increase any bass. With or without the seat up.

When my Skar audio speakers get here, I'll try one of those 6.5" in there to see if it works any better before I put them into the doors. If so, they're like 1/2 the price of the Dayton...

Also, we designed a 3d printable adapter plate which you can find here: https://www.printables.com/model/704624-ford-maverick-bo-sub-adapter-plate-65-in-6x9
It's 19mm to approximate the 3/4" MDF OP used.

IMG_2167.webp
That sucks... I see you have the newer amp too.
 
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I posted this to the original post, and adding here in the hope that everyone reads it.

UPDATE: It appears Ford changed the amp in later Mavericks. Mine is early 22 build. It is labelled B&O on the amp. Later models are not the same. Others are reporting less than satisfactory results with with the new amp. I read that Ford was experiencing blown speakers with the old amp. I had a blown speaker that led to my upgrades. I suspect when Ford and changed the amp, they changed the frequency output too.

Also, I will reiterate that sound quality is a preference thing. What sounds great to me may not sound great to you. However, upgrading the cheap paper speakers in the Maverick regardless of amp, really should only improve quality. And as I stated a couple times before, DO NOT expect miracles.

The good news is. If you followed my example and you're unhappy, you can return the Dayton speaker and put your sub back exactly the way it was. It's completely reversible.

IMG_20231228_154316212.webp


IMG_20231228_154352255.webp
 

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That's the opposite of the intent of this thread and it's not needed. Simple speaker swap had pretty good results. I'm hopefully getting one of the original style B&O maverick amps to see if there's actually any objective differences.
I come from working on a ton of F150s which are very similar to this platform. We've tried everything with regards to working around the B&O system to get better audio quality with failed results. The best method still is to use a bypass unit. Just trying to save people time and aggravation.
 
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I come from working on a ton of F150s which are very similar to this platform. We've tried everything with regards to working around the B&O system to get better audio quality with failed results. The best method still is to use a bypass unit. Just trying to save people time and aggravation.
So you're giving these away for free? If you're "Just trying to save people time and aggravation." I'll give you my address to send me my free unit.
 

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No dice, my orders all get canceled on this. Anyone with the original want to sell or swap?
huh. so, how much were you (trying) to pay for those amps?

I don't think I'm interested in selling mine because it would cost me a lot to get the a2b interface, an amp with dsp, and then if I have a more powerful amp I'd HAVE to upgrade the front components... :LOL:
 

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huh. so, how much were you (trying) to pay for those amps?

I don't think I'm interested in selling mine because it would cost me a lot to get the a2b interface, an amp with dsp, and then if I have a more powerful amp I'd HAVE to upgrade the front components... :LOL:
Thought you upgraded everything? My amp has the dsp, I just don't think it has the power. If we swapped I'd be saving you gas in the long run
 
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Thought you upgraded everything? My amp has the dsp, I just don't think it has the power. If we swapped I'd be saving you gas in the long run
nah, I'm still using my B&O amp for the front. replaced the front components, center channel, installed an amp and sub.

I wonder if you could find a different Ford B&O used amp, cheap? from an F150, Explorer, Bronco etc.
 

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TruckPrius, I've been following this thread since 22Lariat posted. If you do swap out the amp for the old amp, please keep us posted. I have a very early '24, and it has the same amp as you have. Holding off on buying the Dayton speaker for now. I think I'm going to call around to junk yards to see if they have any of the older amps in.
 
 







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