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REGENERATIVE BRAKING

Captain25

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I have read comments about “grabby brakes” and it got me to thinking. I used to have a Chevy Volt and loved the power that the regenerative braking applied to the wheels. My fiancés Tesla is even better because I rarely have to use the brake pedal. I’m currently driving a 2013 Prius while I wait for my Maverick build. The Prius’ regen. braking is not as pronounced.

How “forceful” is the regen. braking in the Maverick? Is it enough to fully stop the truck or is it just a little noticeable?
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bearsfan647

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The jumpy brakes ppl were referring to isn’t a feature of engine breaking, it was a bug.

I believe there was a fix put out for it though?
 

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I have read comments about “grabby brakes” and it got me to thinking. I used to have a Chevy Volt and loved the power that the regenerative braking applied to the wheels. My fiancés Tesla is even better because I rarely have to use the brake pedal. I’m currently driving a 2013 Prius while I wait for my Maverick build. The Prius’ regen. braking is not as pronounced.

How “forceful” is the regen. braking in the Maverick? Is it enough to fully stop the truck or is it just a little noticeable?
It depends on which drive mode your choose. There is much more regenerative braking in "eco" than "normal" or "slippery". Pressing "L" while in "eco" will give you significantly more regenerative braking (some people can almost use this combination as a one-pedal mode).
 

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A buddy who has a Hybrid says, if you push the L button on the dial shifter, it will apply more forceful regen braking. He uses it going down hills. In the Hybrid, L is not a Low gear, like on an old-school automatic. I don't have my Hybrid Mav yet, so I don't know if that's true or not. Perhaps someone who already has their Hybrid will chime in on this.
 

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bwil415

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The drive modes, including "L" just map the throttle, regen, and braking differently. You get the most regen from the regular drive modes with "Eco" which can counterintuitively lead to lower MPGs than "Slippery" in some situations, because it's better to coast with no regen than to lose some of that energy in converting it to battery charge. On eco mode, I find that if you see a stop far enough ahead, you can let off the throttle and it will do a good deal of the stopping, but you have to lean on the brake as you get slower or if you want to stop faster.

Edit: I'll also point out that it's more efficient to use a lower level of regen and a longer stopping distance because of those conversion losses. You could put it in low or ride the brake to keep the green bar completely filled, but it would be less efficient than a slower coasting stop.
 
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Bobbydontchaknow

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The drive modes, including "L" just map the throttle, regen, and braking differently. You get the most regen from the regular drive modes with "Eco" which can counterintuitively lead to lower MPGs than "Slippery" in some situations, because it's better to coast with no regen than to lose some of that energy in converting it to battery charge. On eco mode, I find that if you see a stop far enough ahead, you can let off the throttle and it will do a good deal of the stopping, but you have to lean on the brake as you get slower or if you want to stop faster.
This^
 

rivermaverick

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I use Low for slowing down a lot, remember this does not illuminate the brake lights so touch the brake pedal - you are going to need it to come to a complete stop anyway.

It's the same as downshifting with a manual or using manual mode on an automatic but It's more satisfying because you are regenerating some of your kinetic energy instead just using ORFCO and engine braking.
 
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GPSMan

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You CAN but you shouldn't.

Regen in L (low) is very very strong.
It will slow you to 3 mph in 10 seconds.

BUT IT DOES NOT LIGHT THE BRAKE LAMPS.

Regen brake stops at 3mph and under.
You need brake pads to stop and hold you no matter what.
 

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The grabby brakes is not the same issue as the regen brakes being aggressive. The grabby brakes issue was inconsistent braking given how much pressure you'd put on the brake pedal. Typical behavior is more pressure corresponds with more braking. The bug was you'd put in a bunch of pressure and not activate the brakes fully until you hit a certain spot and then you'd get a TON of braking.
 
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bwil415

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The grabby brakes is not the same issue as the regen brakes being aggressive. The grabby brakes issue was inconsistent braking given how much pressure you'd put on the brake pedal. Typical behavior is more pressure corresponds with more braking. The bug was you'd put in a bunch of pressure and not activate the brakes fully until you hit a certain spot and then you'd get a TON of braking.
I don't know the details of that issue since I've never experienced it, but I always assumed it was something to do with a bad switchover from regen to the hydraulic brakes. You can hear the switch when you're coming to a stop and pass roughly 5mph.
 

GPSMan

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There is/was a software adjustment for the brakes. Newer produced vehicles will probably have the newer software from the factory.

Software DID help my 2022.
 

TyPope

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My Maverick won't be here till September + shipping time. I have a question:

The brake lights don't come on when the truck slows itself with heavy regen?
If this is true, it's going to take some getting used to. We don't use the brake pedal in our Model Y and the brake lights DO come on during regen. It's a pretty good safety feature to ensure that people behind you can tell you are slowing.
 

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The jumpy brakes ppl were referring to isn’t a feature of engine breaking, it was a bug.

I believe there was a fix put out for it though?
The TSB software updates did not entirely fix the problem - just reduced it.
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