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Overlooked Subwoofer Problem(especially with hybrid)(Nerd Stuff)

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rallyshark

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The flat EQ will fix your problem I'm betting, since you have the standard stereo like mine. It was a huge improvement in my case.
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colinl

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I have the high level input enabled. The bass isn't terrible, and maybe I should have tempered my expectations for a .6 cubic ft under seat box and a 10" sub, but I was expecting more. What kind of setup do you have, what is your 500.1 powering? I'm hoping just the flat EQ option through ForSCAN is enough to get me where I want to be with the system.
Yeah, I saw you had a JL 10" 2ohm. Is that a dual coil 2 ohm like a 10w3 and you're wired for 1 ohm? If your load is 2 ohm you're only getting 300w rms out of the amp. If it's a 10W6 (dual 4ohm) it would perform better with more power but I think with 300 it still should be pretty respectable.

I have an Alpine R2-W8D2 wired for 1 ohm in a 0.4 ft3 sealed box. (500w is over the rating, but it hasn't melted yet, and I play it loud.) I'm very pleased with it. People can't believe it's just an 8" but at the same time, I still kind of miss the single 12" I had in a previous vehicle. :ROFLMAO:
 

Chance

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Yeah, I saw you had a JL 10" 2ohm. Is that a dual coil 2 ohm like a 10w3 and you're wired for 1 ohm? If your load is 2 ohm you're only getting 300w rms out of the amp. If it's a 10W6 (dual 4ohm) it would perform better with more power but I think with 300 it still should be pretty respectable.

I have an Alpine R2-W8D2 wired for 1 ohm in a 0.4 ft3 sealed box. (500w is over the rating, but it hasn't melted yet, and I play it loud.) I'm very pleased with it. People can't believe it's just an 8" but at the same time, I still kind of miss the single 12" I had in a previous vehicle. :ROFLMAO:
Oh very nice! I get that, I'm coming from another 10" in my previous vehicle, but it had more power and a larger enclosure so I'm definitely missing some of that bass.

This is the subwoofer that I have: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-i2JSLMRiWtm/p_13692080/JL-Audio-10W1v3-2.html

It's rated for up to 300 watts so I'm right at that with it wired up to 2 ohm to the 500.1. I do wonder if I should have gone with a different sub and wired it to 1 ohm.
 

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Oh very nice! I get that, I'm coming from another 10" in my previous vehicle, but it had more power and a larger enclosure so I'm definitely missing some of that bass.

This is the subwoofer that I have: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-i2JSLMRiWtm/p_13692080/JL-Audio-10W1v3-2.html

It's rated for up to 300 watts so I'm right at that with it wired up to 2 ohm to the 500.1. I do wonder if I should have gone with a different sub and wired it to 1 ohm.
I think the enclosure and amp are well suited to the 10w1.

Oh. I completely forgot one thing. Which gain matching file did you use to setup the key 500.1? I originally used the 0dB but after a month I ran the setup again with -5dB and have used that since. My sub did have a break in period and it started sounding better around that same time, before I redid the setup.
 

Chance

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Rallyshark, your post on another thread (ForScan Flat EQ before key200.4?) was a huge help in finding the flat EQ setting in ForSCAN. I'd never messed with it before, I ordered the same OBDLink cable that you suggested and followed your screenshots, super easy. The flat EQ definitely made a difference in my subwoofer output in the low range, while I don't have booming bass it seems like I'm getting the full frequency spectrum from 20-20000hz. Mid range sounds a little better as well and will probably sound even better after I re-run the auto setup on the Key 200.4. Thanks a ton for your help! Finally (almost) satisfied with my system at this point. 😁

If anyone has any other suggestions for helpful modifications, (audio or otherwise) in ForSCAN I'm all ears now that I'm hacked into the Matrix
 

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rallyshark

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Rallyshark, your post on another thread (ForScan Flat EQ before key200.4?) was a huge help in finding the flat EQ setting in ForSCAN. I'd never messed with it before, I ordered the same OBDLink cable that you suggested and followed your screenshots, super easy. The flat EQ definitely made a difference in my subwoofer output in the low range, while I don't have booming bass it seems like I'm getting the full frequency spectrum from 20-20000hz. Mid range sounds a little better as well and will probably sound even better after I re-run the auto setup on the Key 200.4. Thanks a ton for your help! Finally (almost) satisfied with my system at this point. 😁

If anyone has any other suggestions for helpful modifications, (audio or otherwise) in ForSCAN I'm all ears now that I'm hacked into the Matrix
I'm glad you got your low bass back into the mix now! It is amazing how those last few Hz missing can affect the tunes. I'd definitely re-run the setup on the Key to get the most out of it. Happy tinkering man :D
 

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If I added a Kicker HS10 to my B&O setup, would I want to do the Forscan EQ mod as well, or would I be putting my other speakers in danger that are being driven by the B&O amp?
 

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You guys are obviously into your vehicle sound systems. As a simple and clean-sounding alternative, I mounted my Rockville powered sub on the factory mount behind the passenger seat and connected it to the rear speaker wires near that location. It was fairly inexpensive and sounds pretty good. It doesn't have the power of a Kicker, but with upgraded door speakers and this powered sub, the sound balances out nicely.
Ford Maverick Overlooked Subwoofer Problem(especially with hybrid)(Nerd Stuff) Rockville SS8P
 
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rallyshark

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If I added a Kicker HS10 to my B&O setup, would I want to do the Forscan EQ mod as well, or would I be putting my other speakers in danger that are being driven by the B&O amp?
If running the HS10, I don't know if it would do you much good or not? I say that, because by design, the HS10 isn't going to dig super low anyway and it has a 25hz high pass filter on the sub(if I remember correctly). Maybe someone with one can confirm this. I don't think disabling the EQ will necessarily endanger your factory speakers, since they are crossed over as mids and highs and don't get the low bass signal regardless of the EQ. Your factory sub may poop itself though, if you don't have an ear for hearing distortion(if still hooked up). Again, maybe someone with more knowledge on the B&O can confirm/deny what I'm saying here.
 
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colinl

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If I added a Kicker HS10 to my B&O setup, would I want to do the Forscan EQ mod as well, or would I be putting my other speakers in danger that are being driven by the B&O amp?
no. if you're using the factory b&o amp you don't want flat eq. you need the eq for the front doors and dash tweeters. the b&o sub output has a 35hz high pass. I think that's probably fine for a hs10. it is not going to play 20hz with any significant spl.
 
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rallyshark

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I fully replaced my factory speakers and sub. I guess the more pointed question is, does changing the EQ in forscan remove any of the other filtering like to the tweeters etc?
no. if you're using the factory b&o amp you don't want flat eq. you need the eq for the front doors and dash tweeters. the b&o sub output has a 35hz high pass. I think that's probably fine for a hs10. it is not going to play 20hz with any significant spl.
I could be completely wrong, but aren't the crossover points independent of the EQ settings? I know they would be on most stereo equipment, but Ford is also "special". Of course, it is possible the Ford setup doesn't have crossover settings at all, and is doing everything by EQ alone. I don't have a B&O setup, so what I see in the ACM section of Forscan is likely different than what is seen by B&O owners. In my standard stereo ACM section, there's also a section for designating the speaker type(woofer/tweeter/ etc.). That would be a sign that the crossover points and EQ are two separate things, at least it seems that way to me. Again, I can only speak for what I'm seeing in the standard stereo

If you really wanted to see for sure, you could set the EQ to flat, turn off/disconnect the sub, and play some test tones to see what the other speakers do at lower volume. I believe the tweeters have a capacitor on them. Either way, if you are using an HS10 or other similar subwoofer, there's really no need to set the EQ to flat anyway.

**EDIT**
I really need to pay attention to what I'm posting, but... Obviously, on the non B&O the factory speaker locations(or fronts at the very least) will be seeing low bass after setting the Special EQ to FLAT, so make sure you're running a DSP with crossover to prevent them from detonating, lol. I don't know if the B&O speakers are crossed over or not, but I'd imagine the door speakers may be getting low bass with the setting to FLAT. I believe all of the other speakers have capacitors on them(6db high pass). I hope that clarifies any confusion I may have caused :)
 
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Angel1221

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I could be completely wrong, but aren't the crossover points independent of the EQ settings? I know they would be on most stereo equipment, but Ford is also "special". Of course, it is possible the Ford setup doesn't have crossover settings at all, and is doing everything by EQ alone. I don't have a B&O setup, so what I see in the ACM section of Forscan is likely different than what is seen by B&O owners. In my standard stereo ACM section, there's also a section for designating the speaker type(woofer/tweeter/ etc.). That would be a sign that the crossover points and EQ are two separate things, at least it seems that way to me. Again, I can only speak for what I'm seeing in the standard stereo

If you really wanted to see for sure, you could set the EQ to flat, turn off/disconnect the sub, and play some test tones to see what the other speakers do at lower volume. I believe the tweeters have a capacitor on them. Either way, if you are using an HS10 or other similar subwoofer, there's really no need to set the EQ to flat anyway.
Is it harmful to set the Eq to flat while having an hs10 and non b/o?
 
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rallyshark

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Is it harmful to set the Eq to flat while having an hs10 and non b/o?
As stated in above by me and colonl, I wouldn't do it with that sub. That sub has a high pass filter at 25hz, and can't dig super deep anyway. Your door speakers will also be seeing the low bass too, if you're not running any type of DSP.

I'll sum it up like this: If you're running a proper subwoofer that is capable of bass below 35 hz AND you have DSP/crossover on the other speakers, then the FLAT EQ is a definite must do. If you are running one of the all in one slim subs or the factory B&O sub, don't do it. If you're running a real sub, and everything else is stock with no DSP, you crazy :ROFLMAO:
 
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fordlover3874

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As stated in above by me and colonl, I wouldn't do it with that sub. That sub has a high pass filter at 25hz, and can't dig super deep anyway. Your door speakers will also be seeing the low bass too, if you're not running any type of DSP.

I'll sum it up like this: If you're running a proper subwoofer that is capable of bass below 35 hz AND you have DSP/crossover on the other speakers, then the FLAT EQ is a definite must do. If you are running one of the all in one slim subs or the factory B&O sub, don't do it. If you're running a real sub, and everything else is stock with no DSP, you crazy :ROFLMAO:

Thank you for all the information you have provided. I am about to attempt all this, my question is, what is the consensus among the hybrid owners for what wire to tap for the sub amp remote signal? I will be using the Kicker Key 500.
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