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Oil life not accurate?

MaveLick

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Here it is again; reduced viscosity at operating temps, reduced flashpoint which is most likely the result of too much fuel in the oil,
Which oil did you use? I'm a V6 and V8 person so this is my first turbo. I had not done oil change by myself since I graduated. At 2,700 miles, my drained oil smells very different than the brand new Pennzoil platinum. After running it for 100 miles, the new oil smells like the previously drained oil. Auto part store guy said old oil smells like that. I just could not remember old oil smell.
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Sykotyk

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Though I have a hybrid, my recommendation is to actually pull the dipstick and look at it. Lol

Modern engines and modern oil (especially if you're using synthetic) are so ridiculously better than the stuff we used 20-30-40 years ago. Also these much smaller engines handle oil a lot better. Far less contamination from combustion getting past piston rings, less overall heat (we're still using 4-5-6 quarts of oil in small 2-2.5L engines that give it more time to cycle to the pan and cool), the filters have gotten much better at screening out impurities, as well.

Regardless what the thing tells you, you should check the dipstick once you get above 5k miles. I know some aren't mechanically inclined, but at 5k in a recommended 10k change cycle, you should still be almost translucent light 'black coffee' look. When it's black and you stop being able to see through it? That's about the time you'd be needing to change it anyways.
 

BuddyS

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Ever notice this...
Someone asks a question about the stereo or electronics and it's "RTFM".
Someone asks a question about towing capacities and it's "RTFM".
Someone asks a question about the transmission and it's "RTFM".
Someone asks a question about oil and it's "The manual is wrong.You can't trust Ford."
 

Maverick Grabber

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Even using the best oil and long life filters I never go beyond 7500 and use one of the trip meters as my reminder. My Chrysler 200 runs great at 176,000
 

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MaverRick

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I’ve been taking the advice from the turbo guys on this site and so far I’ve done two oil changes both of which were under 5k miles and Oil Life still showing above 50%. Cheap insurance and I like to see clean oil on the dipstick!
 

Old Man

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Ever notice this...
Someone asks a question about the stereo or electronics and it's "RTFM".
Someone asks a question about towing capacities and it's "RTFM".
Someone asks a question about the transmission and it's "RTFM".
Someone asks a question about oil and it's "The manual is wrong.You can't trust Ford."
Sshhhh! You can't say something like that in an oil forum. My grandfather changed the oil every 500 miles and the water in the radiator every 1,000 miles. His Model A lasted 25 years.
 

yamahaSHO

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You have a hybrid, that engine is MUCH less sensitive to good oil, especially since a percentage of your mileage is electric with the ICE not operating. This is very bad advice for ecoboost owners, direct injection and turbochargers don't do well with extended oil changes, especially Ford ecoboost engines. I've already posted my experience getting a used oil analysis with 5k miles on my oil and it was not good. I would say that the vast majority of owners are operating their ecoboost vehicle under the "severe" category at best.

Here it is again; reduced viscosity at operating temps, reduced flashpoint which is most likely the result of too much fuel in the oil, an inherent problem with turbocharged direct injection engines. Change your oil, it's cheap insurance to keep your ecoboost motor running. This is my third ecoboost 2.0 and both previous engines went well above 100k miles with no issues

UOA 22 Mav.jpg

2,300 miles on my Ranger. I'll be changing oil in the Maverick pretty early. Both will go to an Ester based oil.

 
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A.Bursell

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Clubs
 
I conversed with an engineer who worked on the Chrysler Pentastar engine. That engine calls for either 0w20 or 5w20 depending on application, some applications have an auto stop-start feature, and they also use oil life monitors. So, similar to Ford engines. He told me that their engineering mandate was for the engines to last 110k miles with less than a certain percent of failures (don't remember the number). But he told me in reality, if I wanted it to last as long as possible, to run 5w30, disable the auto stop-start feature, and to go a reasonable number of miles between changes vs. relying on the oil-life monitor.

I tend to think it makes sense. That is what I have done and intend to do on my Ecoboost.
 
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Mikknj

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You have a hybrid, that engine is MUCH less sensitive to good oil, especially since a percentage of your mileage is electric with the ICE not operating. This is very bad advice for ecoboost owners, direct injection and turbochargers don't do well with extended oil changes, especially Ford ecoboost engines. I've already posted my experience getting a used oil analysis with 5k miles on my oil and it was not good. I would say that the vast majority of owners are operating their ecoboost vehicle under the "severe" category at best.

Here it is again; reduced viscosity at operating temps, reduced flashpoint which is most likely the result of too much fuel in the oil, an inherent problem with turbocharged direct injection engines. Change your oil, it's cheap insurance to keep your ecoboost motor running. This is my third ecoboost 2.0 and both previous engines went well above 100k miles with no issues

UOA 22 Mav.jpg
Thanks for the info and your experience with two other echo boosts... Now if I could just find the truth on valve carbon buildup... Is it a problem on the 2.0 the 2.3 all?
 

NoVaJimmy

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Thanks for the info and your experience with two other echo boosts... Now if I could just find the truth on valve carbon buildup... Is it a problem on the 2.0 the 2.3 all?
It is a problem on any vehicle that only has direct injection but especially bad on turbocharged direct injected engines due to much higher cylinder pressures and more blow by. There is a certain member here who claims that ecoboost valve cleaning is "bogus" and that he drove his F150 ecoboost 150k with no carbon buildup but the second gen ecoboost 3.5 has both direct and port injection so he's just misinformed and will be in for a surprise with his Maverick. The 2.0 Ecoboost that comes in the Maverick only has direct injection, no port injection like apparently the newer 2.0 comes with. All it takes to confirm what I'm saying is 10 minutes looking at youtube videos of people cleaning valves in their Ford 2.0 Ecoboost and you will see that no matter what their setup is, catch can, no catch can the valves are still gunked up in as little as 30k miles.
 

Montana

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It is a problem on any vehicle that only has direct injection but especially bad on turbocharged direct injected engines due to much higher cylinder pressures and more blow by. There is a certain member here who claims that ecoboost valve cleaning is "bogus" and that he drove his F150 ecoboost 150k with no carbon buildup but the second gen ecoboost 3.5 has both direct and port injection so he's just misinformed and will be in for a surprise with his Maverick. The 2.0 Ecoboost that comes in the Maverick only has direct injection, no port injection like apparently the newer 2.0 comes with. All it takes to confirm what I'm saying is 10 minutes looking at youtube videos of people cleaning valves in their Ford 2.0 Ecoboost and you will see that no matter what their setup is, catch can, no catch can the valves are still gunked up in as little as 30k miles.
I'm already considering a heat soak at 13k. Maybe every 20k at least. I've seen horror stories from people doing it on high mileage vehicles and having to replace parts from the headers back due to all the crap being pushed out. Like, o2's and cats. Never had that issue but I can see how it would happen with the amount of crap that comes out from a heat soak.

Thoughts on this?
 

NoVaJimmy

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I'm already considering a heat soak at 13k. Maybe every 20k at least. I've seen horror stories from people doing it on high mileage vehicles and having to replace parts from the headers back due to all the crap being pushed out. Like, o2's and cats. Never had that issue but I can see how it would happen with the amount of crap that comes out from a heat soak.

Thoughts on this?
I have to be honest that in 27 years of working on my own vehicles and as an engineer I only know the term heat soak as one thing and it has more to do with degraded engine performance while operating rather than some kind of maintenance procedure so maybe you can elaborate. My first Focust ST that had the 2.0 I tried using CRC GDI intake valve cleaner before every oil change (3-5k) for the first 30k miles and it did nothing at all to seemingly clean the valves. I pulled the intake manifold at 30k just to see what was going on and they were very badly caked up. I stopped using the CRC GDI cleaner and when I pulled the intake again at 60k miles the valves seemed no worse off. I would say that as long as you figure out what oil change interval works best for you and your driving style and geo location and oil that you prefer you should be fine with just checking the valves at 30k and cleaning if needed. It's pretty easy to pull the intake manifold off on the 2.0 and I like how much room there is in the front of the engine bay compared to my Focus and Escape. Other than that I wouldn't really bother with any crazy or special kinds of maintenance.

On a separate note, one thing to consider on the AWD system is regularly replacing your PTU fluid, Ford only recently updated the PTU to be serviceable after they saw a ton of failures and the fluid in the PTU sees a lot of abuse and is cheap and relatively easy to replace. Unfortunately when they go it tends to be a catastrophic failure and often they take out other expensive components when they fail.
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