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Mavster Mechanic

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NOTE: this not to start the debate of Sleep Mode on the Hybrid Mavericks or 12v Dc battery.

For 2 1/2 years I have been plugging my NOCO battery tender to charge the 12vdc battery when the vehicle goes into sleep mode due to not driving the Maverick for 3 or 4 days. I am retired and rarely drive more than 5 to 10 miles 2 or 3 times a week.

I finally added a quick connect to make it easier, even for my wife if she drives. Winter is coming soon in Michigan and the Maverick drains the battery even quicker. So not to start the debate, I just wanted to show others the connector bought on amazon looks factory good. Best to everyone..

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Pulling out fuse #11 for telematics modem solved my battery woes.
No deep sleep ever. But no remote start via telephone either. But I never miss it. I can still remote start from my key fob. Month 39 on the stock battery.
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surfstar

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Pulling out fuse #11 for telematics modem solved my battery woes.
No deep sleep ever. But no remote start via telephone either. But I never miss it. I can still remote start from my key fob. Month 39 on the stock battery.
All that does for me is remove the notifications.

Truck sits for a few days and the interior lights won't be on upon unlock/opening. Confirms deep sleep still happening.
 

HeyBales

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All that does for me is remove the notifications.

Truck sits for a few days and the interior lights won't be on upon unlock/opening. Confirms deep sleep still happening.
Well - deep sleep mode is the extra Battery Saver function of disabling the modem specifically.
So Fuse 11 pulled merely beats them to the punch.

But if it got to the level of deep sleep - the regular Battery Saver functions would already have been going on, deep sleep is the last action done.

Even the keyless entry battery saver of disabling passenger hand sensor is done prior to deep sleep - according to posts.
 

B2000

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Installed mine yesterday and it looks great. On my eco this puts it close to the battery so I connected to the Battery Tender harness with no extensions.

I tried to drill the smallest hole required but did not notice the base part that will touch the side badge is bigger than the plug so I had to rout it a little bigger to get the piece to sit flush. Also the screws are tiny so you may need a smaller phillips screwdriver. If you have a tiny drill bit I would also pre-drill the holes.
 

Kansas

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Looks really professional. Thinking of doing it on my 2024. Any issues drilling the plastic ? Did you use a hole saw or just a regular bit? Pilot holes for mounting screws?
 

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B2000

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Looks really professional. Thinking of doing it on my 2024. Any issues drilling the plastic ? Did you use a hole saw or just a regular bit? Pilot holes for mounting screws?
I used a spade bit but make sure you use one big enough- see my comments above.
 
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JAFO

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I am going to answer a number of peoples questions here and add some new photos.. The install is very easy. There is lots of room behind the side badge on the fender with very little chance of drilling hitting anything. I really like the connector I used and bought several to compare before I installed. It also has a very big waterproof cap to cover plug on the truck when on the road. see photo. Step 1 was to drill a hole using a small cone bit, then since the plug is oval I used a dremel to oval the hole for the plug to fit snug into the side badge. NOTE: as another person mentioned it is necessary to use a tiny drill bit to drill pilot holes for the tiny cheap screws that come with the plug. That's my only gripe about the plug. Step 2 was to connect the adapter cables and fit them into the hood area and then install the screws to hold the plug. Step 3 was to cut my final adapter cable and add two alligator clips positive and negative to clip onto the battery jumper post under hood. I chose to connect to the jumper post since the voltage is then regulated by the Battery Management Module. Zip tie the wires and place electric tape over positive alligator clip just in case it would get pulled off. As for my battery charger I use a NOCO genius 10 placed on a small shelf on my wall and just in case I do an old man stupid and try and drive out without unplugging, I have a small LED light plugged into the same cord adapter that is only on when my charger is plugged in..

I hope this answers many questions. It has proved very convenient for me since we only drive once or twice a week short distances in town being retired. I know others have other fixes that meet their needs that are mentioned here.

When people ask me how I like my Maverick, I tell them honestly it is a love hate relationship, but I wouldn't have anything else at this time or probably not for another 10+ years...
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JAFO

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Looks great. I may try that later. For right now I went cheap and just put a quick connect under the hood. I sneak it out at the seam by the driver's headlight...
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I did that too for awhile but didn't like the plug flapping around, then just opened the hood to plug charger onto battery post. Got tired and went for the look good install.
 

Prickly Pear

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It may be posted elshewhere, but I have not found it. Does anybody know what size thread is used on those charging/jumper posts?
 
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JAFO

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So this keeps from driving around with the noco under the hood which is nice - as a prior thread showed a similar connection thru the badge, and plugging the 120V thru the badge port.
Noco also has operating temp range - I had it hit too cold last winter and not charge.

I like this better - except OP said he used clamps under hood.
I know the little noco integrated eyelets are maybe too small to actually be slid and screwed on to the pos/neg posts under hood, but that would be an improvement.
No my NOCO is mounted on a shelf in the garage, only the the extension cable from the mounted plug with alligator clips on the battery post under hood.
 

dwinch53

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Yep I just used the 12V jumper connection and a ground by the horn. The cheap little charger wall wart came with the both clamps and quick connects with a fused lead...

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How did you fasten the positive wire from charger to the positive post?, thanks
 

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I recently had the same question that @dmopro answered for me. Use two nuts torqued in opposite directions to make a jam nut connection. It's a clever solution and since the currents should not be too high the risk of a loose connection is probably low.
I bought two zinc plated nuts to use on mine but noticed the stud is bare copper (or copper plated something) and figured I'd use stainless hardware to avoid potential corrosion . In the pic above it looks like there might be some corrosion building up, and since those oxides are generally non-conductive if you do use zinc plated nuts you might want to put some grease on them.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jam_nut
 

Bill

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I recently had the same question that @dmopro answered for me. Use two nuts torqued in opposite directions to make a jam nut connection. It's a clever solution and since the currents should not be too high the risk of a loose connection is probably low.
I bought two zinc plated nuts to use on mine but noticed the stud is bare copper (or copper plated something) and figured I'd use stainless hardware to avoid potential corrosion . In the pic above it looks like there might be some corrosion building up, and since those oxides are generally non-conductive if you do use zinc plated nuts you might want to put some grease on them.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jam_nut
What is the nut size.? Thanks,Bill
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