Motocraft SAE OW - 20 discussion....

[Cherokee]

You guyz do know the main reason why full syn is better right ?

It’s simple thing.
roach oil molecules are all different sizes,
Synthetic or engineered oil molecules are all purposely made very small.
they fit very close togethere.
The oil additive package is similar in size.

With all the molecules the same size and very small you get More oil between the bearings,
Hence better heat transfer.
moving heat through an engine is one of the primary functions of of motor oil.

So why would you want to run a blend ?

Sponsored

 

[JDMaverick]

I think we should use real oil and not this “synthetic” stuff.

 

[Oscarcat]

I’m quite aways from my first oil change (currently at 220 miles) and I plan to use a trusted shop that I’ve used for years verses a dealership my mechanic has advised me to use either one of these but I’m leaning more towards the Mobil 1 full synthetic at 7500 miles intervals

Dave O - YES, hybrid specific is the way to go. It has additives that take into account the hybrid ICE runs "cold". I watched my temp guage. It went down from 4 bars to 2 after I got off the freeway and ran mostly in electric mode in stop/go traffic.

 

[wb5oxq]

Did you guys know that most blends are only 10% Synthetic ?

Did you know I got 528,000 trouble free miles out of my Toyota Tacoma 2.7 liter 4 banger on Mobil one Full Synthetic oil and 10,000 mile service intervals. I worked it literally to death. Compression was dropping, ya think !
It lasted almost six years.

Wait for it,,, drum roll~~~~

Did you know my buddy with the same engine doing the same nuclear courier work traded in his five year old Tacoma with just over 500,000 miles still running like new? He used Jiffy lubes cheapest Non synthetic roach oil at 10,000 mile intervals…..

The blends are made to please the old guys so they think they are getting the best of both worlds.

I will run Motorcraft Full Synthetic and change every 5,000 miles. Why ? Because I want to.
And I no longer drive 90,000 to 110,000 miles a year.
Is there anybody out there ?

That is what I do. Full synthetic and 5k miles.

 

[Tbone289]

You guyz do know the main reason why full syn is better right ?

It’s simple thing.
roach oil molecules are all different sizes,
Synthetic or engineered oil molecules are all purposely made very small.
they fit very close togethere.
The oil additive package is similar in size.

Motorcraft "Full Synthetic" is not an "engineered" oil. It is made with Group III base stock. It is highly-refined, hydrocracked "roach oil". It is mineral oil based, not polyalphaolefins (PAO) based as Group IV "engineered" oil is. It is only labelled synthetic because it is legal to market it that way in the US.

Group IV PAO oils are typically labelled "100% Synthetic" in the US.

The "Blend" labelled oils are Group II mineral oils that contain some percentage of Group III mineral oil base stock.

Here is a primer on base stock groups:
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29113/base-oil-groups

The cost of Group III base oils is higher than Group I and II. Group III base oils are considered mineral oils by many technical people because they are derived directly from the refining of crude oil. However, they are considered synthetic base oils by other people for marketing purposes due to the belief that the harsher hydrogen process has created new chemical oil structures that were not present before the process. It has synthesized (created) these new hydrocarbon structures. See the section on synthetic base oils in this book.

 

[Dave O]

Dave O - YES, hybrid specific is the way to go. It has additives that take into account the hybrid ICE runs "cold". I watched my temp guage. It went down from 4 bars to 2 after I got off the freeway and ran mostly in electric mode in stop/go traffic.

Thank you for your comments Eric

 

[Parts Russ]

Interesting. I just looked up the oil for my 23 hybrid. According to the Ford workshop manual it is full synthetic and it quotes the Motorcraft full synthetic part number (CXO-0W20-LFS6). I also looked in the Oils reference manual and there is no mention of having a synthetic blend. Now that having been said its possible it is a new product recently released But there isnt a part number on any of the Ford systems or new release bullitins

 

[KevCuRaoi]

On my last XL oil change at the dealership, , the service technician listed * ow - 20 BLENDED SYNTHETIC OIL * on my report....after calling the service manager when I got home he assured me that * FULL SYNTHETIC OIL * was used....after reading a post on this forum someone posted that AII motocraft OW -20 is * FULL SYNTHETIC OIL *....this may not be accurate and I still don't know if I am using the right oil for my 2023 maverick.....

Ford/Motorcraft used to offer 0w20 synthetic blend. Currently, they only offer full synthetic 0w20.

 

[d7602002]

They put 5w-30 in mine because it's the EcoBoost. It's a blend, and I change it six months or 5k miles whichever comes first. And even a long time ago when manufacturers recommended changing it after 3,000 miles or 3 months I only probably hit the mileage a handful of times. So I'm usually on the month intervals

 

[Ron Neal]

You guyz do know the main reason why full syn is better right ?

It’s simple thing.
roach oil molecules are all different sizes,
Synthetic or engineered oil molecules are all purposely made very small.
they fit very close togethere.
The oil additive package is similar in size.

With all the molecules the same size and very small you get More oil between the bearings,
Hence better heat transfer.
moving heat through an engine is one of the primary functions of of motor oil.

So why would you want to run a blend ?

Appreciate your enthusiasm for full synthetic oil but if my owners manual says I can use a bend or conventional oil that meets its specifications then thats what I will use. Generally speaking for my needs synthetic oil is not worth the extra cost.
In over 50 years of driving I have never had a oil related issue due to its quality or physical properties, and yes there is always a first time and if that ever happens I'll just sell or trade it.

 

[d7602002]

Appreciate your enthusiasm for full synthetic oil but if my owners manual says I can use a bend or conventional oil that meets its specifications then thats what I will use. Generally speaking for my needs synthetic oil is not worth the extra cost.
In over 50 years of driving I have never had a oil related issue due to its quality or physical properties, and yes there is always a first time and if that ever happens I'll just sell or trade it.

I agree. I can look back at the problems I've had with cars like I know once I had an issue with a Chevy because of the coolant they used that red stuff. I had a transmission go on a Plymouth Voyager. I had a strut go on a Camry. I had to replace most of the exhaust pipes on a Camry cuz it cracked. I look at all the issues I've had on all the cars I owned over the last 40 years and none of them had any problem pertaining to the engine oil I used. I.E. conventional, blended, or synthetic

 

[Cherokee]

Appreciate your enthusiasm for full synthetic oil but if my owners manual says I can use a bend or conventional oil that meets its specifications then thats what I will use. Generally speaking for my needs synthetic oil is not worth the extra cost.
In over 50 years of driving I have never had a oil related issue due to its quality or physical properties, and yes there is always a first time and if that ever happens I'll just sell or trade it.

From post #19,,,,
The two paragraphs below support your statement completely.

Did you know I got 528,000 trouble free miles out of my Toyota Tacoma 2.7 liter 4 banger on Mobil one Full Synthetic oil and 10,000 mile service intervals. I worked it literally to death. Compression was dropping, ya think ! It lasted almost six years.

Did you know my buddy with the same engine doing the same nuclear courier work traded in his five year old Tacoma with just over 500,000 miles still running like new ?
He used Jiffy lubes cheapest Non synthetic roach oil at 10,000 mile intervals…..

And his engine was stronger than mine. The only thing we could assume is my right foot was less disciplined. :'P

People seem to always miss my point. It's because I'm certifiably cwazy I thimk.
My point was the roach oil seemed to be just as good as the Mobil 1 full syn.

I will run synthetic because of It's flow properties, I'm concerned with the two very small screen filters in or on the Turbo, Still trying to find out about those. Very few people seem aware or concerned with them clogging or reducing pass through and turbo life span.

 

[Chopperbobc]

Thank you all for your comments.... I learned a lot.... the intent of my post was to make sure our members get the proper oil for their Mavericks when it is done at their dealership....

 

[Driven]

Af blue....once the dealership takes the maverick into the shop, I don't have any control over what happens....

I was a mechanic for yrs but now I’m 70 can’t lay under cars to easy anymore, I walk into Walmart buy 0w20 Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 filter pay at the automotive counter tell them I want them to do the oil change with my oil and filter, they charge me $27 bucks and I watch them do it, it ain’t rocket science but I know what u mean by not trusting the dealer sometimes, or for that matter trusting anyone, people use to take pride in their work

 

[Ozarkbeard]

Af blue....once the dealership takes the maverick into the shop, I don't have any control over what happens....

That's why I take my truck to a local mechanic I've known for years and trust. It's his shop, knows his local customers and he takes pride in his work.

I keep all receipts in case I need a warranty issue fixed at a dealer. But dealers have always been a last choice for me.

Sponsored