Maintenance and What Breaks Warranty?

[Funfishhunter]

So I am at 20K miles, 2024 XLT Hybrid

1. So far I have just changed my engine and cabin air filters. Will using a K&N engine air filter actually void my warranty?
2. I am not getting near the average mileage that is advertised.

1. Should I check spark plug gap?
2. Should I clean the MAF, will this void the warranty?
3. Should I clean the MAP, will this void the warranty?
4. Should I clear the driver memory log, and can I do it the old way of taking off the positive terminal waiting 25 minutes, turn on the key to start and leave on for 15 minutes, or will this work on a hybrid, will this void the warranty?
5. Should I clean the intake of carbon? Will this void the warranty?
6. How can I do the "Italian Tune Up"? I read that you need to get your engine to 2000-3000 RPM for about a 20 mile drive. How can I get higher RPMS? Put it in trailer mode?

3. Would driving without traction control give more or less miles?
4. I purchased the extended warranty, the suspension behind all 4 tires are burnt orange rusty, I will be taking my truck in for the latest recall, is it part of the warranty for them to fix the rust issue?
5. Will increasing my tire pressure help with milage?
6. Should I get a transmission flush and new filter at this milage?

Any suggestions other than the ones listed would be appreciated!

PS I changed my cabin air filter with a carbon one today, It looks like they forgot to put the arm that you are suppose to unclip on the lower right side of the glove box, or did they just discontinue it after 2023?

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[ZABSMAV]

Never do a transmission "flush". Just a drain and fill. The suspension parts are raw metal. It is normal for them to develop surface rust. Have you not ever seen a 30 year old undercarriage of any Ford truck or Bronco? It absolutely has no effect on the structural integrity of the suspension. Purely cosmetic and normal. Not a warranty item. Run the tires at exactly the recommended tire pressure, which for the hybrid Maverick is 35 PSI cold. Ford eliminated the damper on the glove box. They determined there was no need for it and it saved a few bucks profit for them on each vehicle sold.

 

[Big-Foot]

Wow Ray! That’s a heckuva list you have there.
These are the comments of an SAE (yes that’s right) certified Journeyman Mechanic and retired engineer that still works on building / restoring cars.
Take my comments for what they may be worth to you. Not interested in keyboard wars with anyone else.
—
1) K&N Air Filters, when not cleaned and oiled properly, are actually worse for power & economy and they ”can” actually poison your MAF with oil droplets.
2.1) I’d say to wait until your engine has maybe 50k miles or more before you consider touching the spark plugs.
2.2) I just worked on a 170k mile Toyota Corolla the other week and its MAF had never been touched. I cleaned it with the appropriate spray over a white linen cloth, and there was literally nothing in the cloth other than very mild discoloration. Leave it alone as you may cause more harm than good.
2.3) Cleaning MAP sensor is something I have never done. They will set a code when they are bad, and you replace them.
2.4) I have no idea why you would want to do this.
2.5) Your intake, at 20k miles should be literally in new condition. Could you clean it? Yes. Should you? I would advise against it for numerous reasons.
2.6) Blowing the Carbon Out of- as they used to call it in the old days, is simply not needed in today’s engines that use lead-free fuels and have better cylinder sealing and oil control.
3) Traction control only impacts your driving dynamics when the stability control system detects a wheel speed differential that is uncharacteristic of your speed, steering angle, throttle input, etc. turning TC off will do nothing during normal driving conditions.
4) i have no input here.
5) I have run as high as 42psi cold and find no difference in economy from running 37psi. Running lower pressures than 37 will likely give you less fuel economy, but doubt you will see more than a 1mpg difference over 34-35. This also depends on how your truck is loaded. The heavier loads will require greater cold pressures. You can go up to the pressure labeled on your sidewalls (those are cold pressures). The Goodyears on my truck will go up to 50psi cold.
6) These are for the most part sealed units. Unless there’s a leak or you have put your truck through an extreme workout over that 20k - leave it alone.
—
other suggestions
Don‘t accelerate hard.
Driving over 70mph sustained will be a hit on your fuel economy. I’m on a long trip now (over 1k miles) to my granddaughter’s graduation and have experimented some with Slippery Mode and Hypermiling. I seem to have gotten 1 more mpg so am running 33mpg on the highway running 75 with 37psi in the tires (41 did nothing better)..
Oil - Mobil-1 Hybrid 0w20 every 5k miles max. 3500 miles if you are running hard or loaded heavily.
Enjoy your truck and don’t worry so much.
Hope this helps!

 

[inline_five]

If you aren't getting at or above advertised mileage the most probable issue is the driver and how they drive.

Hybrids work best when driven with energy management in mind for city driving. Slow acceleration, don't keep speed up if you see a red light, etc.

In addition, for highway driving, speed is super important. You'll want to stay at 70 or below to maximize MPGs. Above 70 mine really drop off quickly.

I just made a post here where I got 42+ mpg on my 170 mile highway drive (this includes a 5% reduction in calculated mileage). The city drive I made after that, around 20 miles, I got 56.5.

Side note, K&N filters are terrible for your vehicle. They let silicon in to the motor which increases wear on the engine. Stick with high quality aftermarket or Ford Motorcraft.

 

[commadorebob]

Important Caveat: I work with computers for a living....

The K&N filter will not void the warranty. However, it actually sucks at dust prevention. Given that you own a hybrid, I wouldn't bother. The whole point of the hybrid is to reduce the amount of time you run the engine, so using a loose air filter shouldn't matter in the long run, IMO.

Surface rust shouldn't be an issue. You live in Texas and likely don't have to deal with road salt, so you should be fine. In fact, surface rust is actually good for it, as it provides a protective layer that prevents deeper rust.

Depending on what you modify, the modification itself would not be under warranty, but that will not void the rest of the truck. Obviously, if you put in a third-party suspension, Ford has no obligation to fix it. However, checking the spark plugs and reinstalling them won't affect the warranty. I personally wouldn't bother. When I bought my Maverick, I got rid of a Saturn that had 220,000 miles; it still had the factory plugs. It was only the transmission that was giving up the ghost.

The best way to improve gas mileage is to drive conservatively. Even EVs will burn through their batteries more quickly with hard acceleration and speeding. I generally get 15% better gas mileage than my wife does when driving the same vehicle because she is more aggressive with her acceleration, speed, and braking. Same exact vehicle; just a different driving style makes that big of a difference.

 

[Bdesign]

you can buy a glove-box dampener on amazon. tailgate dampener is a better

option to get

 

[betlouboo]

So I am at 20K miles, 2024 XLT Hybrid

1. So far I have just changed my engine and cabin air filters. Will using a K&N engine air filter actually void my warranty?
2. I am not getting near the average mileage that is advertised.

1. Should I check spark plug gap?
2. Should I clean the MAF, will this void the warranty?
3. Should I clean the MAP, will this void the warranty?
4. Should I clear the driver memory log, and can I do it the old way of taking off the positive terminal waiting 25 minutes, turn on the key to start and leave on for 15 minutes, or will this work on a hybrid, will this void the warranty?
5. Should I clean the intake of carbon? Will this void the warranty?
6. How can I do the "Italian Tune Up"? I read that you need to get your engine to 2000-3000 RPM for about a 20 mile drive. How can I get higher RPMS? Put it in trailer mode?

3. Would driving without traction control give more or less miles?
4. I purchased the extended warranty, the suspension behind all 4 tires are burnt orange rusty, I will be taking my truck in for the latest recall, is it part of the warranty for them to fix the rust issue?
5. Will increasing my tire pressure help with milage?
6. Should I get a transmission flush and new filter at this milage?

Any suggestions other than the ones listed would be appreciated!

PS I changed my cabin air filter with a carbon one today, It looks like they forgot to put the arm that you are suppose to unclip on the lower right side of the glove box, or did they just discontinue it after 2023?

Do you know how to drive a hybrid? There's a trick to it to get it in electric mode....I avg 46.7 mpg

 

[Finnster]

So I am at 20K miles, 2024 XLT Hybrid

1. So far I have just changed my engine and cabin air filters. Will using a K&N engine air filter actually void my warranty?
2. I am not getting near the average mileage that is advertised.

1. Should I check spark plug gap?
2. Should I clean the MAF, will this void the warranty?
3. Should I clean the MAP, will this void the warranty?
4. Should I clear the driver memory log, and can I do it the old way of taking off the positive terminal waiting 25 minutes, turn on the key to start and leave on for 15 minutes, or will this work on a hybrid, will this void the warranty?
5. Should I clean the intake of carbon? Will this void the warranty?
6. How can I do the "Italian Tune Up"? I read that you need to get your engine to 2000-3000 RPM for about a 20 mile drive. How can I get higher RPMS? Put it in trailer mode?

Item #1 - Put your oem air filter back on the truck!
The Atkinson cycle hybrid engine is finely tuned for efficiency from the factory! Don't mess it up.

Item #2 - Start a separate thread asking why your MPG's are so low, and explaining what mileage your hybrid is currently obtaining.
If you are then still unsatisfied about your truck's performance or operation - Take it to the dealer to have them investigate.

Your list 1-6:
Please do none of these! The hybrid needs none of them, won't be helped by any of them, and you could easily do some damage.
I'm sorry for being so blunt, but you did ask.

3. Would driving without traction control give more or less miles?
4. I purchased the extended warranty, the suspension behind all 4 tires are burnt orange rusty, I will be taking my truck in for the latest recall, is it part of the warranty for them to fix the rust issue?
5. Will increasing my tire pressure help with milage?
6. Should I get a transmission flush and new filter at this milage?

Any suggestions other than the ones listed would be appreciated!

PS I changed my cabin air filter with a carbon one today, It looks like they forgot to put the arm that you are suppose to unclip on the lower right side of the glove box, or did they just discontinue it after 2023?

#3 - I'm not sure.
#4 - Ask service advisor when you bring the truck in.
#5- increasing tire pressure may help. I personally wouldn't go above 40 psi.
#6 - No to a transmission flush! But Yes to a transmission drain and fill at your current mileage!(IMO)

Suggestions:
My maverick hybrid's gas mileage is most affected by vehicle speed, throttle input/driving style, and outside air temperature!
Therefore, stay off the interstate as much as possible, drive smoothly, and use cruise control.
I personally drive almost exclusively in "normal" mode. I haven't seen any advantage to econ, etc.

 

[ZABSMAV]

The Maverick tail

you can buy a glove-box dampener on amazon. tailgate dampener is a better

option to get

The Maverick tailgate weighs all of 45 lbs. Hardly necessary.

 

[Cherokee]

you can buy a glove-box dampener on amazon. tailgate dampener is a better

option to get

My glove box door weighs what ?
A half a pound, a damper, no thanks.

My tailgate is super light. No need for that.
Better solution is to buy a couple of five pound weights and do some curls.
Or do more twelve ounce curls at your local watering hole.
:XD

 

[pigsareus]

Do you know how to drive a hybrid? There's a trick to it to get it in electric mode....I avg 46.7 mpg

I never do anything - anything - special to get it into electric mode and I average the same MPG. I just drive the darn thing, I never even think of trying to improve mileage.

 

[Idahomaverick60]

Wow Ray! That’s a heckuva list you have there.
These are the comments of an SAE (yes that’s right) certified Journeyman Mechanic and retired engineer that still works on building / restoring cars.
Take my comments for what they may be worth to you. Not interested in keyboard wars with anyone else.
—
1) K&N Air Filters, when not cleaned and oiled properly, are actually worse for power & economy and they ”can” actually poison your MAF with oil droplets.
2.1) I’d say to wait until your engine has maybe 50k miles or more before you consider touching the spark plugs.
2.2) I just worked on a 170k mile Toyota Corolla the other week and its MAF had never been touched. I cleaned it with the appropriate spray over a white linen cloth, and there was literally nothing in the cloth other than very mild discoloration. Leave it alone as you may cause more harm than good.
2.3) Cleaning MAP sensor is something I have never done. They will set a code when they are bad, and you replace them.
2.4) I have no idea why you would want to do this.
2.5) Your intake, at 20k miles should be literally in new condition. Could you clean it? Yes. Should you? I would advise against it for numerous reasons.
2.6) Blowing the Carbon Out of- as they used to call it in the old days, is simply not needed in today’s engines that use lead-free fuels and have better cylinder sealing and oil control.
3) Traction control only impacts your driving dynamics when the stability control system detects a wheel speed differential that is uncharacteristic of your speed, steering angle, throttle input, etc. turning TC off will do nothing during normal driving conditions.
4) i have no input here.
5) I have run as high as 42psi cold and find no difference in economy from running 37psi. Running lower pressures than 37 will likely give you less fuel economy, but doubt you will see more than a 1mpg difference over 34-35. This also depends on how your truck is loaded. The heavier loads will require greater cold pressures. You can go up to the pressure labeled on your sidewalls (those are cold pressures). The Goodyears on my truck will go up to 50psi cold.
6) These are for the most part sealed units. Unless there’s a leak or you have put your truck through an extreme workout over that 20k - leave it alone.
—
other suggestions
Don‘t accelerate hard.
Driving over 70mph sustained will be a hit on your fuel economy. I’m on a long trip now (over 1k miles) to my granddaughter’s graduation and have experimented some with Slippery Mode and Hypermiling. I seem to have gotten 1 more mpg so am running 33mpg on the highway running 75 with 37psi in the tires (41 did nothing better)..
Oil - Mobil-1 Hybrid 0w20 every 5k miles max. 3500 miles if you are running hard or loaded heavily.
Enjoy your truck and don’t worry so much.
Hope this helps!

People always (accurately) mention hard acceleration as bad for milage. With the hybrid I have never seen someone comment on not flying up to stop sign/light and slamming on the brakes.. I assume (?) Mavericks have regenerative braking. Stop lightly just like accelerating lightly. It will convert maximum kinetic energy back to stored electrical energy.

 

[Big-Foot]

People always (accurately) mention hard acceleration as bad for milage. With the hybrid I have never seen someone comment on not flying up to stop sign/light and slamming on the brakes.. I assume (?) Mavericks have regenerative braking. Stop lightly just like accelerating lightly. It will convert maximum kinetic energy back to stored electrical energy.

Yes, the Maverick Hybrid does indeed have regenerative braking. There is a Braking Coach that you can turn on in the center dash display and it will tell you how much energy (percentage) in your braking, was returned to the Hybrid Battery. Yes, braking too hard will put more wear on your service brakes and recover less energy to the system. You can also toggle lower gearing mode to really maximize this, but you have to remember to toggle it back off when getting back up to speed. It is the button in the center of the shifter dial.

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