How many watts in B&O system and standard audio system?

[Bigred]

I don't worry about that much anymore.

I was a Live Reinforcement sound man for 14 years. Started hearing a ringing sound and could never get the mixer to find that damn flute. It went to hell from there.

First it was 11 years working on an Air Force flight line, never needed any stinkin' hearing protection. Then I learned the only way to set up a main stage speaker cluster was to stick your head in the throats and see if it was working. Now it's 24/7/365 ringing, 80% loss in left ear, 40% loss in right ear. It doesn't matter anymore how good the sound system is, the hearing aids don't capture 95% of it and are all a POS.

So if it turns on and I can get the volume to cover the road noise, I'm good.

Pretty much the same here. Can’t hear any high notes or tweeters. Audiologists said i’d be wasting money on hearing aids.

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[TruckPrius]

It's just crazy how far off the marketing materials are from what was actually sold to me.

Would really like to know the exact RMS wattage being sent to each channel, particularly to the paper 6x9" "sub".

Is there a spec sheet for the amp anywhere?

 

[colinl]

@Ford Motor Company

Please help me understand math. P = I x V => P = 16 x 13.8 = 220.8 ....

What I was sold:

My amp:

Google isn't finding anything on those amp part numbers but if we take 13.8v times 16A we get about 220w which seems a lot more feasible than 660w in the marketing materials.

the b&o 6x9 has very low output since it's infinite baffled. after you upgrade your door speakers you can barely notice any output from it.

if you haven't done that yet, definitely start with a good set of components up front efficient to work with 50w RMS and you'll be pleased with the results.

then go get whatever sub fits your budget and output desired.

 

[bgn]

Google isn't finding anything on those amp part numbers but if we take 13.8v times 16A we get about 220w which seems a lot more feasible than 660w in the marketing materials.

the b&o 6x9 has very low output since it's infinite baffled. after you upgrade your door speakers you can barely notice any output from it.

if you haven't done that yet, definitely start with a good set of components up front efficient to work with 50w RMS and you'll be pleased with the results.

then go get whatever sub fits your budget and output desired.

Picked up a set of the Focals for $130 that I believe you have. Any tips you're able to share on getting them mounted?

Not sure if I'll go any further than that, but it should be a good upgrade like you mentioned.

 

[Poultrygeist]

I couldn't find any information of how many watts are in the premium B&O speakers let alone the standard speakers. Anyone know?

The number of watts is not so important unless you know the efficiency of the speakers. In my home system I can drive highly efficient speakers to insane levels with a single watt. And as you can see in the statement below all watts are not created equal as the first watt is the most impactful. 90db is the speaker rating used as the example and while some car speakers are rated that high most fall in the mid 80db range. Further complicating matters is that car amps in the real world don't come close to the actual wattage they are said to produce.

"90dB=1W/1M, one watt would produce 90dB at reference. If we increase the wattage to 2 watts (doubled) our speaker would produce 93dB at reference. Doubling this again to 4 watts would produce 96dB at reference. 6dB for every doubling of distance."

 

[colinl]

Picked up a set of the Focals for $130 that I believe you have. Any tips you're able to share on getting them mounted?

Not sure if I'll go any further than that, but it should be a good upgrade like you mentioned.

Yes. When you remove the factory tweeter, you have 3 options to install the Focal tweeter. It is not a drop-in; almost nothing is, so no big deal. The tweeter has a trim ring that allows it to swivel a bit so you can mount it flush and aim it at an angle instead of straight up into the windshield like the factory tweeters.

1. You can dremel a hole in the grille itself and put them right on top. There's a few pics in this forum of people doing that, I want to say one of them used Rockford Fosgate components if you want to search for that. Probably the best sound quality, and definitely does not look stock, if you want that.

2. You can remove the stock tweeter from the ring-shaped mount and dremel some material away to let the Focal tweeter fit with the angled trim ring. Then you aim it like described above and it's hidden under the grille and looks stock.

3. You can do what I did and use a very small flathead screwdriver (eyeglass screw sized) to pry the angled trim ring off the tweeter. Then it's a bit small to fit in the factory plastic tweeter mount, but this is good; put some double-sided tape on it, and angle it as desired, then stick it in place. The main reason I didn't cut is actually not out of a desire to reinstall the stock tweeters. It's so that I have the most options in the future for placement - you can't add the material back after you cut the stock tweeter mount.

 

[TruckPrius]

Do you have the part number for your B&O amp pictured here? Mine is completely different? Harman branded, but not B&O like yours and completely different "fins" or lack thereof on mine...

 

[colinl]

Do you have the part number for your B&O amp pictured here? Mine is completely different? Harman branded, but not B&O like yours and completely different "fins" or lack thereof on mine...

wow. I have never seen an amp like yours - my other Mav had the same amp as my pic shows. I am sure you're not unique but not sure if they have permanently switched or yours is just due to a temporary materials shortage... or what other explanation there could be.

I think the part number is probably on the back of mine, so I'll have to unbolt it and may not get to that until this weekend. (but anyone else with the style I have could take a look, also.)

 

[Delzona]

Pretty much the same here. Can’t hear any high notes or tweeters. Audiologists said i’d be wasting money on hearing aids.

I wear hearing aids (26 years in the AF working the flightline) and I agree that hearing aids only help a bit, they certainly don't capture music all that well. Personally I'm glad I have them because they do help me hear people talking to me.

 

[bgn]

Yes. When you remove the factory tweeter, you have 3 options to install the Focal tweeter. It is not a drop-in; almost nothing is, so no big deal. The tweeter has a trim ring that allows it to swivel a bit so you can mount it flush and aim it at an angle instead of straight up into the windshield like the factory tweeters.

1. You can dremel a hole in the grille itself and put them right on top. There's a few pics in this forum of people doing that, I want to say one of them used Rockford Fosgate components if you want to search for that. Probably the best sound quality, and definitely does not look stock, if you want that.

2. You can remove the stock tweeter from the ring-shaped mount and dremel some material away to let the Focal tweeter fit with the angled trim ring. Then you aim it like described above and it's hidden under the grille and looks stock.

3. You can do what I did and use a very small flathead screwdriver (eyeglass screw sized) to pry the angled trim ring off the tweeter. Then it's a bit small to fit in the factory plastic tweeter mount, but this is good; put some double-sided tape on it, and angle it as desired, then stick it in place. The main reason I didn't cut is actually not out of a desire to reinstall the stock tweeters. It's so that I have the most options in the future for placement - you can't add the material back after you cut the stock tweeter mount.

Thanks. Got them in today. They're hefty!

I'm not quite sure what to do with the crossover. Do I need a different harness than the 72-5602? The tweeters I got Hoel harnesses on order.

The plastic rings also seem to be too little...and the instructions say to remove the inside tabs for 6.75" speakers, but these are 6.5".

 

[derichio02]

Do you have the part number for your B&O amp pictured here? Mine is completely different? Harman branded, but not B&O like yours and completely different "fins" or lack thereof on mine...

My 23 Lariat Hybrid looks like this too

 

[TruckPrius]

My 23 Lariat Hybrid looks like this too

Thanks for confirming.. makes me feel a tad better.

I'd really like to see a manual or specs on this thing so I know what I actually bought and what the difference is to the prior version. As far as I can tell, no part of my system is actually B&O so far I understand Harman is the parent company, but still..

 

[colinl]

Thanks. Got them in today. They're hefty!

I'm not quite sure what to do with the crossover. Do I need a different harness than the 72-5602? The tweeters I got Hoel harnesses on order.

The plastic rings also seem to be too little...and the instructions say to remove the inside tabs for 6.75" speakers, but these are 6.5".

At this point I have to assume that your amp works the same as mine.

It should, and if it does, you don't need the crossover because the amp has appropriate crossovers in it and bi amps the tweeter and mid.

I used whatever 6.5 mounting bracket that crutchfield shows for the Maverick front doors. I think it does have extra tabs but it's intuitive what you need to remove.

 

[bgn]

At this point I have to assume that your amp works the same as mine.

It should, and if it does, you don't need the crossover because the amp has appropriate crossovers in it and bi amps the tweeter and mid.

I used whatever 6.5 mounting bracket that crutchfield shows for the Maverick front doors. I think it does have extra tabs but it's intuitive what you need to remove.

Thank you. Took the tabs off and they fit properly. But now the screws that came with the speakers are not wide enough for the bracket. Anyway...not a big deal.

Did you drill the inner door plastic to run the door speaker harness to the speaker? Or did you pinch the wire between the speaker and the plastic?

Unsure of what I should do.

 

[TruckPrius]

you don't need the crossover because the amp has appropriate crossovers in it and bi amps the tweeter and mid.

This is part of why I am looking for specs/manuals etc on what the B&O-ish amp does. When you say "bi amps" you mean it has a discrete line to both the tweeter and the woofer that are already frequency filtered and an additional crossover would be pointless right?

I saw this diagram so I think this is the case https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/b-o-wiring-and-remote.13354/#post-264943

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